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Just for the heck of it I typed in 200 watt soldering iron on Amazon and all kinds of stuff came up . I have a very old wellar, so old that all the writing is worn of but I think it's a 100 watt that I use strictly for connectors on batteries and ESC's and it seems to do the job.
Just for the heck of it I typed in 200 watt soldering iron on Amazon and all kinds of stuff came up . I have a very old wellar, so old that all the writing is worn of but I think it's a 100 watt that I use strictly for connectors on batteries and ESC's and it seems to do the job.
Looking at the reviews on Amazon doesn?t give me a warm and fuzzy feeling about a lot of those claiming 200w.
I use a Weller 200W, but this is a significant investment. I noticed Home Depot lists a 120VAC 200W plumbing soldering iron for a very reasonable price. This may be worth a try: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-20...12-P/204265002
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
I use a Weller 200W, but this is a significant investment. I noticed Home Depot lists a 120VAC 200W plumbing soldering iron for a very reasonable price. This may be worth a try: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-20...12-P/204265002
That seems reasonably priced compared to other 200w irons. They get expensive quickly haha.
Thanks Tyler,
Jarrett
I use a Hakko FX888 soldering station for all for my battery and motor wiring work. As long as you match the appropriate sized tip for the work being performed, it works great and heats up fast.
I really love this new 150Watt iron. Lots of nice features like quick heat rise and fairly quick cool. They make a smaller 80watt one I have also but never opened up.
No issues soldering 8G wires and 8mm connectors and the iron weighs nothing and is portable.
Hakko is my choice for most soldering projects. I need something more powerful for the 8mm and 10mm anti spark connectors.
I solder the OSE 8mm anti-sparks connectors with silver solder all day long with my Hakko, no trouble. Haven't done a 10mm with it, but honestly I wouldn't even think twice about it not getting the job done. I do turn up the temp a little bit, but with proper prep, it works great. Just my experience anyways
I always deform the plastic housing that the bullets sit in. I connect the opposite connector to keep them in-line while soldering but I still seem to get some movement or sinking of the bullets. With a hotter iron I can heat the bullet quicker with less chance of melting the plastic housing.
The 10mm connectors are doable with the hakko but it ain?t pretty. At least not when I?m thru with it.
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