Seeking advice on setup for a 45" mono

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  • UpsideDown
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2019
    • 14

    #16
    Thank all for your replies. The more I read the more i realise that the 45" hull is not doable. I managed to get hold of a Pursuit and I figured that would be a good start for me. I have an el cheapo flycolor 150A lying around which should hopefully do the job until I get something better.

    785boats I am based in NSW. I would assume with the pursuit the stock shaft needs to be upgraded to 3/16. You mentioned the TP 4050 2200kv is a good option for it. Which prop runs best on that setup? Thanks again for yr help

    Comment

    • martin
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Aug 2010
      • 2887

      #17
      The Pursuit normally comes with a 3/16" flex fitted, however it is a 2 piece drive shaft where you must remove the stinger to access the drive assembly for cleaning & greasing. This is why most upgrade the stock shaft to an after market 1 piece which makes greasing simple.

      Comment

      • 785boats
        Wet Track Racing
        • Nov 2008
        • 3169

        #18
        Originally posted by UpsideDown
        Thank all for your replies. The more I read the more i realise that the 45" hull is not doable. I managed to get hold of a Pursuit and I figured that would be a good start for me. I have an el cheapo flycolor 150A lying around which should hopefully do the job until I get something better.

        785boats I am based in NSW. I would assume with the pursuit the stock shaft needs to be upgraded to 3/16. You mentioned the TP 4050 2200kv is a good option for it. Which prop runs best on that setup? Thanks again for yr help
        It's a shame you are not up here. Our club is always looking for new members.

        As Martin stated, changing the flex to a one piece shaft makes servicing it so much easier.

        The props I use are the Octura X440/3 blade, or a CNC 4214/3 blade, or an Octura M445.
        Last edited by 785boats; 02-23-2019, 03:37 PM.
        See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
        http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
        http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

        Comment

        • 785boats
          Wet Track Racing
          • Nov 2008
          • 3169

          #19
          Originally posted by Nevs
          6000 mAh and 90 sec. means that you boat is allowed to consume 240 A average = 3600 watt or close to 5 hp.., (but it might kill your lipo). Its possible to use that energy in a 45" boat. But probably in a 32" ?
          Sven.
          We don't run the full 6000mah out of the pack. There's still around 25% left in my packs at the end of the race. And that includes a mill lap and a wind down lap too, for a total of 7 laps. So the amp draw is not as high as your calcs would suggest.

          Unfortunately, with those Gens Ace 8500mah packs you posted a link to, the 4mm plugs melt off in the packs during a race. At least every other hardcase pack like them has, when people have tried them.
          Plus two of them to make a 4s pack, in Australian dollars is $272.00, plus postage. Way too expensive for my taste.
          An HRB 6000mah 50c -100c pack is AU$85.00 to my doorstep.
          Unfortunately, economics plays a huge role in this game.
          Last edited by 785boats; 02-23-2019, 06:12 PM. Reason: wrong price for the HRB pack.
          See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
          http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
          http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

          Comment

          • UpsideDown
            Junior Member
            • Feb 2019
            • 14

            #20
            Thanks mate for the prop suggestions.

            This it the pack I have lying around at home which I'm hoping to use. Too much? too heavy for that hull?

            https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ck-w-xt90.html

            Regarding the brass tube. Do you normally pull the teflon liner out and grease the shaft? Or just leave the liner in and oil the shaft. I'm used to running the brass tube all the way through the stinger and then jam a speedmaster flanged bush. I can't handle those lead teflon bushes.

            Comment

            • rol243
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Apr 2017
              • 1038

              #21
              The flexshaft may become abit too sloppy if the liner is removed from shaft log. either replace the log with a smaller inside diameter if you don,t want to use a liner or leave the liner in and just cut it short to house the floating strut bushing. oil or grease is personal preference.

              Comment

              • 785boats
                Wet Track Racing
                • Nov 2008
                • 3169

                #22
                Those packs will be fine if the weight is correct.

                I have built boats both with & without liners. I personally prefer the liners.
                So if you want the liner to remain, simply cut a short piece of 1/4" tube to fit into the stinger & use the floating bush.
                If you don't want to use the liner you must, as Roland said, remove the stuffing tube & replace with a smaller 1/4" tube.
                That is of course, if the flex shaft is 3/16". Have you measured it?

                I don't like the idea of running the stuffing tube all the way through the stinger or strut. It makes it impossible to adjust the angle of them to trim the boat.
                I always make the tube long enough, out of the transom, to enter the stinger or strut by about 10mm, and use a separate piece of 1/4 tube in the strut for the floating bush if I am using one of them.

                Here's a bit of a thread from some time ago, that might interest you.

                https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...rstorm-Pursuit
                See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
                http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
                http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

                Comment

                • Speed3
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2017
                  • 371

                  #23
                  A motor you can try with the flycolor 150 is a leopard 4092 1730 kV and a octura m447 prop. That's a fast 4s setup. A tp 4060 1950kv with a m545 is a little faster than the leopard setup that I mentioned above but I am not sure the flycolor 150 can handle a full race without issues.

