New project 41 inch mono

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  • martin
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Aug 2010
    • 2887

    #16
    Im afraid HK are renowned for incorrect specs, even if you inform them of incorrect specs they still don't up date their site. Even the Pursuit specs say 4mm drive shaft which is also totally wrong. Re shaft size 1/4" is over kill, 3/16" is more than enough.

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    • Old School
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2017
      • 686

      #17
      Many thanks

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      • 785boats
        Wet Track Racing
        • Nov 2008
        • 3169

        #18
        I used to run the Osprey with the Neu 1527/1y motor that Fluid mentioned in his post. There were a few in our club. I ran a Seaking 180 ESC with an X447/3 prop. Great speed & great handling.
        But bear in mind we can only run 1P in our boats here in Australia, so with your 2P setups & a larger prop you will need the larger ESC too.
        There was never a problem with the 3/16" shaft in this boat or in any of the other guys boats. Or any of the Delta Force monos either.
        Keep in mind that the lower kv motors like the 1250kv 1527/1y will allow you to run larger, more efficient props
        See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
        http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
        http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

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        • Old School
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2017
          • 686

          #19
          Many thanks

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          • Peter A
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2012
            • 1486

            #20
            I am running the Leo 4092 1390kv motor in a 42" mono with a V2 T-180. While there has been a lack of on water time recently, I have raced it sucessfully against the gassers in our club and it holds it's own. Currently up to a Prather 240 and GPS speed of 88 kph, with the hull running stable. The hull looks to have seducer styling in the bottom with a ride pad, so it can be somewhat flighty and tend to bow steer. I deliberately used a speedmaster stinger as it is height adjustable, with a flood tube. Lifting the stinger right up has taken out the chine walk and allowed bigger prop use comfortably. A few more prop tests yet to go. I use this boat just for racing so perhaps a little out of what you are wanting to achieve, but the motor you are looking at works fine in a hull this size, and if you aim for speeds in the 70-75 kph range you should get reasonable runtimes (esp. on 2P) and a boat the runs and performs well.
            I have to say that what seems to have gotten lost lately is the recommended rpms for sport running and racing. Around 24K for sport and 30K for racing in general works well in keeping things reliable. Serious racers learn where they can push the boundaries, but for fun play boats 35K is just asking for trouble, not to mention excessive wear and tear on the running gear, ecs's and hardware. The old KISS principle! I see so many guys with the mindset that more power must make them go faster, sometimes it does, but at a cost. Learning how to tune a boat and find the right prop will get much better gains with a lot less wasted money.
            NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
            2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
            BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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            • Old School
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2017
              • 686

              #21
              Peter,
              many thanks. I was concerned with the 3/16" flexshafts as there are numerous examples on You-Tube of stock boats with failed drives. However, these were all relatively inexpensive RTR boats and not purpose built race craft with obviously higher quality materials. The shafts could most likely have been the 4 mm shaft favoured by inexpensive RTR manufacturers.

              I suppose it is the engineer in me that wants to build an indestructible boat that I favour a 1/4" drive, however as I have found, matching a 5 mm motor shaft to a 1/4" flexshaft is a no go. I have been unable to find such a coupler. Thus by default I either downsize to a 3/16" flexshaft and use the 4092 or I upsize to 1/4" and use a 56 series motor. Examples to date indicate that the 4092 is a more than capable motor in this size hull and most likely a 56XX series motor is simply wishful thinking.

              Comment

              • Peter A
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2012
                • 1486

                #22
                You will not have a problem with 3/16" flex and the 4092 motor if set up well. I run a TP 4060 1620kv in my Q hydro with a much longer flex and no problems, and I get my flexes from OSE, no breakages so far. Keep them well lubricated and looked after and they will last. Trust your engineering know how and build in the things that keep reliability. You should be able to drop the motor in the existing mount (just make sure the water jacket you get isn't too long) and replace the original flex with a better one. If you are not pushing amp boundaries, the OSE raider may be sufficient esc, there have been issues with the V3 t-180, so a SF220 would be the next stop.
                NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
                2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
                BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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                • Old School
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2017
                  • 686

                  #23
                  I did intend removing the stock drive, including the stinger and replacing with better quality items. Many thanks for your guidance.

                  Comment

                  • Old School
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2017
                    • 686

                    #24
                    My HK "Osprey" arrived this morning. My first impression was that if the boat was not available from the wharehouse in my country then the shipping cost would have been unaffordable. Down to the nitty gritty. The boat as supplied has a beautiful almost blemish free gelcoat (several minute specks of dust in the finish). The motor is a Leopard Hobby 4074 with an aluminium water jacket (currently $80.00usd on OSE). The hardware is your typical TFL CNC clear anodised aluminium commonly seen on eBay. The immediate impression is that this is a well built extremely large boat. The hull is supplied with flotation in the forward half of the hull. The fibreglass cabin is designed so that locks could be fitted to the rear if needed. The transom is reinforced on the inner side with plywood. The stock propellor is a 2-blade 40mm brass casting.

                    Criticisms of the boat -
                    #The cabin moulding does not sit flat to the moulded recess in the hull opening and of cause tape would be essential
                    #The 3/16" flex shaft has a non-threaded end, thus the prop retaining "spinner" is secured by a grub screw only. A flat is machined in the shaft for this.
                    #The flex shaft is the dreaded two piece layout. This will find its way into the garbage bin.
                    #The motor mounts are fibreglass and do not inspire confidence in me. They look rather flimsy, considering the available power from a 40 series motor. Fibreglass cloth has been added each side of the mount rather than the usual epoxy fillet to hold the mounts in place.
                    #the stuffing tube terminates at the transom leaving an exposed gap to the stinger with just the teflon liner showing.
                    #The unstraked pad area on the hull occupies more than one-third of the hull undersurface. I am surprised that the strakes do not extend further aft.
                    #The "ugly" graphics look to be nothing more than printed masking tape and will be lucky to survive the maiden run. This will impress my son as his only criticism of the boat is that the graphics emphasise the toylike looks of the boat.


                    My overall impression is that this is a well built, well presented model that has a lot of potential for upgrading. It will provide an excellent canvas to start with. Over the next few months I will gut the boat, reinforce with carbon fibre and install a 4092 brushless motor, Speedmaster stinger and upgraded 3/16" flexshaft. The existing rudder, trim tabs and turnfins will be reinstalled.

                    The stock Leopard motor, no doubt, will find a new home in the future plus the removed stinger (and possibly the stock flexshaft) will be fitted to a current 70 cm mono I am rebuilding. Thus when the costs of these items is removed from the initial cost of the boat, the model represents excellent value.


                    Edit: as supplied the stuffing tube would have leaked like a sieve.
                    Last edited by Old School; 10-10-2017, 09:31 PM. Reason: Additional information

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