Motor temps Esc temps and Lipo temps

[Speedfreek]

Hi Guys
I have tried looking for these, is there a guide, list of temps for these three eg what range is Cool ? What range is Warm ? What range is Hot ? For all three Motor , Esc , Lipo .
The lipo i have 45 Degrees Celsius, Cool , 55 Warm, 65 Hot from a Revolectrix temp sticker.
Any takers........

[Jesse J]

I’d like to help.. but I’m having trouble, what motor, what esc, what batteries, what boat, what application?
It’s a recipe, not just roasted apples, but a bunch of ingredients.
Please help us help you?

[Speedfreek]

I’d like to help.. but I’m having trouble, what motor, what esc, what batteries, what boat, what application?
It’s a recipe, not just roasted apples, but a bunch of ingredients.
Please help us help you?

I understand what your saying but without going into detail, isn't there a average max temp not to go over for Motors due to demagnetisation and or for ESC ?

[Bp9145]

I understand what your saying but without going into detail, isn't there a average max temp not to go over for Motors or ESC eg: 55 deg c for motor ?

I think I know what you're getting at. For me, at least, I like all three, motor, esc and lipos to be under 120°F(48.89°C) and the lower the better but I only sport run. Before I got a temp gun I used to use the finger touch technique, where you would place your fingers on the motor and if you can't keep it there for several seconds then it's too hot. Usually the common person can tolerate 130°F(54.4°C) on their skin before it starts to burn the skin but mine is at 120°F. But I believe generally anything under 150°F for the motor should be fine where the closer to 150°F(65.56°C) or over is starting to push it. The same goes for the batteries. I've had batteries swell up because of under "not so good conditions" or setup and the temps were only as low as 130°F. . .by the time I opened the hatch up and so there are some time lapsed. . .temps could have been and most likely much higher during failure. Then again I've had them come back with same 130°F and up to 150°F and they were fine.. .maybe different brands? As for the esc the highest temp I've gotten them was just slightly over 140°F(60°C). Other than that I've gotten some catch on fire and motors blown and I'm sure the temps were much higher.. .never got to check what the temp were since I was too busy putting them out . LOL . . .I know under racing or saw conditions temps are much different. .much higher and some don't really care as long as they have achieved what they wanted to do. I know I've had my share and realize I can no longer afford to burn, destroy or break anymore escs, motors or batteries. . .I'm more careful and knowledgeable these days then when I was doing those things. . .I think. .LOL. Well, these figures are for me. I hope the pros or guys who compete will chime in as they generally push or test their equipment to the max . .up to the point of failure and they know what will hold up or not. But, I can tell you this, high temps on any of the three.. .esc, batteries and motor will lead to shorter lifespan. They might seem or look ok and function ok but they will not last as long as the ones that are not consistently pushed close to or at their limits. . .Neodymiium(NdFeB) magnets in motors will start to degrade and if it's really too hot the magnets will depolarze. .not good. On an esc, problems occur with the PCBA, fets or caps will the suffer . .burn or swell. Then the cells on lipos are already degrading each and every time you charge or use them so high heat or overheating them will definitely speed up the process or at very high heats at 160°F(71.1°C) or higher the possibility of affecting the cells as well as the mechanical casing of a lipo battery can definitely be seen in them swelling or catching on fire as air is introduced into the cells during the malfunction of the mechanical casing. But, there are exceptions to the make of the motor, esc or lipo batteries where their motor, esc or lipo batteries can tolerate higher temps or abuse but still in the long run they will fail or not function at their best. Unless you use military grade or commercial ones that definitely have higher tolerance than what we use, then I suggest anything under 150°F should be fine on the motor, esc and lipo battery but, again, lower is much much better. I hope this helps you a bit but, again these values are what I adhere to.

[Speedfreek]

I think I know what you're getting at. For me, at least, I like all three, motor, esc and lipos to be under 120°F(48.89°C) and the lower the better but I only sport run. Before I got a temp gun I used to use the finger touch technique, where you would place your fingers on the motor and if you can't keep it there for several seconds then it's too hot. Usually the common person can tolerate 130°F(54.4°C) on their skin before it starts to burn the skin but mine is at 120°F. But I believe generally anything under 150°F for the motor should be fine where the closer to 150°F(65.56°C) or over is starting to push it. The same goes for the batteries. I've had batteries swell up because of under "not so good conditions" or setup and the temps were only as low as 130°F and as high as 150°F. . .by the time I opened the hatch up and so there are some time lapsed. . .temps could have been and most likely much higher during failure. Then again I've had them come back with same 130°F or slightly over and they were fine.. .maybe different brands? As for the esc the highest temp I've gotten them was just slightly over 140°F(60°C). Other than that I've gotten some catch on fire and motors blown and I'm sure the temps were much higher.. .never got to check what the temp were since I was too busy putting them out . LOL . . .I know under racing or saw conditions temps are much different. .much higher and some don't really care as long as they have achieved what they wanted to do. I know I've had my share and realize I can no longer afford to burn, destroy or break anymore escs, motors or batteries. . .I'm more careful and knowledgeable now then when I was doing those things. . .I think. .LOL. Well, these figures are for me. I hope guys who compete will chime in as they generally push or test their equipment to the max . .up to the point of failure and they know what will hold up or not. But, I can tell you this, high temps on any of the three.. .esc, batteries and motor will lead to shorter lifespan. They might seem or look ok and function ok but they will not last as long as the ones that are not consistently pushed close to or at their limits. . .Neodymiium(NdFeB) magnets in motors will start to degrade and if it's really too hot the magnets will depolarze. .not good. On an esc, problems occur with the PCBA, fets or caps will the suffer . .burn or swell. Then the cells on lipos are already degrading each and every time you charge or use them so high heat or overheating them will definitely speed up the process or at very high heats at 160°F(71.1°C) or higher the possibility of affecting the cells as well as the mechanical casing of a lipo battery can definitely be seen in them swelling or catching on fire as air is introduced into the cells during the malfunction of the mechanical casing. But, there are exceptions to the make of the motor, esc or lipo batteries where their motor, esc or lipo batteries can tolerate higher temps or abuse but still in the long run they will fail or not function at their best. Unless you use military grade or commercial ones that definitely have higher tolerance than what we use, then I suggest anything under 150°F should be fine on the motor and esc and as for the lipo battery the . I hope this helps you a bit but, again these values are what I adhere to.

