Repainting a hull

[HappyOne]

I have seen the advice on using Krylon to paint hulls. I have an airbrush from my other modelling pursuits and have painted quite a few car bodies with good results.

Does anyone know if I can repaint a hull with the Pactra Racing paints that we use on the Lexan car bodies? There are some nice candy and metallic choices and the paints are pretty flexible.

[lonewolf]

I dont see why not as long as the paint is compatable with whatever you are painting and your prep and application are correct... I use omni 2 part epoxy primer ,auto air paints and omni quick clear with good results..

[j.m.]

Make sure you put a nice thick clear coat over it all.

And then roughen up the back third of your hull to make it go fast.
(that's why I said a thick coat of clear)

[detox]

The areas where you tape the hatch to the hull are most critical. I had to repaint my rigger because everytime I would remove the electrical tape I would also remove paint. The duplicolor lacquer sprayed over their recommended sealer had POOR ADHESION qualities. I solved the problem by removing old paint with acetone and paper towels then repainting hull using standerd Krylon primer and standerd Krylon paint...no more pealing paint! I also set my freshly painted boat in the hot sun a few hours so new paint would shrink faster and maybe be more durable.

If I were you...I would test your paint on scrap before painting entire hull. After letting your paint cure a few days apply tape over new painted area then test for pealing paint by removing tape.

[Mich. Maniac]

I dont see why not as long as the paint is compatable with whatever you are painting and your prep and application are correct... I use omni 2 part epoxy primer ,auto air paints and omni quick clear with good results..

Right on Brotha! less expensive than the DB line but nice results.

[Mich. Maniac]

If I were you...I would test your paint on scrap before painting entire hull. After letting your paint cure a few days apply tape over new painted area then test for pealing paint by removing tape.

another good point... I suggest doing this in the afternoon sun as well as the tape will adhere to your part better and give better more true results as if it will peel or not.

[egneg]

What is the hull made of? This will have a great deal to do with prep and processes used.

[Comfortably Numb]

I am useing the same paint, I hand sanded down to 220 wet. Then used white for base coat @ 40lbs, and three very light coats with 20min. inbetween. Light sanded with 220 again. Now going to apply yellow,orange to red fade. I lools to be working so far.

[kwiktsi]

I am useing the same paint, I hand sanded down to 220 wet. Then used white for base coat @ 40lbs, and three very light coats with 20min. inbetween. Light sanded with 220 again. Now going to apply yellow,orange to red fade. I lools to be working so far.

220 is way too rough for a final sand before color. I'd do no rougher than 320, but even that is pushing it. When I do a car, depending on the color it will be 400-600 for final sanding before paint (along with various scuff pads and sanding compounds depending on what I am painting over).

[Flying Scotsman]

I have seen the advice on using Krylon to paint hulls. I have an airbrush from my other modelling pursuits and have painted quite a few car bodies with good results.

Does anyone know if I can repaint a hull with the Pactra Racing paints that we use on the Lexan car bodies? There are some nice candy and metallic choices and the paints are pretty flexible.

IMO, Wet sand with 400, then fill any imperfections with filler, wet sand again with 400, then prime coat with your choice of prime coat, if it does not bubble, you are set to go with a top coat that is compatable with the primer, after a 400 and 800 wet sand and please note let each coat of paint time to flash. My 2 cents.

Douggie

[Flying Scotsman]

Also, please note I am not a fan of clearcoat. Reason, very difficult to fix minor scratches etc. Enamel and other paints are easy to fix. A true modern paint system has a marginal coat of top colour finished with clear. If, you have a modern car you can not take out minor blemishes due to the clearcoat and a marginal top coat. Other finishes may have as many as 15 coats of top coat and a minor/major scratch can easily be polished out.

Douggie

[j.m.]

Because of the clearcoat, there aren't a lot of "minor" blemishes that you can detect because they don't go through to the color underneath.

[Flying Scotsman]

Because of the clearcoat, there aren't a lot of "minor" blemishes that you can detect because they don't go through to the color underneath.

With a clearcoat finish or any paint job. A blemish in my mind's eye is a fault in the colour appearance.

Douggie

[j.m.]

Are you talking about the clearcoat distorting the color?

Sorry, i thought you were talking about some sort of scratch.