I'm running a swordfish pro light 300 castle creation 2028 on 10s it's running 168 A 27,000 RPM for two laps then it falls off to 92 A 20,000 RPMs what could be causing this? Timing is set to auto voltage does not drop
I have an FE question swordfish pro 300
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I would guess that something in the controller is causing the issue. Set the timing for 10* advance and see if that helps, the auto advance may be malfunctioning. If this does not work, disable the LVC and try again. BUT - time the run for two minutes and bring it in. (Be careful if you run without the LVC on, either time your run or run a set number of laps.). Let us know what you find out.
If you are averaging 168 amps on 10S for six laps or more the electronics are not "stone cold" unless the starting and water temps were very very low. You really should invest in a temp gun to quantify the temps. Don't feel bad, too many on here are 'role models' by being very cavalier about reporting temperatures of their electronics. "Ice cold", "cool as a cucumber" and similar phrases are meaningless and defy the laws of physics - assuming the run reports are accurate and particularly in the summer.
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For some reason I saw 5800 packs but if the boat continues to run the same after you try some different settings then I would say your esc is not working correctly and time to try another one to see if that's it. You might also need to cut the shrink wrap of the motor to esc bullets to make sure you don't have a bad solder joint. I had a 10s mono stop after 1 or 2 laps and turned out that one of the bullets on the motor was hanging on by 1 thread.
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