Yep perfect example right there, thanks

[Speedfreek]

So Lets just say, as a guide a SAFE temp range for all three are

34 to 113 = Green
114 to 131 = Orange
132 to 149 = Red

[Bp9145]

So Lets just say, as a guide a SAFE temp range for all three are

34 to 113 = Green
114 to 131 = Orange
132 to 149 = Red

under <120°F (48.89°C) = GREEN / GOOD
121°F (49.44°C) to 140° (60°C) = YELLOW / SAFE WITHIN LIMITS
141°F (60.56°C) >and above = RED / CAUTION: AT YOUR OWN RISK

These figures I would think to be on the safer side for the average FE boater (sport running). But for someone who has extensive experience who competes or races, I'm sure their figures are much higher but they know what they are doing. . .whether it's good or not they know what they're doing.. .99% of the time. LOL FYI I've been told that under 160°F (71.1°C) from many experienced RC enthusiast, is fine for the motor.. But, I'm putting my figures for someone who might be inclined to push their gear but still stay on the safer side. BUT Speedfreak YOURS IS EVEN SAFER/BETTER. . .you certainly shouldn't have any issues or if any, very little, with much lower figures than mine. Remember, each person will have their own experience and as they grow more in confidence and knowledge, they can set their own guidelines that works for them. There might be some here who might smirk at my interpretations of "safe" but, again, that's me being SAFE. Believe me I've pushed my setups pretty hard and over their limits many of times with some success and many not so much. But, these figures are where I'm comfortable at now and happy with.

[Speedfreek]

under <120°F (48.89°C) = GREEN / GOOD
121°F (49.44°C) to 140° (60°C) = YELLOW / SAFE WITHIN LIMITS
141°F (60.56°C) >and above = RED / CAUTION: AT YOUR OWN RISK

These figures I would think to be on the safer side for the average FE boater (sport running). But for someone who has extensive experience who competes or races, I'm sure their figures are much higher but they know what they are doing. . .whether it's good or not they know what they're doing.. .99% of the time. LOL FYI I've been told that under 160°F (71.1°C) from many experienced RC enthusiast, is fine for the motor.. But, I'm putting my figures for someone who might be inclined to push their gear but still stay on the safer side. BUT Speedfreak YOURS IS EVEN SAFER/BETTER. . .you certainly shouldn't have any issues or if any, very little, with much lower figures than mine. Remember, each person will have their own experience and as they grow more in confidence and knowledge, they can set their own guidelines that works for them. There might be some here who might smirk at my interpretations of "safe" but, again, that's me being SAFE. Believe me I've pushed my setups pretty hard and over their limits many of times with some success and many not so much. But, these figures are where I'm comfortable at now and happy with.

Cool , looks good to me .
Obviously it's a guide nothing is etched in stone, everyone has a different set-up or purpose but it is good to have a ball park figure , thanks for your input.
I am sure everyone has a different figure of what this would be, but I am definitely happy with the above,

[Bp9145]

for me, NOW, it's better to be safe than sorry.. .I've had my share of extreme speeds...chasing that 100mph plus. Finally, after achieving it, I'm just happy with 40mph-70mph and I don't burn or blow up anything anymore. Once in awhile I do but because of carelessness or not paying attention. I don't max equipment anymore, just with proper setup and lots of tweaking you can achieve pretty good speeds without having to max your equipment. Just because your esc and motor states it can handle 6S doesn't mean you have to run it at 6S. You can run 4S or 5S as long as you prop right . .sharpened/balanced, strut adjustments, sharpen turn fins and rudder, correct timing on esc. . .etc. etc. ..lots of tweaking and you can achieve speeds as fast as running on 6S (that hasn't been setup properly) without stressing your electronics. . . common sense also goes a long way to making sure you have a stress free experience in the water.