HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

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  • domwilson
    Moderator
    • Apr 2007
    • 4408

    #196
    The purpose of sanding is to get all the FET's flat so that the cooling surface will contact each FET uniformly.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

    Comment

    • ED66677
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2007
      • 1300

      #197
      Ok, how does one get more timming out of these escs?
      my MM 9XL motor sounds slow..
      more timming? 2 pole motor require low timming!!!
      Emmanuel
      I'm french but I doubt I really am!
      http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

      Comment

      • Jesse J
        scale FE racer
        • Aug 2008
        • 7116

        #198
        Originally posted by domwilson
        The purpose of sanding is to get all the FET's flat so that the cooling surface will contact each FET uniformly.
        I think masking would be ok, if you use thermal paste/epoxy, shouldn't need to actually touch fet to cooling plate, the sub millimeter space should be no prob with good thermal paste. Correct me if I'm wrong, I'd like to know.
        "Look good doin' it"
        See the fleet

        Comment

        • Jesse J
          scale FE racer
          • Aug 2008
          • 7116

          #199
          Originally posted by ED66677
          more timming? 2 pole motor require low timming!!!
          Could be, but I know that the one I use allows my 8XL to wind up, while my Dad's (same set up) doesn't. We reprogrammed it with higher timing, but didn't get a chance to test it yet. I hope it doesn't blow!
          "Look good doin' it"
          See the fleet

          Comment

          • domwilson
            Moderator
            • Apr 2007
            • 4408

            #200
            Originally posted by Jesse J
            I think masking would be ok, if you use thermal paste/epoxy, shouldn't need to actually touch fet to cooling plate, the sub millimeter space should be no prob with good thermal paste. Correct me if I'm wrong, I'd like to know.
            Initially You are correct, it won't be a problem. Just over time, it can be as the paste will eventually dry up leaving the space filled with a chalk like substance.
            Government Moto:
            "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

            Comment

            • Jesse J
              scale FE racer
              • Aug 2008
              • 7116

              #201
              I would suspect that could be the case with the cream, but how about the thermal epoxy? it cures up solid in a matter of hours and stays tight, right?
              "Look good doin' it"
              See the fleet

              Comment

              • Brushless55
                Creator
                • Oct 2008
                • 9488

                #202
                Originally posted by Jesse J
                Could be, but I know that the one I use allows my 8XL to wind up, while my Dad's (same set up) doesn't. We reprogrammed it with higher timing, but didn't get a chance to test it yet. I hope it doesn't blow!
                Hey Jesse, let me know how that turns out.. I think I'm having the same issue, better yet give me a call, I would like to see that boat run!
                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                Comment

                • domwilson
                  Moderator
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 4408

                  #203
                  Originally posted by Jesse J
                  I would suspect that could be the case with the cream, but how about the thermal epoxy? it cures up solid in a matter of hours and stays tight, right?
                  You mean like Artic Silver? I don't think it would be a problem as long as you keep it away from circuit traces, FET connections, etc. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm
                  Government Moto:
                  "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

                  Comment

                  • ksm2001
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 377

                    #204
                    I use Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Adhesive http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm on both my Himodel 200 esc's and didn't sand the fets this is different than what you mentioned Dominic since it's a non conductive thermal epoxy so if you get some on the circuit board it won't cause a problem, it dries in about 5 minutes and is solid to the cooling plate.

                    I have my timing set to 1 degree running the 8xl in my DF29 knock off on 4s running at 57 mph.

                    Ken
                    DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

                    Comment

                    • domwilson
                      Moderator
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 4408

                      #205
                      Where did you pick it up from?
                      Government Moto:
                      "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

                      Comment

                      • questtek
                        Senior Member
                        • May 2009
                        • 556

                        #206
                        I found the two-part thermal expxy to work great. Here are some pictures of mods that I did on 100 and 200 Amp inexpensive Mystery ESc's. I think the controller circuit board is the same for many of the ESC's that fall in this same class. (compare the close up pic with your controller) They up the amp ratings by just adding more FET boards.

                        My mods include:
                        adding more caps, generally to 4000 uf
                        ALWAYS using a BEC
                        re-routing all the wires so they come out the same end.
                        adding a thermistor to measure DIRECT FET temps, not just the surface of the heat sink
                        adding a 100ohm 1 watt resistor to prevent arching when connecting
                        Increasing the power wire size to 10 guarge with large bullet connectors.
                        On some units I also put a copper heat sink on the caps and a thermistor under it to measure actul cap temps (all feed into my Eagle Tree)

                        Pics attached. Suggestions?
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

                        • ksm2001
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2007
                          • 377

                          #207
                          Originally posted by domwilson
                          Where did you pick it up from?
                          I bought the Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Adhesive form a computer store here where I live called Memory Express but any bigger computer products store should carry it.
                          DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

                          Comment

                          • NativePaul
                            Greased Weasel
                            • Feb 2008
                            • 2760

                            #208
                            I also use arctic alumina epoxy to fix the heatsink to the fets, and the tubes to the heatsink, while it would be best to sand and lap the FETs then apply thermal paste then clamp the heatsink in place to stop it moving around with this ESC I don't see clamping as practical so choes just to mix a little AAE , put a dob on each fet, push the heatsink on then pull off and check that the AAE has spread out over each FET, then put the heatsink back on and weight down with a book or something heavy for 20 mins (its like 5 min epoxy), while this isnt perfect it is a lot better and easier than lapping the fets and then using a thermal transfer pad which are crap unless your willing to spend over £100 for a sheet a few inches square and then there still not very good.

                            Note, I do not conformal coat my ESCs prefering to enclose them in heat shrink and seal the ends with electrical grade silicone, but if I did I would sand the regular epoxy (or silicone or whatever the conformal coating is) off the tops of the fets before applying the AAE.

                            When doing the tubes simply squish the aluminium tube flatish with a vice or small hammer so it will fit between the fins (there are 2 fins with a wider gap than normal use these) leaving the tube round on either side of the Heatsink, look and blow down the tubes to make sure you didnt flatten them too much and restrict them, then glue in place with AAE as you would normal 5 min epoxy.
                            Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

                            Comment

                            • wolf IV
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2008
                              • 961

                              #209
                              I just use a flux paste light brush and paint on the epoxy everywhere but the tops of the fetts... I then lightly block sand the top of the fets as lapping doesnt do any good with un even hand laid fetts like the hi-models... Arctic silver is the way to go!!
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-npTLBHefY

                              Comment

                              • Brushless55
                                Creator
                                • Oct 2008
                                • 9488

                                #210
                                Originally posted by questtek
                                I found the two-part thermal expxy to work great. Here are some pictures of mods that I did on 100 and 200 Amp inexpensive Mystery ESc's. I think the controller circuit board is the same for many of the ESC's that fall in this same class. (compare the close up pic with your controller) They up the amp ratings by just adding more FET boards.

                                My mods include:
                                adding more caps, generally to 4000 uf
                                ALWAYS using a BEC
                                re-routing all the wires so they come out the same end.
                                adding a thermistor to measure DIRECT FET temps, not just the surface of the heat sink
                                adding a 100ohm 1 watt resistor to prevent arching when connecting
                                Increasing the power wire size to 10 guarge with large bullet connectors.
                                On some units I also put a copper heat sink on the caps and a thermistor under it to measure actul cap temps (all feed into my Eagle Tree)


                                Pics attached. Suggestions?
                                Good stuff man!
                                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                                Comment

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