Zonda struts

[banixj]

Hi guys,
i'm doing some upgrade on a V2 TFL fiberglass Zonda.
The V2 have 108mm stingers with double fixing on hull (one for drive, one for inclination setup) and shaft drive separated by flex (square hole to make them joined).
Do you know if is it possible to extract final shaft drive from the stinger body?
I'd like to convert to piano wire drive so i need to change the end shaft...
Any suggestion will be very aprreciated!

[1coopgt]

Hi guys,
i'm doing some upgrade on a V2 TFL fiberglass Zonda.
The V2 have 108mm stingers with double fixing on hull (one for drive, one for inclination setup) and shaft drive separated by flex (square hole to make them joined).
Do you know if is it possible to extract final shaft drive from the stinger body?
I'd like to convert to piano wire drive so i need to change the end shaft...
Any suggestion will be very aprreciated!

You can take it a part to remove the Prop shafts. I thought about going with wire drives but no one makes them for the Zonda. I did at one point talk to Mr. Wohlt about trying to have some made but in the end I went with the flex shafts.I have his wire drives in my Zelos 36 Twin. I went with 1 piece flex shafts I picked up from the OSE store. https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...-HD-zonda-twin Honestly I'm not sure wire drives are a good idea on this boat . The reason I say that is because even with greasing the flex shafts well I still get water coming in through the stuffing tube. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to keep the water out.

[1coopgt]

Hi guys,
i'm doing some upgrade on a V2 TFL fiberglass Zonda.
The V2 have 108mm stingers with double fixing on hull (one for drive, one for inclination setup) and shaft drive separated by flex (square hole to make them joined).
Do you know if is it possible to extract final shaft drive from the stinger body?
I'd like to convert to piano wire drive so i need to change the end shaft...
Any suggestion will be very aprreciated!

You can take it apart to remove the Prop shafts. I thought about going with wire drives but no one makes them for the Zonda. I did at one point talk to Mr. Wohlt about trying to have some made but in the end I went with the flex shafts.I have his wire drives in my Zelos 36 Twin. I went with 1 piece flex shafts I picked up from the OSE store. https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...-HD-zonda-twin Honestly I'm not sure wire drives are a good idea on this boat . The reason I say that is because even with greasing the flex shafts well I still get water coming in through the stuffing tube. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to keep the water out.

[banixj]

I know jeff very well, many wire drives bought for zelos... The water coming never was a problem if end shaft is tight on sleeves.. but my problem remains: no way to pull out end shaft from the zonda strut..

[1coopgt]

IMG_20200907_163859.jpg

Undo these 3 spots to remove the strut and pull the drive shaft out.

"The water coming never was a problem if end shaft is tight on sleeves" Not sure what you mean by this ?

[banixj]

I unscrewed the 3 spots but the end shaft remains inside the housing... Flex only came out...

1coopgt said water could enter inside if using wire drives... For my experience is not true... Water never came inside my zelos or my hpr with wire drives... Water came inside on my mhz with flex because of the usured sleeves bearings...

[1coopgt]

I unscrewed the 3 spots but the end shaft remains inside the housing... Flex only came out...

1coopgt said water could enter inside if using wire drives... For my experience is not true... Water never came inside my zelos or my hpr with wire drives... Water came inside on my mhz with flex because of the usured sleeves bearings...

I didn't say water was leaking in on my Zelos. I said I was getting water coming in on the Zonda through the stuffing tubes with flex shafts. Which makes me think it would be worse with wire drives. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

If you removed the Strut from the boat and removed the drive dog the prop shaft should push right through the boat side of the strut. It's the only way it comes apart.

[banixj]

Now i understand what u mean about water.. very strange coz flex winding should keep water out when rotating...

Maybe I understand also how to remove end shaft.. tomorrow i will try again.. thanx

[1coopgt]

Now i understand what u mean about water.. very strange coz flex winding should keep water out when rotating...

Maybe I understand also how to remove end shaft.. tomorrow i will try again.. thanx

The water coming in through the stuffing tubes was a static test in my bath tub. It was taking more water then I expected.

Should be pretty easy to take out the prop shaft. The drive dog is what keeps it in place . By removing it it will slide right out.

[CrashBandit]

The water coming in through the stuffing tubes was a static test in my bath tub. It was taking more water then I expected.

Should be pretty easy to take out the prop shaft. The drive dog is what keeps it in place . By removing it it will slide right out.

You need to remove the strut then you can remove the prop nut then prop and finally the drive dog. Then the half shaft will slide right out. I usually do this after a week or so of drive time to clean everything and reassemble with a fishing reel lube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaike5]

Fishing reel lube ? Never heard of a fishing reel spinning at 30k, could be wrong though!!

[banixj]

The water coming in through the stuffing tubes was a static test in my bath tub. It was taking more water then I expected.

Should be pretty easy to take out the prop shaft. The drive dog is what keeps it in place . By removing it it will slide right out.

Thank u so much 1coopgt, everything is ok, now i can copy the end shaft and make it wire drive! i am not usual with that strange end shaft....

Regarding the water inside i can tell you more: when you make tests in the bath tub the boat is static, so fully submerged, with the water level up to the drive line, with flex stopped.... but when you run the hull come out from the water so the water level is down and the flex push out the small water quantity inside the stuffing tube... trust me: if bearings are ok few drops only can enter inside, that's normal... specially if you stop sometimes during the running...

[1coopgt]

Thank u so much 1coopgt, everything is ok, now i can copy the end shaft and make it wire drive! i am not usual with that strange end shaft....

Regarding the water inside i can tell you more: when you make tests in the bath tub the boat is static, so fully submerged, with the water level up to the drive line, with flex stopped.... but when you run the hull come out from the water so the water level is down and the flex push out the small water quantity inside the stuffing tube... trust me: if bearings are ok few drops only can enter inside, that's normal... specially if you stop sometimes during the running...

Thanks!