My esc is overloading with my conversion. Help me pick a new motor

[enzo thecat]

I had a setup with a square end flex shaft that fit into a drive shaft within the stinger. I converted it to a flex shaft only (3/8") so I can use different props and loose the drive shaft. Now with the larger props, my esc quickly goes into safe mode when I run full throttle.

I have a SeaKing 180A esc and motor is a Leopard 4092 Motor winds/rpm: - 1730Kv 3D Battery is 6s The new prop I want to run is a Dasboata "1816 BS BC"

Its double cooled and nothing gets hot. I assume the motor is overloaded now.
I cant put my old props (with smaller hubs) on the new shaft because its too thick and also too long.

I figure I could swap the motor out so it can handle the large props and even have more run time in doing so.


What motor should I use? I'd like a high quality one. Thank you.

e

[oscarel]

Most prop shafts are 3/16 or 1/4. What boat are you working with? How are you measuring temp of esc? Is it going into safe mode because of heat or cheap lipos? Assuming its something in the 36" range the motor, esc, prop shouldn't cause an issue also assuming its set up properly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Fluid]

The Seaking 180 was famous for premature LVC shutdown. Most guys disabled the LVC but then you have to time your runs. At least try this to see if it solves the shutdowns.


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[modvp55]

If you have an Enzo with that combination you may be on the edge for prop size with 1730KV. I have that hull with a 1480KV and 180 Sea king with as mentioned LVC disabled, I run either a 1915 ABC or an X452 and temps are 130 on motor and 125 ESC after a 5 lap heat race. Pond water temp is 85 so that also limits a bit.

[enzo thecat]

To answer the questions:

Nothing is hot to the touch, not even the esc. In fact, it doesnt have time to heat up.

Not a cheap lipo. Its a name brand.


Hull is a TFL Carbon Fiber Ariane 2
Specs:
Hull Length: 930mm
Beam: 270mm
Height: 135mm

[martin]

your turning a lot of revs at over 38000 rpm in a fairly large mono & not knowing the state of the batteries. As said the Seaking 180a esc is known to have over sensitive lvc, disable the lvc & try it again. You must time your runs though with a disabled lvc.

[Mxkid261]

As noted low voltage is pretty sensitive on these esc's I have 4 of the v3's any battery under like 40c will trigger lvc instantly on mine. What kind of 6s pack are you running how many mah and C rating?

[TRUCKPULL]

What is the timing set at on your ESC.
With that motor it should be at 0.00 degrees

Larry

[enzo thecat]

As noted low voltage is pretty sensitive on these esc's I have 4 of the v3's any battery under like 40c will trigger lvc instantly on mine. What kind of 6s pack are you running how many mah and C rating?

I think its a flightpower 5000mah and 25C 6s

What is the timing set at on your ESC.
With that motor it should be at 0.00 degrees

Larry

Ah. Ill have to check I dont think its zero. Ill check tonight.

[Mxkid261]

Your battery likely isn't up to the task 25c is way to low for a boat pushing that power. You should be using like a 50c pack

[Peter A]

How about post a pic or two of the shaft set up. You should be running a 3/16" shaft, and at those rpm perhaps an M442 or 445 would be enough. What are your objectives, as in oval racing, saw or sport running? If (suggestion) you change to the Leopard 1390kv 2Y motor you can run a bigger range and/or get better run times. A motor with a lower rated watts will also help with run times, i.e. 4082, but there may be a top speed trade off. TP motors are good in a 4050 or 4060, or a NEU 1521 or 1527, it all depends on the amp draw when running. A 2P setup will also extend run times. Again it depends on your goals for the boat.

[TRUCKPULL]

I think its a flightpower 5000mah and 25C 6s

Are you running 1 of these packs or 2 in parallel?

2 high "C" rated packs in Parallel would be best for the load that you are running.

Larry

[enzo thecat]

Are you running 1 of these packs or 2 in parallel?

2 high "C" rated packs in Parallel would be best for the load that you are running.

Larry

Oh really? Its 1 battery. So you are saying I should run TWO 3s packs? Wait...if I did that, I'd have to run them in series, not in parallel, correct? Please elaborate. My physics courses may be failing me at the moment.

[enzo thecat]

How about post a pic or two of the shaft set up. You should be running a 3/16" shaft, and at those rpm perhaps an M442 or 445 would be enough. What are your objectives, as in oval racing, saw or sport running? If (suggestion) you change to the Leopard 1390kv 2Y motor you can run a bigger range and/or get better run times. A motor with a lower rated watts will also help with run times, i.e. 4082, but there may be a top speed trade off. TP motors are good in a 4050 or 4060, or a NEU 1521 or 1527, it all depends on the amp draw when running. A 2P setup will also extend run times. Again it depends on your goals for the boat.

Thank you for your long reply.

My goals are just to blast around the pond. I've had a lot of boat and this hull is pretty incredible. Super stable and turns are sharply surreal. I like top speed but dont want short run times either. So I'd sacrifice some top speed for run time. Before I converted everything I was flying for just under 5 minutes. I'd make whatever investment I needed to achieve this. I'll post the pictures you asked for. If you dont mind, please think about a solid package recommendation and you can post links.

[TRUCKPULL]

Oh really? Its 1 battery. So you are saying I should run TWO 3s packs? Wait...if I did that, I'd have to run them in series, not in parallel, correct? Please elaborate. My physics courses may be failing me at the moment.

So you are running 1 pack 6S-5000mA 25C

For the power that you are putting out, to stop the ESC from cutting out you should be running;

TWO 6S -5000mA 65C packs in Parallel

This would give the equivalent of a 6S 10,000 65C pack
Now you would get your longer times and not be pulling the battery voltage down under load as you are now.

Larry