Hydro&Marine FireBee (25.5?) setup Q?s

[jingalls007]

My 10 year old nephew and I are building his first rc boat. I?m not familiar with small monos. I have some 3s packs but need the rest of the equipment. This won?t be a race boat and we?d like it to be right-side up more than the other way around. We need motor, esc, running gear, props, etc.
Thanks doodes!

5FFA7138-01F3-41FC-81D8-905CCC99C3A1.jpg 8482BE16-4301-4518-9708-75C9607893ED.jpgF75EC0EC-5C73-4733-A6D1-4B9B966BB186.jpgC35A458C-8B00-409C-BD75-DB4C3CB3147F.jpg

[fweasel]

On 3S, you can shoot for a motor with a 36mm can, 3000kV wind, and a 120A ESC will be plenty. Slap a small set of turn fins and trim tabs on the back along with a small 3/16 sized strut and rudder combo from Speedmaster. If you want/need specific part numbers, send Steven from OSE an email and he'll get you squared away.

[jingalls007]

On 3S, you can shoot for a motor with a 36mm can, 3000kV wind, and a 120A ESC will be plenty. Slap a small set of turn fins and trim tabs on the back along with a small 3/16 sized strut and rudder combo from Speedmaster. If you want/need specific part numbers, send Steven from OSE an email and he'll get you squared away.

Should I float the strut?

Thx buddy!

[Oliveirax]

That boat is designed to use submerged drive (eco class). But it can be used as a mono too, i.e surface drive. If you go the mono route, as it has a tiny transom, you must use a stinger, not a strut. And I think there is no room for trim tabs or turn fins also. I would test it without them, as that boat may not even need them. Add a 95mm rudder and a mini (not micro) digital servo to have some steering .Powertrain wise, 3650 or 3660 motor, or even a 2960 (the hatch opening seems very narrow, you may not be able to slide a 36mm motor through it) with 3200kv or more, 4mm flex shaft (3/16 is too big for this size IMHO), 90A esc or bigger. Depending on your location (europe or usa) I can point you to where to buy these things. It would also help to know what you are expecting from it, performance wise.

[Jesse J]

I have used a straight steel stuffing tube and run it out the transom. This eliminated the need for a mount.
I then ran a straight 1/8 inch piano wire drive, that I added a drive dog and used 1/8in bore props. I used brass tubing of different sizes to shim.

[jingalls007]

Oliver- I’d prefer to set it up submerged but I don’t have experience with it. I’m in the states where it’s tough to find parts and information. If you could point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. Motor, props, drive, rudder, etc.

Thanks!

[Oliveirax]

Oliver- I?d prefer to set it up submerged but I don?t have experience with it. I?m in the states where it?s tough to find parts and information. If you could point me in the right direction I?d appreciate it. Motor, props, drive, rudder, etc.

Thanks!

Hey there, sorry for the delay, but my first little one has just been born.

So, You want to build a ECO boat. Well, the truth is, ECO class boats are a european, or, better yet, an eastern european thing. There is not even a slight expression of it over there in the US. As such, it is very difficult to purchase ECO boat hardware over there. But, If that is your desire, I won't stand in front of it. But, beforehand, a little foreword of what ECO boat racing is all about. These boats are meant for endurance, not speed. The typical heat is around 40 laps, in a triangular, CLOCKWISE race. That is for mini ECO or ECO expert electric boats. The 'de facto' standard for ECO racing are .21 engine boats that hold about a gallon of fuel onboard and race for about a 3 hours in an M-shaped circuit. These boats are not meant for speed, in fact, once they reach their design speed, more power will not make them go faster, it will just push them out of the water (because of the angled driveshaft). Their biggest strength is the ability to turn on a dime, and turning very well in both directions, because of having the rudder into the propwash.

If You want to set it up as a ECO boat, you must buy and import all the hardware from europe. The best store I know for ECO stuff is

http://ecomaster.torgg.com/.

Over There you can buy, transmission, rudders, motor mount, and, even more important, ECO props. None of the american Octura, Prather and such will do. A submerged prop is a completely different Animal.

Here you have the typical layout for an ECO boat. https://www.dropbox.com/s/w485fotcsg..._6474.PNG?dl=0, it is from a mini-eco, but you can extrapolate angles, CG, motor position and such from it.

Here you have a Pdf, in czech, for the wotk required to build an eco boat, nevermind the text, just look at the pictures. There you will see how much work is involved: http://www.mmodely.cz/wp-content/upl...o_mini_exp.pdf

IMHO, I would go for an american style surface drive. Lots of hardware, props and know-how right here at this forum. ECO is more like an specialty thing: there is just one way of setting it up. If you mess up, there is no setup possible. Hardly what I think you are trying to accomplish with your nephew.
For me, boats is experimenting with props, motors, drive depth, drive angle and such. Those things are "blocked" in an eco boat. All of it is defined at build time. If you get it right, fine, or else....

You can still have the self righting ability with your hull, even if you set it up as an american-style mono. Just watch what these french guys did with a Sideon, your hull's baby brother: https://blog.mini-meca-rc.com/sideon-v2/ and https://www.offshore-rc.com/forum/in...sideon-v2-mmp/