Running in warm water?

[TeakFreak]

Newbie here 👋
Ordered first RC. (Zonda)
water temps in Florida lakes are 90 degrees. With running temperatures are so critical, how do you deal with this?
Also:
Salt Water is a little cooler. Does the salt water do more harm than it?s worth?
thanks

[koen]

if you run the boat in salt water you have to flush the motor and esc with fresh water(the cooling) also everything on the outside of the hull and flex shafts ,and if everything is rinsed let dry and then spray with WD 40 for the water temp should be no problem watch out for big props

[Fluid]

When I ran in 90* water I had to prop down a bit for heat racing compared to 55* water. Some fellow racers did not, and many of them eventually burned up. It depends on how aggressive your setup is, if it’s relatively mild in winter you may get away with the same setup in summer. This can be a problem when copying someone else’s winter setup and then running it in your boat in hot water.


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[TeakFreak]

When I ran in 90* water I had to prop down a bit for heat racing compared to 55* water. Some fellow racers did not, and many of them eventually burned up. It depends on how aggressive your setup is, if it?s relatively mild in winter you may get away with the same setup in summer. This can be a problem when copying someone else?s winter setup and then running it in your boat in hot water.


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As mentioned I?m new to this but what I think you guys are talking about is props that are turning less rpm?s when water temps are up?
If so then running less aggressively would make accomplish a similar result?

[Bande1]

the stock props on it should be mild enough to not worry. you always monitor your temps first and foremost. that means a short 30-60 second run, bring it in, and put a temp gun on the motor, esc, batteries to make sure everything is under 130f or there about. mild and aggressive props refers to size and pitch of them. Usually stock props are fairly mild enough not to be a big concern. although they can be I suppose. you have to do your own monitoring.

[jkflow]

Yes, it's an issue but as with anything, simply get a temp gun and check your temps.
Salt vs fresh makes really no difference, flush the system with fresh water, pull the shaft and grease it up. If your boat floods you have to lube your motor bearings but that is true for any water type, with saltwater you just have faster reactions i.e. days instead of weeks.
WD40 is an electronics and bearing killer, I wouldn't get it near my RC stuff.

Been running in this for years, mainly brackish waters. Water is not flat enough in salty areas, at least not here in Tampa.

[Bande1]

Yes, it's an issue but as with anything, simply get a temp gun and check your temps.
Salt vs fresh makes really no difference, flush the system with fresh water, pull the shaft and grease it up. If your boat floods you have to lube your motor bearings but that is true for any water type, with saltwater you just have faster reactions i.e. days instead of weeks.
WD40 is an electronics and bearing killer, I wouldn't get it near my RC stuff.

Been running in this for years, mainly brackish waters. Water is not flat enough in salty areas, at least not here in Tampa.

yeah get after run oil for your bearings. or RC bearing specific oil.

[TeakFreak]

Thanks that’s good to know. While waiting for the boat I’m getting supplies like tape, marine grade grease etc…..
I never heard of that RC oil but I’ll look into it.
Isn’t their a spay similar to wd40 but it’s for electronics?

[Bande1]

https://rotorron.com/product/shag-rc-motor-bearing-oil/

https://www.rcmart.com/Bearings-Oil

[Panchothedog]

Fluid is not talking about props turning fewer rpm. He is taking about using a smaller diameter prop so less heat is generated because you can't scrub away as much heat running in warm water. Where I live, in San Diego, we have a dedicated model boat pond. It is fed by the Pacific Ocean. I have been running there since 1987. If you are diligent about fresh water flush your equipment will last just as long. A cheap 1 gallon garden sprayer will get the job done. I've had many boats completely fill up with water. If you flush and lube properly outcome will be the same as a fresh water dunking.

[TeakFreak]

So holding the boat stationary in a swimming pool and running it should be a good flush of the internals.
A light mist with a hose to the bilge……..
Sun/hairdryer dry
oil/grease
good to go ��

[jkflow]

Boat in pool is always a bad idea, don't do it and don't get started. Simply get yourself a small water bottle and some extra hose, end of story. At least you won't launch it across the pool by accident and don't spoil your pool with grease etc.

These are not boats for a pool, and chlorine is as bad as salt.

[Panchothedog]

Take the garden sprayer, pumped up with pressure and hold it against the water outlet on your hull and pull the trigger. It will force fresh water backwards through the cooling system, flushing out the salt water. Then spray off the hardware. Use your pool for swimming.