OSE 150 amp, or the Seaking 120A V3

[Drkrieger]

I have a MG 29, and am picking up a LEO 4074 1800KV, maybe 2000kv motor.

Would the OSE raider 150A, or the Seaking 120A V3 be better for this?

[Fluid]

While either will probably work, it is usually a good idea to have some headroom. Put too big a prop on that motor and you can easily get over 120 amps. Of the two, my vote goes to the Raider.


.

[Mxkid261]

Raider without a doubt.

[Drkrieger]

OK cool

I am running a 42x55 grim now. de-tongued sharpened and balanced on the stock power system. V2 MG29. If i run that prop on a 1800 - 2000kv motor and the raider that seems acceptable.

I should get like 65mph??

[Drkrieger]

on 4s battery set up.. sorry

[Insanity Plea]

Not that I suggest it but I've had the raider hold over 150 amps, it's been pretty tough so far for me in a hydro.
I don't think you'll see 65 with that set up, just my opinion. My daughter has the mg3 and I've only ran it a few times so far, I've got a 3674 2075kv on 4s2p 5000 batteries and it seems to like x440/3 the best to get 40mph out of it. The m442 was just behind and X642 below that for 37mph. Sponsons haven't been sanded but I got the whaa whaas out of it and it's quick enough for her. I've got some 2s batteries to run in series to test, should be a pound lighter. I'm hoping I can tune it to 45mph eventually.
If you want to see 60s, you might want to research a 6s setup.

[Drkrieger]

Not that I suggest it but I've had the raider hold over 150 amps, it's been pretty tough so far for me in a hydro.
I don't think you'll see 65 with that set up, just my opinion. My daughter has the mg3 and I've only ran it a few times so far, I've got a 3674 2075kv on 4s2p 5000 batteries and it seems to like x440/3 the best to get 40mph out of it. The m442 was just behind and X642 below that for 37mph. Sponsons haven't been sanded but I got the whaa whaas out of it and it's quick enough for her. I've got some 2s batteries to run in series to test, should be a pound lighter. I'm hoping I can tune it to 45mph eventually.
If you want to see 60s, you might want to research a 6s setup.

Hmmm. I was able to get porpoising out of it by grinding out the strut mount hole, and going to a shallow dual rudder set up. Adding a bit of negative thrust angle

I always thought 3 blade was best for lift on a hydro, not speed in a cat.. but hey, everything is worth a try.

I am running 2 gens ace 7kmah 100C 2s batteries in series with the stock power and the grim 42x55. clocked at 38MPH. So maybe I could see around 45 or so. at I hope.

[iop65]

you got the mg v2 or 3?

[iop65]

Running 4s, you would be beter off with more kv
rpm: 35000-38000 unloaded ,thats what i try to get

[Bp9145]

Leo 4074 2200KV with the Raider 150A would get you more speed on 4S. Also get the programming box along with the Raider as it would be helpful. To start with try m445 or X642 and your 42 X 55 should be fine but make sure your props are sharpened and balanced well to get the most out of it. Also I would sharpen the rudder's sharp edge. Then find the right placement of your batteries so when you run the boat at high speeds it looks like it will almost flip over but without flipping it over. This will take some trial and error but when you finally get that balance the boat will seem to glide just above the water. If you run out of room to move your batteries forward or backwards on the battery trays try adjusting your strut up or down at very small increments, in mm, until you can finally get that balance where the boat looks like it wants to flip over but it doesn't. If you don't mind sanding the bottom of your sponsors, blueprinting, you can get additional speeds but most of all the boat will run or handle much better.There's lots of information and tutorial on how to blueprint your sponsons. With experimentations on all these factors, not only will you get the most out of your boat but you will learn a few things along the way. . .how to setup and tune your boat, what prop works best, how it handles and its characteristics on different water conditions, learning how to drive your boat to the edge without flipping over . . .etc. Also, it's important to check your temperatures on your motor, esc and batteries to make sure they are not very hot and within safe limits when changing from one prop to another. You can do this by making a couple of high speed passes then bring it in and check the temps. Also, I don't know what connectors you are using but check that as well because you might want to change it if it's super hot, otherwise, sooner or later it unsolder itself off if it's unable to handle the high current or voltage going through it. I would recommend 5mm-6.5mm bullets like EC5s or Castle green 6.5 or something along that line. Also it wouldn't hurt to change your cooling lines to bigger inner diameter to get more water flowing to your motor and esc. You can even add another cooling line so you will have one for the motor and one for the esc. I know I've given you more than what you were asking so you don't have to do all this to get full enjoyment of your boat but it will help bring you closer your goal.