                  For that reason I suggest the leopard 4092 1730kv, paired with a m447.

                  Comment

                  • UpsideDown
                    Junior Member
                    • Feb 2019
                    • 14

                    #24
                    Paul that thread was great

                    I like the idea of a higher kv motor and a smaller prop but yes your suggestions are great. Regarding the teflon liner, if you haven't had much issues with it, I might sick with it then.

                    I'm trying to finish a shopping list. I'm thinking

                    1) Leopard 4074 2200kv
                    2) Swordfish 220A https://rcboatbitz.com/product/sword...v=6cc98ba2045f Joe doesn't have it in stock so I'm looking around.
                    3) safety loop
                    4) 4214/3 prop https://rcboatbitz.com/product/42mm-...v=6cc98ba2045f
                    5) Cooler https://rcboatbitz.com/product/40mm-...v=6cc98ba2045f
                    6) Mounts https://rcboatbitz.com/product/40mm-...v=6cc98ba2045f

                    I am a sucker for 3 bladers, I don't mind losing a bit of top end to gain that extra handling in the corners.


                    I really like your idea of stiffening the hull with carbon tubes. How far up the bow did you go with the tubes?

                    Comment

                    • 785boats
                      Wet Track Racing
                      • Nov 2008
                      • 3169

                      #25
                      Actually over the last couple of years I have been leaning towards lower kv motors & larger more efficient props on my bigger boats. this tends to reduce the amp draw a bit.
                      But in the smaller hulls like the Pursuit, a prop too large can instill a bit of prop torque & prop steer.
                      The suggestion of Speed3 are also good setups.
                      I have a 33" boat with a TP 4050 2000kv & seaking 180A ESC that runs an M447 or a detongued 445/3 blade. The torque roll is noticeable though.

                      Your shopping list looks good. However, I prefer TP motors over Leopards. The only motors that have failed on me over the years have been Leopards. A TP motor in the same boat with the same setup just keeps on going.

                      The main reason for the carbon fiber tubes is to give more gluing surface for the motormounts & the battery tray. But yes, it also stiffens the hull.

                      Why not pay a visit to the club you are going to be racing with & see what sort of setups they use in this class. I'm sure they will be helpful.
                      See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
                      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
                      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

                      Comment

                      • Speed3
                        Senior Member
                        • Mar 2017
                        • 371

                        #26
                        I have recorded data on many motors in different sizes, many different size props.

                        What I have learned is the different can sizes and kV has they place.

                        I suggested the 4092 1730kv and the m447 because the it was stated that a battery capacity limit of 5000 to 6000mah is involved and also the op started he has a flysky 150 ESC.

                        The 4074 2200kv paired with a 4214 3 blade will draw more amps than the 4092 1730kv paired with a m447.

                        And it is likely to the significantly slower.

                        I can see the 4074 2200 reving 23500 to 24000 rpm loaded with the 4214 3 blade prop. Maybe even lower, depending on the electrical connection and quality of battery.

                        The 4092 1730 will rev around 23000 to 23500 rpm loaded with the m447.

                        The m447 will be more efficient than the 42mm prop.

                        So the two motors reving close loaded except one is turning a bigger more efficient prop and pulling less amps.

                        The 4092 will also turning the smaller prop a little faster, just as fast or a little faster than the 4074 2200 loaded. But have much more runtime.

                        Now the 4074 2200 has it's place where it would be superior. If you was running a 25 to 26 inch boat turning a 37 or 38mm prop then the 4074 2200 would be much faster.

                        The important thing with running the bigger prop is getting your trim tabs set right.

                        Comment

                        • UpsideDown
                          Junior Member
                          • Feb 2019
                          • 14

                          #27
                          Speed 3, your logic/experience makes perfect sense. I will be upgrading to the swordfish 220A ESC when I can find one in stock in Oz.

                          Thanks again for your advice, it will be a nice learning curve for me.

                          Comment

                          • UpsideDown
                            Junior Member
                            • Feb 2019
                            • 14

                            #28
                            Holy mother of all hooks. Is this normal for the pursuit?! There's a hook on one side and a bulge on the other. To sand it down I think I'll find myself inside the hull.

                            IMG_20190228_182602.jpg

                            Comment

                            • 785boats
                              Wet Track Racing
                              • Nov 2008
                              • 3169

                              #29
                              That one needs filling.
                              Is the rocker on the other side, right under where something has been glued into the hull on the inside?

                              The three pursuits that I have built up haven't had that. But I start with bare hulls.
                              See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
                              http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
                              http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

                              Comment

                              • UpsideDown
                                Junior Member
                                • Feb 2019
                                • 14

                                #30
                                yep I suspected so. I kept looking inside to see what was pulling the bottom but there's absolutely nothing.


                                Do you use gel coat filler? and then a bit of clear coat on top once the bottom is true

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