How to battle the infamous mono single torque roll?

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  • Hotrods
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2010
    • 281

    #1

    How to battle the infamous mono single torque roll?

    Anyone out there have any tricks up their sleeve to battle the torque roll on single motor mono? I have tried offset weight to the starboard side and small props. Any suggestions?

    This a sport boat let that be clear---
    44 step bottom mono
    5692 1090kv
    10-12S
    SF240
    been running X447 round ear
  • CraigP
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • May 2017
    • 1464

    #2
    I run the outside corner of my trim plate down lower. The plates are not square across the bottom. This is a much smaller boat, 29”, so not sure how effective it will be with a big boy. But worth a try, I would suspect...
    Attached Files

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    • fweasel
      master of some
      • Jul 2016
      • 4281

      #3
      Offsetting the propshaft to the right of the keel line will help, but you'll need to redrill the transom or install a wet well to accomplish that. Too large of a diameter prop, or dull blades can do it too.
      Last edited by fweasel; 11-15-2017, 04:10 PM.
      Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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      • Fluid
        Fast and Furious
        • Apr 2007
        • 8012

        #4
        None of the big monos in my clubs exhibit much if any torque roll, it may be a characteristic of the OP’s hull. How far over does the hull lean? Does it exhibit chine walk too?

        Lowering the trim tab on the right side could help. How about a few pics of the transom.


        .
        ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

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        • rol243
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2017
          • 1038

          #5
          also a nice sharp and well balanced prop does help.

          Comment

          • martin
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2010
            • 2887

            #6
            Originally posted by CraigP
            I run the outside corner of my trim plate down lower. The plates are not square across the bottom. This is a much smaller boat, 29”, so not sure how effective it will be with a big boy. But worth a try, I would suspect...
            Craig is you right hand trim tab fitted lower down the transom than the inner edge of that tab or is it just lowered by the adjusting screw pushing the rear tip lower.

            Comment

            • CraigP
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • May 2017
              • 1464

              #7
              The trim is mounted square across the transom. Yes, it’s the adjusting screw that skews it. It is not lower than the back of the transom, that would create drag running straight. This is an old K Racing Runabout trick... The plate was called a Cavitation Plate, articulated with a foot pedal by the driver. Those boats turned left, so they would set the static turnbuckles to bias the left outside edge lower to help hold the boat up in the turns and help reduce catching a chine, which is a bad thing!

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              • Hotrods
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2010
                • 281

                #8
                Originally posted by Fluid
                None of the big monos in my clubs exhibit much if any torque roll, it may be a characteristic of the OP’s hull. How far over does the hull lean? Does it exhibit chine walk too?

                Lowering the trim tab on the right side could help. How about a few pics of the transom.


                .
                IMG_2523.jpg

                CG is at 30%, yes it chine walks, it will lay on the port side at full throttle, now I do realize that I have a ton of power in a boat of this size and this could be a lot of it. Just trying to tune it out.
                Last edited by Hotrods; 11-15-2017, 04:56 PM.

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                • martin
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Aug 2010
                  • 2887

                  #9
                  That looks to be a very narrow hull for a 44" boat looking at the layout of the hardware or is the picture deceiving.

                  Comment

                  • CraigP
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • May 2017
                    • 1464

                    #10
                    Ahhh, I see... The trim only has a single screw adjustment... seems to boat could use a longer trim, what do you guys think? For me, I like them moved out, closer to the sides... Can get more turn reaction there.

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                    • Hotrods
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2010
                      • 281

                      #11
                      Originally posted by martin
                      That looks to be a very narrow hull for a 44" boat looking at the layout of the hardware or is the picture deceiving.
                      I do have a large 1/4 inch drive and large rudder as well, but the hull is 9" wide

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                      • CraigP
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • May 2017
                        • 1464

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Hotrods
                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]154953[/ATTACH]

                        CG is at 30%, yes it chine walks, it will lay on the port side at full throttle, now I do realize that I have a ton of power in a boat of this size and this could be a lot of it. Just trying to tune it out.
                        That’s interesting, prop torque should raise the port side. You got a big motor, but motor torque only reacts on the boat during accelerations mostly, whereas prop torque is constant, well, as long as the prop is in the water!

                        Does the boat rest on a table pretty evenly on its keel? It won’t stay there, but you can tell if is side weighted. I had to add ballast to the port to compensate for the servo/rudder gear on the right. If it’s got a weight bias in it, then you get all kinds of dynamic reactions, like prop torque, interacting with the static weight distribution. Funny things can happen... CG sounds about right to me.

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                        • rol243
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Apr 2017
                          • 1038

                          #13
                          the total drive line from motor / shaft / stinger should be moved over to the Starboard Side by up to 1/4 inch. this will make life alot harder for the prop torque to lift the left Port Side. lowering the trim tab on Port side will help but will also add drag to the hull. the prop looks to be high in Pitch so maybe you could also try a prop with less pitch and see how she goes.

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                          • Hotrods
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2010
                            • 281

                            #14
                            That is what I thought as well on the torque, this could be more of a prop rotation issue as well. Yes all the steps on the keel touch on a flat surface.

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                            • Hotrods
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2010
                              • 281

                              #15
                              Originally posted by rol243
                              the total drive line from motor / shaft / stinger should be moved over to the Starboard Side by up to 1/4 inch. this will make life alot harder for the prop torque to lift the left Port Side. lowering the trim tab on Port side will help but will also add drag to the hull. the prop looks to be high in Pitch so maybe you could also try a prop with less pitch and see how she goes.
                              Yes I will be trying some 14 series props this weekend, any other suggestions on props? The prop is the picture is a stainless 235 it created a lot of transom lift in my opinion

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