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Many thanks. I believe this hull was stored in a dark environment so hopefully no damage.
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If the hull is painted it will protect form UV. If it is the hard plastic (injected) and not formed it is a lot stronger. I sugest that a thin layer of FG or CF is layed on the inside to reinforce the plastic. Make sure you know exactly what material you are dealing with when choosing adhesive.Comment
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Old School , i think it would be good for both yourself and your son if you did take on this hull mod as your never to old to play with boats and theres alot of water around you when boating . you must have a hobby / interest.Comment
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I have a similar 80's hull, it too is ABS plastic and I didnt feel it was capable of handling the power and stress I intended so I reinforced the hull ...
I laid in some fiberglass cloth and painted it in place with plumbers abs glue 1 good soak coat....this when dried adhered to the hull well and the glass cloth was still very porous, I then epoxied a sheet of 1/8 ply to the transom .. I then painted in a very thick coat of epoxy over all the cloth inside the hull, now the hull is considerably much stronger than previously and handles the abuse I put it thru....
it was worth the effortComment
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Many thanks to all.Comment
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I took the plunge (point of no return) this morning and ground out the stock 3 mm drive shaft stuffing tube where it enters the hull interior and where it exits the skeg). One thing that I am reluctant to do is remove the drive "skeg" on the boat underside (seen in photo in third posting above). How will the skeg impact on the surface drive, please? A little voice inside me thinks it may improve directional stability but have an adverse effect in turns. That said, surface drives do not have this "fin" on the undersurface.Comment
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Can you cut that whole thing out, FG patch and fill, and go with a transom mounted stinger? That really looks like a high drag driveline to me... It's a mono, and they're supposed to ride on the very back. This hull can't do that with the strut the way it is... am I missing something here?Comment
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I am now going with a transom mounted stinger, having this morning removed all trace of the stuffing tube on the inside of the hull, but am reluctant to remove the old driveline skeg unless absolutely necessary. I could remove the "skeg" but am concerned impacting on the integrity of the hull.Comment
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If the hole is bigger than a 1/4" across, you can shape a piece of basswood and create a fill, then FG that in. FG on outside and inside, it will be plenty strong. I would make the wood piece fit from the inside with a overhang so you can sand flush with the outside. Once all done the new stuffing tube should just fit over the top of it. You can do this!Comment
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Many thanks. I know that I can do it but I take of bit of convincing before doing so.Comment
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You can't do anything that bad that some FG and Bondo can't fix. Just try to make the cutout as small as you can. I would use a fill piece, because the FG needs something to support it. Depending on your motor location, this could be 1/2 of a stuffing box support! That helps to hold down flex vibration a lot...Comment
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I would cut it and put masking tape on the surface. Then fiberglass the inside after the FG has set then sand and bondo the low areas. You are right the stuffing tube skeg will cause troubles in the turns. get rid of it.Comment
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Many thanks. I bit the bullet this morning and removed all traces of the stuffing tube skeg. Now awaiting some resin and fibreglass to carry out the repair. While I am at it I will reinforce the interior of the transom as it will now be supporting both the stinger drive and the rudder mount.Last edited by Old School; 09-02-2017, 08:07 PM.Comment
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This is the 20 plus year old moulded ABS hull that I am in the process of bringing up to today's standards. Perhaps the maker may jog someone's memory.Comment
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