Paul, you only need a tub of builders bog and a vice to straighten up the flexshaft and a good 3 inch nail for the motor shaft fix. just joking mate.
What did you do to your boat today?
Collapse
X
-
He! He!
Yep. The hole & the cosmetics are simple enough But where do you get new rotors for a TFL SSS 4092 1650kv motor?See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
I'm hoping to buy the rotor separately. I guess it would be wise to put a set of bearings in it too.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
I was just about to reply with that same advice. I suppose it was lucky the shaft sheared before the collet. Had the break occurred in the flex, the internal collateral damage could have been much worse.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
-
Actually guys I did send Joe at RCBB an email asking if he can get one. Just waiting to hear back from him.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
Comment
-
Yowzers! That’s a nuger whampie there! I’ve never seen a motor shaft break, looks like shear carnage... looking at your pics, do you have aluminum skins on your sponsons? I put aluminum on my hydro too! You don’t see that very often either
**This is response to the pics posted of the hydro with the broken motor shaft thread #120**Comment
-
Comment
-
Craig.
It was definitely a solid hit.
The underside of the sponsons you see in the pics are only painted with aluminium paint.
Here's a picture of the top side, and the sponson of the ML Boatworks kit that speared it. Tough boats aren't they.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
Sealed Hatch Vover for DF29
Yesterday I finally built the sealing into the hatch for my DF29 Mono. This was the only boat left that needed hatch tape, which I seem to have a pet peave about. The problem has been that the hatch cover is very flimsy. The boat is thin too... So I had the build a re-in forcing frame around the outside of the hatch cover, so it won’t bend. You need uniform pressure around the closed cell foam rubber for it to work. I built the frame out of light weight basswood, marine epoxied it in, then sealed with clear coat. The adhesive on the tape is pretty weak stuff, so I augment the bond by applying rubber contact cement first. The hold downs are 6-32 blind nuts with the darts bent back flat. I made some plates to fixture the nuts in and give more glueing area for retention. Now it needs the bathtub test with the “waterfall”!Comment
-
Luckily the boat landed upside down (downside up at this end of the world) So there was hardly any water in it.
Nice work on the hatch. I dare say that the waterfall test will be 100% successful.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
Water test was successful! It’s ready for some lake time... Paul, what kind of hull is in your ID picture? Would that be considered a rigger, Hydro? It looks like a four-point hybrid, very nice! I would love to mount the batteries in those sponsons, get that weight spread out... is this a kit you could recommend to me?Comment
Comment