[kfxguy]

Hmmm. I was able to get porpoising out of it by grinding out the strut mount hole, and going to a shallow dual rudder set up. Adding a bit of negative thrust angle

I always thought 3 blade was best for lift on a hydro, not speed in a cat.. but hey, everything is worth a try.

I am running 2 gens ace 7kmah 100C 2s batteries in series with the stock power and the grim 42x55. clocked at 38MPH. So maybe I could see around 45 or so. at I hope.

The problem I see there is your using the wrong prop. Use an abc 1715-17-45

[Drkrieger]

The problem I see there is your using the wrong prop. Use an abc 1715-17-45

Is this due to the face rake angle being directed toward the center more?

[Drkrieger]

Leo 4074 2200KV with the Raider 150A would get you more speed on 4S. Also get the programming box along with the Raider as it would be helpful. To start with try m445 or X642 and your 42 X 55 should be fine but make sure your props are sharpened and balanced well to get the most out of it. Also I would sharpen the rudder's sharp edge. Then find the right placement of your batteries so when you run the boat at high speeds it looks like it will almost flip over but without flipping it over. This will take some trial and error but when you finally get that balance the boat will seem to glide just above the water. If you run out of room to move your batteries forward or backwards on the battery trays try adjusting your strut up or down at very small increments, in mm, until you can finally get that balance where the boat looks like it wants to flip over but it doesn't. If you don't mind sanding the bottom of your sponsors, blueprinting, you can get additional speeds but most of all the boat will run or handle much better.There's lots of information and tutorial on how to blueprint your sponsons. With experimentations on all these factors, not only will you get the most out of your boat but you will learn a few things along the way. . .how to setup and tune your boat, what prop works best, how it handles and its characteristics on different water conditions, learning how to drive your boat to the edge without flipping over . . .etc. Also, it's important to check your temperatures on your motor, esc and batteries to make sure they are not very hot and within safe limits when changing from one prop to another. You can do this by making a couple of high speed passes then bring it in and check the temps. Also, I don't know what connectors you are using but check that as well because you might want to change it if it's super hot, otherwise, sooner or later it unsolder itself off if it's unable to handle the high current or voltage going through it. I would recommend 5mm-6.5mm bullets like EC5s or Castle green 6.5 or something along that line. Also it wouldn't hurt to change your cooling lines to bigger inner diameter to get more water flowing to your motor and esc. You can even add another cooling line so you will have one for the motor and one for the esc. I know I've given you more than what you were asking so you don't have to do all this to get full enjoyment of your boat but it will help bring you closer your goal.

I am currently using XT60 connectors that are great. get very slightly warm after a really fast run, or rough water. The boat is quite light on the water now, but always room for improvement. I have the prop strut a bit lower than bottom of boat. Like 3mm. It is a sweet spot between speed and venting in the turns a bit higher.


I always welcome a good read for new tactics. Thanks. Good write up.

[Bp9145]

I am currently using XT60 connectors that are great. get very slightly warm after a really fast run, or rough water. The boat is quite light on the water now, but always room for improvement. I have the prop strut a bit lower than bottom of boat. Like 3mm. It is a sweet spot between speed and venting in the turns a bit higher.


I always welcome a good read for new tactics. Thanks. Good write up.

with the XT60 it's only rated at 65a and with setup you plan to put in there you will definitely be pulling more than 65A, more like in 120A or more so it would be advisable to change connectors on your batteries/esc that would handle high current applications. . .EC5 will handle 120A and CC greens 6.5 will handle up to 200A current. . .your electronics will benefit with connectors able to handle more than your current 60A XT60s.

[kfxguy]

with the XT60 it's only rated at 65a and with setup you plan to put in there you will definitely be pulling more than 65A, more like in 120A or more so it would be advisable to change connectors on your batteries/esc that would handle high current applications. . .EC5 will handle 120A and CC greens 6.5 will handle up to 200A current. . .your electronics will benefit with connectors able to handle more than your current 60A XT60s.

Agreed.


I used the 1715 prop on the last Geico I built and there was no porpoiseing. Just smooth running.