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  • T.S.Davis
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Oct 2009
    • 6221

    #31
    Originally posted by CraigP
    Right now, the guy with the deepest pockets is going to win most the time.
    This is absolutely not true. Get out there and race at a dozen races a year and you'll have a point of reference. At the Michigan Cup race an ML Boatworks GP310 on a budget setup beat a GP310 with a $1000 Lehner setup. It has done so in back to back years too.

    The rules weren't written to provide cost control. The size limits are there to provide parity. Frankly, the implication that the rules of either organization were written to line the pockets of suppliers is extremely offensive.
    Noisy person

    Comment

    • Bp9145
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jan 2016
      • 1466

      #32
      Originally posted by T.S.Davis
      This is absolutely not true. Get out there and race at a dozen races a year and you'll have a point of reference. At the Michigan Cup race an ML Boatworks GP310 on a budget setup beat a GP310 with a $1000 Lehner setup. It has done so in back to back years too.

      The rules weren't written to provide cost control. The size limits are there to provide parity. Frankly, the implication that the rules of either organization were written to line the pockets of suppliers is extremely offensive.
      I've always thought that even though a nice high end setup is nice and if you can afford the best equipment it is ultimately the best driver will win most of the time. Now I'm speaking about a oval race not saw runs. It's not like a high end stereo equipment where the best truly has it's advantages. But in this case, although it doesn't hurt to have the best equipment anything can happen in the race and a great driver with lots of experience, good instincts, quick reflex and able to read the water. . .etc will out do a boat outfitted with the best but with a less experienced driver. But not only that, I've seen boats with less costly equipment beat boats with better equipments regardless of driver experience. There's also the factor of setting it up or tuning it which I think plays a great factor. So I agree the best equipped or with deep pockets will not always come on top most of the time. I think set up, tuning it to perfection and other secrets that some do not care to share is really key to great success regardless with a $200 gear or with a $2000 gear given it's in the same hull since it obvious a 16" mono would certainly not be able to compete with a 50" mono on very choppy waters no matter how much it has inside it.

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      • CraigP
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • May 2017
        • 1464

        #33
        Terry, that's not what I said and you know it. The limiting of battery voltage forces higher currents. Higher currents break parts. I didn't say there was collusion between rule makers and manufacturers, I said it is a cause and effect. I have raced for years in west coast associations years back, so I know the frustrations in dealing with different sanctions at different events. Burning up expensive parts forces a guy who can't afford the attrition rate out of competition. There are far more sport boaters than comp boats.

        I ran the numbers when I first built the FE boat. I had no interest in tackling the electrical challenges of distributing 150-200A. I do see that the task is much more manageable at 80-100A. A 4s at 200A is putting in the same power as a 8s at 100A. It's called watts, and watts dictates how fast or slow the boat runs. But there is a much higher occurrence of ESC failure at 200A vs. 100A. To argue against that point is just ignorance. Those are facts!

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        • T.S.Davis
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Oct 2009
          • 6221

          #34
          ..................annnnd I'm spent.

          Steven, this is exactly what we were talking about the other day elsewhere.
          Noisy person

          Comment

          • CraigP
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • May 2017
            • 1464

            #35
            Hardrock, search for "DF Vortex 34" on this site. You'll see both the DF and Popeyes. Pay special attention to Properchopper's build, this guy really knows what he's doing. The DF and the Popeye are very close to one another, so the info relates well to both boats. I've laid out a 4-battery 2s pack scheme, so I can wire in full series for 8s or wire 2s/2p for 4s. You'll need the parallel batteries in 4s, because your current drain will be higher. I recommend shooting for 36,000 rpm to start, so that's a 2400-2500kv on 4s and 1250kv on 8s. My boat needs a 4074 minimum and it's really awake with a 4082. My best motor is a Leonard 4082 1250vk. The M445 works good on that hull, with either of those batt/motor combos. These are about 58-62mph setups. Watch the air underneath! Best to you

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            • hardrock2401
              Junior Member
              • Jul 2017
              • 11

              #36
              Will do, the boat already has an upgraded 3674 2200kv. I have a couple extra neu 1515 2200kv motors from the surface world I'm not using. But I don't know enough about this stuff yet to even think about changing much out. Props seem to be the most important thing to learn

              Originally posted by CraigP
              Hardrock, search for "DF Vortex 34" on this site. You'll see both the DF and Popeyes. Pay special attention to Properchopper's build, this guy really knows what he's doing. The DF and the Popeye are very close to one another, so the info relates well to both boats. I've laid out a 4-battery 2s pack scheme, so I can wire in full series for 8s or wire 2s/2p for 4s. You'll need the parallel batteries in 4s, because your current drain will be higher. I recommend shooting for 36,000 rpm to start, so that's a 2400-2500kv on 4s and 1250kv on 8s. My boat needs a 4074 minimum and it's really awake with a 4082. My best motor is a Leonard 4082 1250vk. The M445 works good on that hull, with either of those batt/motor combos. These are about 58-62mph setups. Watch the air underneath! Best to you

              Comment

              • CraigP
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • May 2017
                • 1464

                #37
                2200kv is a great start, and no need to buy! What ESC's do you have? Do you have a marine version already?

                Comment

                • hardrock2401
                  Junior Member
                  • Jul 2017
                  • 11

                  #38
                  The boat still has the stock 120a seaking.

                  Comment

                  • CraigP
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • May 2017
                    • 1464

                    #39
                    That's not enough current to prop up and hit high 50's or low 60's. Your looking at mid 40's. Why don't you start there? Don't try an M445 on 4s. See, this is what started all that hellabalu on the thread earlier. On 8s, you can drop the current if you motor for that voltage, 1250kv as I mentioned before. You're going to need 200a at 4s to hit the 60's. On 8s, I can do it with 100a. Anyhoooo, if you want help on a prop selection, just ask!

                    PS: It's really better to start slower... Sometime we need to compare wattage requirements on your surface cars to the boats. I could use that info to better estimate on the boats, have a good one!

                    Comment

                    • hardrock2401
                      Junior Member
                      • Jul 2017
                      • 11

                      #40
                      I understand that kind of stuff, basically boils down to the same as my surface stuff except with gearing choice rather than prop. I will probably stick with 4s until I get the hang of boats. I have been working a lot of 7am-9pm shifts lately for overtime. So haven't been able to read up a ton lol.

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