Zonda twin

[suffering79]

OK I have a problem with my Zonda I got in 2castle 2200kv with to seeking 180 ESC with two blade 42mm CNC props running on 5s 60c 5000mah on each side .the problem is out of water boat screams but when in water boat get on plane and run slow when hitting throttle motors screams louder but don't moves no faster. Props are counter rotation and I tried spinning outward and inward no difference I even try 6s no difference come on plane and that's it .any advice will be appreciated

[pistol18]

Just a thought but are the flex cables tight in the collets?
It might be on the bench they spin the props since there's no resistance.
But in the water, there is resistance and the motors are spinning up but the flex cable/props are slipping.

I'm sure the veterans will chime in too.

[Keagan-Z06]

Sounds like my spartan. I would try the flex as mentioned above.

[785boats]

Also. Is there a flat spot ground into the stub shaft for the grub screw of the drive dog? The drive dogs may be slipping.

[suffering79]

OK thank you for the replies I go check all that stuff out

[Zondar]

I have the same rig but a different problem.
I use Travis' hatch screws (and weather strip) AND tape each launch.
I get water in the starboard sponson most ever run. No water inlet tube leaks and no hull damage.If it is coming up the tube, I am not sure how to remedy.
Any ideas experts?

[rabosi]

If the Zonda is stock then the square end of the flex cables may not be engaging the shafts or separating under load(it's a two piece system). Too much of the flex cables might be up into the couplers. On the boat with the leak you can do a bathtub test (if not done already) to see if water is coming from mounting screws etc.

[Zondar]

If the Zonda is stock then the square end of the flex cables may not be engaging the shafts or separating under load(it's a two piece system). Too much of the flex cables might be up into the couplers. On the boat with the leak you can do a bathtub test (if not done already) to see if water is coming from mounting screws etc.

I changed to all flex once I removed the stock square ends. Also have plenty of grease and Teflon. I'll try the tub. I have a sufficient gap at the dog. Wouldn't backing out of coupler increase this gap? Appreciate the tip.

[rabosi]

I changed to all flex once I removed the stock square ends. Also have plenty of grease and Teflon. I'll try the tub. I have a sufficient gap at the dog. Wouldn't backing out of coupler increase this gap? Appreciate the tip.

My response about the flex shaft was meant for the original post. Tub testing should help you isolate your issue. It will be easier if you remove the shafts and cover the opening of the tube ( small balloons work great). Be sure to submerge the boat so that all possible entry points are tested. Also check your cooling lines for leaks.

[Zondar]

Thanks, rabosi. After tub test turns out leak is at tube where it enters transom behind stinger mount.

[rabosi]

I have found that to be a issue sometimes on RTR boats.

[runningman]

I use Travis' hatch screws (and weather strip)

Sorry for off topic. What are they?

[fweasel]

Sorry for off topic. What are they?

These.

[runningman]

These.

Thank you.