CA Glue Alternative

[Shooter]

Unfortunately, the CA glue that I use (UFO) has been discontinued. It was a high quality odorless CA that worked very well for tacking wood frames together.

Does anyone have an alternative method for tacking down frames? It's just a temporary tack, but requires enough strength for sanding and forming.

I was thinking of thinning down west systems and using a syringe. Has anyone had any success with this? What thinner did you use?

Thanks!

[rol243]

there are other good brands of CA glues. can you try another brand other than UFO ?

[30nitro]

I use Gorilla..impact tough super from Lowes....works great..!

[JestDanny]

I keep a bottle of Gorilla in house at all times great stuff, many uses.

[Shooter]

Is Gorilla glue pretty thin?

I just found a penetrating/wicking glue called 'Super Phatic' that is odorless. Video was pretty impressive. Claims it is perfect for laser cut material. Might be just what I need.

My biggest worry is when I go to start glassing all the joints with West, that there will be a compatibility issue and the whole thing falls apart. I've been around too long not to worry about such things! Lol!

[rol243]

The main thing you must do with lazer cut wood is firstly before any glueing is to remove the black soot from the lazer heat burn as glues don,t stick very well to this surface. I use Zap c.a. glues which come in thin / medium / thick plus they also have the odorless types. all good with west systems etc etc.

[sailr]

The main thing you must do with lazer cut wood is firstly before any glueing is to remove the black soot from the lazer heat burn as glues don,t stick very well to this surface. I use Zap c.a. glues which come in thin / medium / thick plus they also have the odorless types. all good with west systems etc etc.

I use ZAP too. Now I know why it won't glue the airplane I'm building!

[rol243]

yes I learnt this lesson after finishing a nice model and after a couple of runs I noticed the decking etc was starting to crack at the seam joins. pulled the deck off so easy and found the glue did not adhere good enough to the surface. I now go around all lazer cut areas with a sharp razor blade and scrape off the black soot as much as it will come off. lazer is good but some cutters need to control there power settings I feel.

[ray schrauwen]

I like Mercury brand.

https://www.mercuryadhesives.com/

[sailr]

I just went right back to good ole Titebond. Not as fast but sure does hold and it sands better too.

yes I learnt this lesson after finishing a nice model and after a couple of runs I noticed the decking etc was starting to crack at the seam joins. pulled the deck off so easy and found the glue did not adhere good enough to the surface. I now go around all lazer cut areas with a sharp razor blade and scrape off the black soot as much as it will come off. lazer is good but some cutters need to control there power settings I feel.

[Doug Smock]

I like Mercury brand.

https://www.mercuryadhesives.com/

Their high performance product is incredible.

[ray schrauwen]

Their high performance product is incredible.

Made in USA.

Maga....

[jantagg]

I use G/Flex Liquid Apoxy in building my boats any where I can clamp the wood together. I have never seen glued parts come apart using G/Flex whereas I have with CA or other apoxies.

[Shooter]

Thanks for the input guys. The "super phatic" was a bust. It wicked into the joint well, but it was somewhat flexible afterwards. I need something that holds position.

Sounds like zap has problems on laser edges? UFO did not (as long as it wasn't burnt to a crisp!!).

I'll try the Mercury stuff next! Then titebond (although I'd rather use something thin to wick).

[pescador]

I’ve been using UV cure resins for fly tying the last few years, they come in a variety of thicknesses and cure instantly when you hit it with the light and hardens like epoxy.
I haven’t tried it for tacking wood kits but I’m thinking it might work pretty well, I’ll have to get a new kit and try it out lol.


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