Delta Force 33" Speed Run Video

[electric]

Before the comments, I do understand that this is a "risky' set up. I am amazed that the esc is hardly wam. Here is the youtube link with all the setup information. 55.4mph.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZLIsfTjw58

It is my first time to try filming and youtube so forgive the picture quality etc.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Looking good.

If the motor could push it at its best efficiency you would in in the low to mid 60's. Thats probably not possible with that motor.

[electric]

Steven,
What kind of motor would you recommend? I would like to see if I could get it up into that range.

[Darin Jordan]

Steven,
What kind of motor would you recommend? I would like to see if I could get it up into that range.

I didn't catch it, but if this is a 4S setup, then a Neu 1521 1.5D would put you there with room to spare... You'd need to use a much bigger prop, however... but with that motor, you'd be able to use a much bigger prop...

[kwiktsi]

I didn't catch it, but if this is a 4S setup, then a Neu 1521 1.5D would put you there with room to spare... You'd need to use a much bigger prop, however... but with that motor, you'd be able to use a much bigger prop...

He's running 6S.

I've got the same boat and actually felt it was too nose heavy with the packs in their stock location, so I moved them back along side the motor to loosen it up a bit. I noticed yours were still in the front. Have you or anyone else checked the CG with them there? I think you'll find it to be too nose heavy, but I really can't see clearly enough how wet it is running. Mine will run on the rear 2-3" at most once it is at speed. I'm probably hurting it's handling a touch, but it still handles great and is pretty fast and loose on the straights :).

I'm still experimenting a bit with mine to find the perfect location, but I don't think it's going to be even close to stock based on what I have seen so far. I started with them all the way back until the one would touch the servo and have been moving them up from there based on handling and such. I have a little more to go as it still chine walks a bit up top, but nothing too bad. If I can't get it to not chine walk by playing with the CG, then I'll bring the tabs down (they are currently up a bit), but I don't want to induce drag if I don't have to!

[electric]

Interesting. I had some issues with the boat running too wet as well. I adjusted the strut and tabs to try and get it working a bit better. That is why you see the large rooster tail. I might try relocating the batteries as you did.

Darin,
I can either run 4s or 6s (current batteries available) The interesting thing is I had trouble with the 4s setup (batteries getting hot and melting the joints), but the 6s setup has run cooler and more reliably. That does not make alot of sense to me, but maybe its the difference in battery quality.

Since I want to go the high voltage route I would like to stick wth the 6s setup. You mentioned a bigger prop? Give me a suggestion. Thanks.

[Darin Jordan]

He's running 6S.

In that case, then a Neu 1521 2.5D would give you around 28,000RPM and lots of power...

A little hotter setup would be a 1521 1Y, but then you are looking at an almost SAW like 37,000 or so... and likely a much toastier controller...

Both expensive setups... but sure to hit the goal of 60+... It could likely be done with less expensive motors as well with the right combination...

[Darin Jordan]

The intresting thing is I had trouble with the 4s setup (batteries getting hot and melting the joints), but the 6s setup has run cooler and more reliably. That does not make alot of sense to me, but maybe its the difference in battery quality.

Perhaps it's battery quality, but it makes perfect sense from an Electrical standpoint... Without getting into the math equations... basically, the higher the voltage, the less the CURRENT there will be for a given amount of watts provided... When you go up in voltage, you pull less amps.. generally speaking, and things run cooler...

In theory, 2S, 4S, or 6S systems could all be configured to provide the exact same power... but the 2S would have to pull substantially more amps to make that power compared to the 6S setup...

[kwiktsi]

Interesting. I had some issues with the boat running too wet as well. I adjusted the strut and tabs to try and get it working a bit better. That is why you see the large rooster tail. I might try relocating the batteries as you did.

Darin,
I can either run 4s or 6s (current batteries available) The interesting thing is I had trouble with the 4s setup (batteries getting hot and melting the joints), but the 6s setup has run cooler and more reliably. That does not make alot of sense to me, but maybe its the difference in battery quality.

Since I want to go the high voltage route I would like to stick wth the 6s setup. You mentioned a bigger prop? Give me a suggestion. Thanks.

I have my strut with just a *hair* of up thrust to it to keep the nose up, nothing drastic. I'll probably drop it a bit when I run in rougher water though, or if moving the packs up doesn't help with the chine walking. The tabs are up a few degrees just to keep them from dragging. I put them down a bit as an experiment and it ran smooth as glass, no chine walking, handled the "bumps" well, etc. but things got noticeably hotter inside from the drag- this was with the old motor though. I haven't touched them with the new one yet, like I said- I would rather get it right adjusting the CG if possible before messing with the tabs again.

I noticed you said you had an M445 on it- did it fit on the stock prop shaft, or did you have to modify it? I have an X440 and X442 I want to try, but the hub is too deep for it to fit and still get the retainer on . I was thinking of switching the flex cable to one with a threaded prop shaft.

Here are a couple inside shots of my boat as it sits now. I removed the original battery tray (didn't take much effort lol) and made my own smaller one for the ESC and moved the packs along side the motor as seen. They seem to rock a bit with just the velcro holding them, but once I get the CG figured out, I'll probably make battery holders with straps for it to hold them more securely. I am not going for speed with this one like you are, I have other boats for that. This is just a fun runner for playing at the lake when we have our boat out, so I am running a 12XL on the 6S 5400's and get very good run time- ~7mins with an "unknown" brand sharpened/balanced 45mm prop (only one I had that had a short enough hub for that shaft lol). I just resharpened it last night due to an incident with the boat ramp- one of those "what was I doing? Oh yeah, bringing it in" only to see it come flying past me on the ramp moments- I was DEAD tired yesterday and should have been sleeping instead of playing lol. While I was at it, I barr cut it as well, we'll see if that does anything for it. I would like to try an X445 for the hell of it as well, but will definitely need to change the shaft first. I think it may even handle bigger, but I don't want to cook it only for speed since that wasn't the purpose of this boat.

Sorry for the novel, here are the pics-

[electric]

""I noticed you said you had an M445 on it- did it fit on the stock prop shaft, or did you have to modify it? I have an X440 and X442 I want to try, but the hub is too deep for it to fit and still get the retainer on . I was thinking of switching the flex cable to one with a threaded prop shaft."

Kwiktsi,
I got frustrated with that shaft issue also. I broke out the dremel and ground out the flat spot on the shaft all the way to the end so I could always get the set screw on the hub in there correctly for the prop. I also am thinking about switching to the flex cable as well.

Thanks for the pics, I like that layout. Since I just pulled my battery tray out the last time I used the boat, the timing could not be better.