connectors still getting warm

[Drkrieger]

upgraded my ESC to the OSE raider 150Amp, based off of recommendations here.. thanks guys, it is a vast improvement. many programming options i did not have before.

The concern I have is that after changing out the ESC, I also put new 6mm bullet connectors on everything. They are still getting a bit warmer than I was expecting. I have gone through the flex shaft, greased it as usual. Checked for any other factors that "I" think may be causing this. But I have not found anything.

The hardware is a Grim 42x55 de-tongued thinned and balanced prop, brand new strut and bushing. No binding at all.

Any ideas?

[Mxkid261]

How "warm" is warm? Do you have a temp gun to get actual temps? What boat and motor? Voltage?

[Drkrieger]

102°F. MG29 V2. Stock motor. 1500kv 3650. 4s.

[Mxkid261]

What were they prior? That seem's pretty normal, I usually see connector temps around there on most of my stuff. 4s or 6s?

[fweasel]

102*F... I would only be alarmed if ambient temps were hovering around 5*F.

[Drkrieger]

It was about 8 mins after the run when i temp gunned it.. so I would imagine it to be a bit warmer. The previous XT60's were getting to about 120° ish. so respectable amount lower i guess. Running 4s

[Tamelesstgr]

Length of the battery wire and how well you soldered the connection can affect the connector heating up, but 102 is very much fine IMO

[Drkrieger]

Shortened all wires for a slack of 2-3 inches. soldering is Grade A. Have tons of experience there. So I guess I am being a bit of a nervous nelly. Now on to chose a Prop that fits this boat a bit better..

I was looking at something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/VXP-4mm-BV64...item2a5ad3da29

[Fluid]

Hmmmm, what makes you think you need a tweaked (poorly) aluminum prop instead of a more rational design? The Barr-cut is a bandaid for the wrong design prop, and a great source of prop failure. Years ago I had two different "prop experts" (both are often recommended on this forum) each make a Barr-cut prop for me for two different boatsin BeCu. Both had blades which cracked at the cut after less than a dozen runs. These guys certainly know what they are doing, so my conclusion is this is a poor mod for FE boats. It reduces thrust and load onthe motor, good for gas and nitro, not needed on FE. I tried the mod on a SAW boat a couple times, usually lost speed. And the props cracked.

With the plethora of props available in this size range, I recommend spending your $$$ on a better design. Octura and ABC and even CDC come to mind. Have a pro cup the trailing edge on the first two if you like.


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[iop65]

Cnc: tenshock!

[Fluid]

Cnc: tenshock!

Normally not my choice, but most are direct copies of proven Octura designs. No bogus bending, chopping, cupping, hype, etc. I don't use them, but many have had very good luck with them at a lower finished price than Octura or ABC. Your choice.


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[Mxkid261]

I would put an m445 on it contact Chris (dasboata). Probably be around $50-60 shipped. Steve sometimes has some s/b props in the store but they go pretty quick when they're in stock.

[martin]

The barr cut certainly unloads the prop but gives less bite, my experience has been the same as Fluids that the blades can crack across the root of the blade. They were probably ok back in the day but with the increase in power & rpm are not really a suitable mod today.

[Drkrieger]

I would put an m445 on it contact Chris (dasboata). Probably be around $50-60 shipped. Steve sometimes has some s/b props in the store but they go pretty quick when they're in stock.

I have sent Chris a PM, hopefully he has something for me. Thanks man

[Mxkid261]

I have sent Chris a PM, hopefully he has something for me. Thanks man

Sure thing! Rocket city racing has s/b prop's in stock too sometimes.