I am starting the build on this boat. I notice in the instructions they say to put the rudder on the left side. Has anyone run this boat with the rudder on the right side? Thanks for any help from those who have built this boat.
On any Sport Hydro, you should put the rudder on the left rear side.
If you put it on the right side, you have your turn fin and now your rudder putting drag on the right side of the hull, making the boat want to turn right.
you also have the prop walk pulling the rear end to the left.
This all would make it a hard boat to setup to go strait.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Old news. Modern hooked turn fins no longer require the loading from the left side rudder that older, straight fins required. The hooked fin can be adjusted to compensate somewhat for drag on the right side. A big disadvantage of the rudder on the left is when attempting a left correction the boat is much more likely to flip than with the rudder on the right. This can mean the difference between finishing a heat with points, or a DNF.
I used to put the rudder on the left....until I got a hooked fin. Now all my sport hydros run a right rudder, and they turn great. But to Mark's actual question, we have had several PT 45s in the club, and as I recall they had the rudder on the left.
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I know, I see a lot of videos of them on the left and that's why I wanted to know if any one has run this boat with fin on the right. I have ML Boatworks hooked SS fin. What a nice fin this is too.
I know, I see a lot of videos of them on the left and that's why I wanted to know if any one has run this boat with fin on the right. I have ML Boatworks hooked SS fin. What a nice fin this is too.
Mark
Most of the SSP45 boat use the left rudder, seen a few run a right side rudder ok.
The left rudder puts the angle of pressure thru the center of the hull. if any left rudder will cause the boat to lift it is the turn fin is not running parallel.
If it is tweeked out it will make the boat flip easily. The back of the fin can be tweeked in towards the centerline of the hull, make it parallel or just in a bit. You can make a figure 8 if the fin is correct, it wont like it but it will do it.
Use a straight edge about a foot long, i made a straight edge about 3 inches wide to lay on the inside of the fin.
Thats a great solution if you have a flexi turn fin. Well after 4 coats of primer and and sanding I'm going to paint the boat now. And at this point if there's any air bubbles left i don't care:)
Great hulls, terrible bubbles! I understand they are better in this regard now than a few years ago. I built a "Sport 21" about 6-7 years ago, used spackle slathered all over, sanded off, repeat. Never got all the bubbles out, but like Mark by then I didn't care! Loved running the boat though.
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Bubble's are a balancing act. I go from too much fillers, to just right to a few bubbles. The first thing vacuum bagging that must be done is to make sure that you do not trap air while installing fillers. Then pushing the fillers around after layed up and in bag will help push out bubbles. When the pump needs oil it is weak and will not pull the air out also. Most of the time I have no bubbles in my boats.
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
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