Needing answers on 1st Build, ML Boatworks GSX 380-V2

[Cycotravlr]

My name is Perry Bell. I've built RC Airplanes for about 12 years. So I am not new to "Kit Building". I live at Lake Mohawk, Ohio, so I decided to build an FE Boat. I chose the ML Boatworks GSX 380, ordered it, and started the build. I live in Ohio for the Spring and Summer, and Oklahoma during the Winter. Currently I am about a thousand miles from my Boat project. I'm trying to get some answers to what might be "Newbie" questions and be ready to dive in once I return to Ohio. I have the Main Hull and the Sponsons assembled and ready to add Epoxy to the inside. I would like to apply Carbon Fiber to the inside of the Hull, and Sponsons if I need be. These first few questions will be about installing Carbon Fiber.

1. Should I Setup the Motor mount and hole for Push Tube, Strut, and Rudder, for Hole Location purposes, before I inlay Carbon Fiber?
2. Should I cut sheets of Carbon Fiber to fit between the Engine Rails in all 3 sections of the Hull then Epoxy in place?
3. Is the center 3 sections of the Hull the only areas that will need Carbon Fiber?
4. Should I "paint" the whole Boat with a thin coat of epoxy before I start the Carbon Fiber?
5. Where do I buy small enough quantity of Carbon Fiber, and Epoxy resin and hardener to do a 38" Boat? Will I need a Gallon???

Answers to these questions will get me started. There will be many more to come.

Thanks in advance,

Perry

[Peter A]

1) No you can do those after.
2) Yes.
3) Yes, but you would be best also to glass or carbon the inside of the sponsons before fitting the top sheets for added strength.
4) Yes good idea to seal the wood. It is a good idea to thin the epoxy with denatured alcohol ( I use methylated spirits as is is easier to get here) and do a couple of coats inside and out as you build.
5) I will leave this answer to someone more local.

Others may have advice also. This is just what I did with my GP310.

[pescador]

That?s pretty much what I did with my nitro GSX 380, I use the pump system from West Systems and it would be plenty for a couple of builds.






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[Cycotravlr]

Thank you Gentlemen for your quick response. I have another question or two about Carbon Fiber. What weight or thickness should I buy and where can I order it from?

Thanks again,

Perry

[Cycotravlr]

Well, I never had a response on what Carbon Fabric to purchase so I'll save that for later. I am now in the stage of ordering internal components for this Boat. So here is where the real "Newbie'Questions" start. I'll start with the Servo and see what response I get.

1. How much Servo Torque do I need for a 40" Sports Hydroplane powered with 6S??
2. Cowling Locks- Do I need them if I am using Hatch Tape?
3. What is the best method to seal the Hatch and Motor Cover??

I have several more questions but I thought I'd see if I can get some answers a few at a time. If it is better to unload them all at once then someone let me know and we'll get this show started.

Thanks
Perry

[fweasel]

You can never have too much torque. I use a digital servo with 300oz rating at 6V on most of my 36-42" boats.

While I've never built that model and don't know how or where they'd go, I prefer a solid locking mechanism (hatch locks) on my canopies and use tape only as a waterproofing method. On my new rigger, the only option is tape, so I'm adapting as required.

[Jesse J]

I’m about to start this same build.
I will not be adding any carbon, I don’t see the need to add any extra strength.
I will paint with thinned west systems to seal it.

[jingalls007]

I built the GSX 380. I used 2” fiberglass tape for the floor pan joints. I put a strip of 12k down the center from the bow to the transom. I buy rolls of 8” 12k carbon fiber on eBay. You want a tight weave fiber so make sure the seller packages it in a rolled tube and not a folded cloth.

I use West Systems to wet out the cloth and fiber as well as seal the wood.

I use coreless Savox servos with 300-400 oz of torque;
waterproof, of course.

I use 4 small hatch locks for the cowl and tape for transom lid.

[Jesse J]

Actually the tape is a good idea, I may do some of that.
I don’t think clothing the whole thing will be necessary... but it sure looks good.
Oh, and I just realized You are doing the 380 and I’m doing the 338... cloth is good idea.

[jingalls007]

Carbon fiber isn’t necessary on the 380; Its rigid without it. I would lay down a layer or two of fiberglass cloth down the center and tape the seems though.

[Shooter]

Hi Perry. After many boats, I've found that rubbing the epoxy into the wood with a pair of rubber gloves in a circular motion works best for sealing. That way it penetrates into the woodgrain. Just my two cents!

[Cycotravlr]

Alright Gentlemen, since I am a rookie I can ask strange questions. Do I need a Thrust Bearing and where should it be installed???

[Cycotravlr]

By the way, thanks to everyone who has responded. This information has been very helpful and I need all the help I can get.

Perry

[jingalls007]

Alright Gentlemen, since I am a rookie I can ask strange questions. Do I need a Thrust Bearing and where should it be installed???

You don?t need one.

[Cycotravlr]

And Again.....

Question about Balancing. This is my idea of the process. If I'm wrong, someone PLEASE stear me in the right direction.

First; Build the wooden Hull structure (with possible exception of some Deck material that might be installed after Balancing).
Secondly: Install all purchased Hardware in assumed location, such as Motor & Mount; ESC; Coupler; Flex Cable; Strut; Prop; Servo and Mount; Rudder assembly, and place the Batteries in forward location. Basically, set in place as if ready to race.

I've been told that the CG should be slightly in front of the LOWEST point of the Sponsons. ???? Move everything around until Balance point has been found. Mark Locations of all items. Remove and drill any holes needed to secure items in place. Then use Thinned Epoxy to seal the interior of the hull.

This all for now. Once again, ALL suggestions are respected and considered helpful.

Thanks,

Perry