Will a higher amp ESC allow my Sonicwake v2 to run cooler?

[jhamm]

I upgraded the prop to a 4519. I am using good 100c batteries but everything is still running way to hot. My EC5 and IC5 melted together last run. Will a larger ESC help things run cooler?

Thanks

[koen]

no a esc does not control temp, but what hull ,motor you use it's more a problem of setup

[koen]

sorry it's early ,is it run hot with the stock prop aswel?

[jhamm]

Yes it does.

[koen]

try to set the stinger 2mm plus and the trim tabs neutral ,you can also look on youtube ironclad rc to find a good setup

[jhamm]

Thanks I will take a look

[ray schrauwen]

Your connectors were limiting some flow and that's a good part of why they melted. Upgrade to at least 6.5mm bullets and then see if you are having same issues.

[jkflow]

Almost certain that your 100C batteries are cheap junk (quality wise), what make/model are they? My guess, at best they are 30C.
That would explain hot Lipos.

Connectors melted just because they are undersized for what you do. Suggest QS8 or bullets but you will get sparks with those.
Prop is probably too much as well.

ESC, a bigger ESC would help the ESC temp but since you never hat a thermal shutdown it won't get you anything.

Motor, with that prop size you will need a bigger/lower kV motor.

There is no easy answer. It's a chain of events that starts with the prop.

[jingalls007]

Your connectors got hot, but what else? Is the motor (shaft at the endbell), esc, batts, stuffing tube hot as well? If it’s just your connectors then start with larger, quality connectors like Castle 6.5mm or 8mm. Check your solder joints and make sure you’re not cold soldering or using a low temp solder. Double check your CG to make sure you’re not running too wet.

[mappo]

I upgraded the prop to a 4519. I am using good 100c batteries but everything is still running way to hot. My EC5 and IC5 melted together last run. Will a larger ESC help things run cooler?

Thanks

Hey I had the same issues. I upgraded to a 4417 and burnt the ESC, start with a 4214 prop and it will lower the temperature. I upgraded my Esc to a dynamite 160 and run a 448 on 6s and a 442 on 8s. On my v1 i run a 180 hobbywing with a 4217 prop, and sometimes a 4419 on 6s.

https://youtu.be/TulZbSKQ3jE

[PlayerUnknown069]

I upgraded the prop to a 4519. I am using good 100c batteries but everything is still running way to hot. My EC5 and IC5 melted together last run. Will a larger ESC help things run cooler?

Thanks

I run a Seaking 180 V3, 6.5mm Castle bullet connectors on the motor and 6.5mm castles polarized connectors on batteries, you could use EC5, I did for awhile with no issues just a little warm. I sleeved my motor wires with a silicone protective insulator, like $8 on Amazon for a few feet. Batteries are the white CHNL 5200mah 6s 180C burst packs or 9500 Mah(not recommend read below). Upgraded TFL Stinger, Upgrade 8mm cooling lines and large water exits.

70mph on a 3 blade Dasboata Prop -temps under 130
55-60 on a CNC 4519 and 4516 prop.

What happen? The plastic hulk split open like a can of sardines. Lesson learned, stop buying plastic toy boats.

[koen]

just put the hardware and electronics in a epoxy hull, if you live in the US OSE has them ,or in europe you have Hydro&marine or MHZ

[Capt. Crunch]

After you've got bigger conns, checked all solder joints, then you should try drilling out the water flow nipples, rudder pickup holes, & going to larger tubing, 1/8th " is really too small, if ESC is still too hot go to larger Amps rating. On my Cheetah I ended up with 2 pickups, one for motor & one for ESC, everything nice now.

But, as player noted you may be just using too large a prop, try his recommendations, they sound more reasonable.

Also I think koen is right, Plastic out over 3S! 4S = FG & CF hulls, there is a real difference.
The Delta Force Pirate 35" is less than $200 at OSE, would be a nice upgrade.

[jhamm]

Thanks. I will check it out.