motor cuts out during wot

[paulejr]

Well, huh. Bear with me now, someone suggested in a thread to shut it off to see if it happened again. if not, then to step it up to the next level and try again until i get to the level that it shuts off then back off one level, or how would you go about testing the threshold for the LVC? start at the minimum of 2.34 per cell? If it shuts off at that level, then what?
As far as batteries go, I not racing so i don't need to spend premium money on batteries that are just going to be used for sport fun?
What would you recommend for batteries for non-racing application? i have a pair of G2 that go in my AVL for test and tweak, (because they is the only ones i could get to fit in the nose ...) eventually moving to Admirals' that i already use on the Zonda. Spendy....If I can figure out a way to get them in.
The Smart are self-discharging as my other chargers take forever to discharge these.

[jkflow]

Yes, all this is difficult as you are getting snippets of info.
Turning off LVC cures a symptom, but not the disease. If you turn it off, you will no longer have low voltage protection, i.e. now it's on you to stop before that becomes an issue. It's either intuition or you get yourself a lipo alarm.

Overcurrent is a function of the ESC, again a protection. Too big of a prop will ask for high currents and the ESC will simply say 'You are nuts' and shut itself down.

Before you do anything else, you have the stock ESC, which has a simple LED that will tell you what happened. It has a blinking code, read the manual and tell us what it's saying. (2 green, 3 green blinks etc).
Was the Zonda a CW or CCW? All standard props are CCW which comes standard on any boat. Hence, I don't get your setup running with 'reversed' Your flex shaft would simply disintegrate under power. Take a picture of flex shaft out with prop attached.

List of good lipo manufacturers, listed Spektrum only to show that they charge 2X for an ok performer, I'd stay in the top 10.
This is the only independent and realistic Lipo testing on the entire web, everything else is sample of one or just junk (in comparison), this is for the pack sizes only. Smaller packs are tested by others.

Clipboard01.jpg




A link to where we all get our lipo info from is below. Stay with those manufacturer, the 'best' is a mix of price and performance.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons

[paulejr]

Well, I can say that the Zonda's props were in the same box as the impulse and got mixed up , thinking i had the cw prop on the Impulse.. the Zonda uses both cw and ccw .. turning in board for speed from the factory. I now have them back on turning outboard, yes I swapped the drives and the collets then switched motor leads ... so now that is cleared up. still waiting on the card for the Spektrum ESC. all my boat now have the LVC set at 3.7v. not having any problems with the other three.
I will check out the battery recommendation. I read the results in the link... from 2012.. wondering how much has changed in the last 10 years? I do like two of the ones he likes the Turngy Blue HD and the HK Panther Graphene.

[Xrayted]

The testing results in the link are NOT from 2012! They started that thread and testing back in 2012, but the data on the front page is always kept current, and is currently showing testing from 2023 per the title of the very first post.

The data you see on that link is being generated as we speak, as they are currently in active testing multiple brands right now for 2023, so that data IS the answer to your "wondering how much has changed in the last 10 years" question. That is the entire point of that thread for more than a decade now.

[paulejr]

Well, I stand corrected.

[jkflow]

Correct, stay in the first post on that link, he updates it every season. HK Panther etc. are long gone as a recommendation, they are bottom of the barrel nowadays.
Still would need a picture of your actual setup, preferably with shaft out and closeup of shaft and prop.
Sorry, your description is all over the place, started with using dasboata props to never used them but Zonda instead etc. Very confusing on the receiving end. Willing to help but picture is a must at this point.

I stand by the LED code, my guess it's overcurrent. Just look at it when it happens next time and decode using the manual. Programming box won't do anything. 3.7V LVC seems extremely high, no wonder you get cut-offs. I'd be in the 3.5V range or lower.

[paulejr]

Indeed. let's just move on. I got the card today for the esc. the LVC was set at 3.7v per cell, I moved it to 3.4. The prop on the photo is Dasboata worked 1516, ccw. Good thing you wanted to see the shaft as the collet had snaped when I put it back together the other day and did not hear (hearing aids out) or see it until now....k
IMG_20230610_193109572_HDR.jpgIMG_20230610_192555477_BURST000_COVER.jpgIMG_20230610_193105392_HDR.jpgIMG_20230610_195143153_HDR.jpg

[jkflow]

That is the correct shaft with correct prop rotation. No need to buy anything else but spares of the same.
I bet that was one of those cheapo Amazon/eBay collets, had the same experience. Only buy your stuff from Offshore (this site), they sell quality items. I'd replace them ASAP including the piece that goes on the motor.

LVC 3.4V is ok but now you just have to make sure that you learn your boat and stop running before you hit LVC. I'd actually time runs and bring it in after 3 min, if that checks out do another minute, and so on. You want your Lipo to be in the 3.7V-3.8V range when you check, temperature of that lipo should be below 140F. Some may scream at those values, but that is normal in warmer climates (Florida here). Originally you had them at 3.9V which is too high even for storage levels.

Keep in mind that lipos heat up more the closer you get to empty.

Again, if you get another cut-off, look at the LED and report back. Enjoy!

[paulejr]

Ok, thanks Jk, the collet was off the Impulse rtr. there must be a " too tight " condition to crack that collet? I looked at
Speeds' and at nearly 40 dollars ... wufffff... good thing i have shaft savers on all the boats ....were i racing SAW, I'd be tempted to run their collet, at the rpms that are found in the SAW runs.

[Xrayted]

Yeah, those ProBoat collet nuts are made of thin aluminum and will crack easily, even under normal tightening. I had the same thing happen on my Miss Geico twin, so I replaced them both with a proper collet with a much thicker wall. No need for a $40 collet, as OSE has many different options at reasonable prices: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...lectric+Motors

[CJPB32]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]177155[/ATTACH]

Do you have dual rudders?

I have a stock Impulse 32; single rudder.

[paulejr]

CJPB, yes dual fins, as I was not content with the left turning ability of this set up. I just ganged the added fin (used identical one) to the existing one and now it turns with authority, both directions! And, at 58.2 mph, I did not notice any xtra drag. I believe the factory drive strut puts the prop in a position to take water away from the fin in left hand turns, reducing its ability to maneuver. Below is the link to one treatment.

https://youtu.be/55o61yZ8rw4

[CJPB32]

Thanks and nice set up! Did you cap the second rudder water outlet or Y it into the other rudder outlet? I just run for fun so I'm not concerned with drag really; besides trying to get the stinger and tabs set so she is stable and not too wet.

Sorry.... I guess I hi-jacked this thread with other questions not related to the original post.

[paulejr]

Well I tried to post a photo of the installation but they keep telling me it is too large . i shrank it to 16kb and still get the same error msg. I will try a second post. your hull has another pick up under it and i use it for the esc and the fin for the motor.

[paulejr]

thumbnail_IMG_20230612_160828686_HDR twin v4.jpg