NexGen EP1 P-Hydro and P-Ltd Hydro

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #1

    NexGen EP1 P-Hydro and P-Ltd Hydro

    These are some pics of my NexGen EP1 P-hdyro. This is the kit developed by Mark Grim and Charlie Mason from Huntsville, AL. The kit is available in 2 varieties: a P-Limited intended for 36x60mm motors and a P intended for slightly longer motors. The only difference between the two kits is the cut-out of a second bulkhead in front of the motor to allow for a longer motor in the P kit. The kit builds similar to a JAE and is easy to glue together with some basic skills. I built mine with a different motor mount and opted to put the steering servo in the baitbox. I am running a TP 40mm motor with a Castle X8S water cooled controller and a Promodeler DS205BLHV servo. The cowl shown in an optional fiberglass single piece cowl also available on the website.

    NexGen website where you can buy these kits is here: https://www.nexgenpmb.com

    I got to test this for the first time at the Valdosta TT and was impressed by the performance directly from the build sheet. 10 second laps were pretty easy to click off with a 44mm 1.6 pitch ratio prop without pushing the power system very hard at all. A P-ltd motor would have no problems running almost as quick in heat racing trim.

    NexGen EP1 P-Hydro Pic 59.jpgNexGen EP1 P-Hydro Pic 62.jpgNexGen EP1 P-Hydro Pic 73.jpgNexGen EP1 P-Hydro Pic 46.jpgNexGen EP1 P-Hydro Pic 63.jpg
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #2
    Cincy TT 1.jpgCincy TT 2.jpgCincy.jpg

    Some pics of the NexGen from the Cincinnati time trial where Mark Grim set the 1/4 mile P-Hydro record with a P-ltd motor.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

    Comment

    • Ub Hauled
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Aug 2007
      • 3031

      #3
      Hi Tyler!
      Thanks for the pictures and info, it’s a nice rigger and a very clean setup… as per usual, lol
      :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

      Comment

      • properchopper
        • Apr 2007
        • 6968

        #4
        Originally posted by ub hauled
        hi tyler!
        Thanks for the pictures and info, it?s a nice rigger and a very clean setup? as per usual, lol
        jan ???
        Attached Files
        2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
        2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
        '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

        Comment

        • RaceMechaniX
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Sep 2007
          • 2821

          #5
          A rare Jan sighting!
          Tyler Garrard
          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

          Comment

          • AaronMK
            Junior Member
            • Jun 2020
            • 3

            #6
            Howdy! I'm putting together this kit and I'm already confused on the first step.
            When gluing the bulkhead doublers, which side do you put them on (towards the front or rear)? I understand the placement of the doublers on the transom and the 2 bulkheads around the boom tubes, but the other bulkheads I'm unsure. It probably wouldn't make much difference but maybe it is nice to have the extra 1/8'' of room in certain spots.
            IMG_7130.jpg

            Comment

            • RaceMechaniX
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Sep 2007
              • 2821

              #7
              For the 3rd doubler I would put it on the transom side and for the 4th doubler I would put it on the front. This gives you the longest motor section option.
              Tyler Garrard
              NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
              T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

              Comment

              • racerr73
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2007
                • 133

                #8
                Tyler,
                Would you mind if i asked what length and kv TP Motor you used in this hydro.
                Thanks
                Trev

                Comment

                • RaceMechaniX
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 2821

                  #9
                  I run TP3650's and TP4050's.
                  Tyler Garrard
                  NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                  T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                  Comment

                  • AaronMK
                    Junior Member
                    • Jun 2020
                    • 3

                    #10
                    Hey guys! I'm finishing up this kit and prepping for the first run soon. What depth and angle should I initially set my strut to? It seems this height will also affect the height at which I'll set the rear sponsons. FYI, I'm running a P-LTD setup with a 1716 ABC prop.

                    Comment

                    • longballlumber
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 3132

                      #11
                      Originally posted by AaronMK
                      Hey guys! I'm finishing up this kit and prepping for the first run soon. What depth and angle should I initially set my strut to? It seems this height will also affect the height at which I'll set the rear sponsons. FYI, I'm running a P-LTD setup with a 1716 ABC prop.
                      They list some setup instructions on page 26-27 of the assembly manual. I am sure that should get you a decent starting point.

                      Comment

                      • terrym
                        Junior Member
                        • Apr 2023
                        • 2

                        #12
                        Have you guys experienced the aluminum that the cf rods do in to be very tight getting through the inner and outer plywood sponson sides ?Thanks

                        Comment

                        • terrym
                          Junior Member
                          • Apr 2023
                          • 2

                          #13
                          Also the brass tube in the kit for the water pick up does not line up with the doubler 1 and two it would have to be bent slightly at doubler 1 to mate with the cutout in doubler 2.

                          Comment

                          • RaceMechaniX
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Sep 2007
                            • 2821

                            #14
                            The aluminum bushings that go through the sponsons are tight and that's to help with alignment of the three pieces when you glue together. If they are too tight you can use a lexan body reamer to open them up the wood sides slightly, but I would leave the pink foam tight. The fit to the carbon booms may also be very tight and you may need to sand the carbon a little to get a easier slip fit.

                            They are aware of the brass tube offset between the doublers. You can use a long 5/32 drill bit to match drill all the bulkheads if you want.
                            Tyler Garrard
                            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                            Comment

                            Working...