M/l boatworks 1/10 scale hydroplane build 121
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Hi Ron.
I used 2 part eco foam in that pic. But in my last few builds I have just been using that white coolite packing foam. Like in the pic below. But any lightweight foam board will do.
Expanding foam can cause problems by expanding more after the decks are added on. And sometimes shrinking and sucking in the skins & ridepads, leaving hollows between the framework. That has happened to me.
Here's a pic with the white packing foam.
004.jpgSee the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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I simply lay a piece of butchers paper over the frames of the panel I want, & crease the paper along the edges of the chines, frames, stringers etc.
Then draw it a bit bigger and cut it out. Mark it out on the ply & then cut & trim to suit.
Here's what I mean with the paper & the creases.
001.jpgSee the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Ok good idea I will do it that way thank you. This boat, a vintage 60s hydroplane, I Plan to run it in a club, up in the pacific n.w (classic thunder) in a vintage class, it's supposed to go counter clockwise, what rudder assembly would you recommend? I got in on a club buy and have a scorpion brushless motor coming for it but i have no internals other than that so far.
Regards ronLast edited by RON F; 01-22-2019, 08:45 AM.Comment
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If you are going to race it in a club, there are certain rules governing strut,motor, turn fin etc. As I've never set up a left turning 1/10 scale hydro, I cant offer any definitive advice.
All I can say is that for the ones I've built, for right turning, I've used the Speedmaster 20 strut and rudder.
The other guys on this thread, and forum, will be able to help you. Some of them race 1/10 scale.
They'll chime in shortly, I'm sure.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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