Damaged sponson tips in crash... Best way to repair it?

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  • dmitry100
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Mar 2015
    • 1264

    #31
    I can't seem to find a good fitting respirator ... What would you guys recommend? I'd rather be overkill in this department...

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    • dmitry100
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Mar 2015
      • 1264

      #32
      petej: How fast were you going? Was the kayak docked or was it out on the water? Did the kayak sink?

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      • petej
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2010
        • 147

        #33
        The kayak was coming or going towards shore, about 75 yards out and the Motley Crew was traveling about 20-25 mph. The MC port bow tip put a hole in the kayak, above the water line, breaking off inside. Both the MC and the kayak safely returned to shore on their own power.
        Cost to repair kayak: $25 at nearby rafting shop.
        Pete


        Motley Crew, Impulse 31, Zonda Cat, Genesis, Aqua Rider tug, E-Revo Brushless, Slash4x4

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        • tlandauer
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2011
          • 5666

          #34
          Originally posted by petej
          Not carbon fiber, but, last summer I ran my Motley Crew into a a Kayak
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]135941[/ATTACH]
          I flush-cut the damaged bow tip and inserted balsa pieces.
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]135942[/ATTACH]
          Wrapped with fiber glass, resin, ...
          ended up looking like this, [ATTACH=CONFIG]135943[/ATTACH]
          Back on the water...
          Wow! Looks great! That is some kind of repair! Congrats.
          Too many boats, not enough time...

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          • tlandauer
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2011
            • 5666

            #35
            Originally posted by dmitry100
            I can't seem to find a good fitting respirator ... What would you guys recommend? I'd rather be overkill in this department...
            I use 3M tekk disposable ones. It says "Sanding and Fiberglass Valved Respirator", but I deal with FG most of the time, not sure if CF needs more protection.......
            Too many boats, not enough time...

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            • dmitry100
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Mar 2015
              • 1264

              #36
              Guys... What kind of brush or tool do I need for a perfect and even looking finish coat?

              Since my shocker has the transparent CF gel coat... even small inconsistencies on the finish coat make it really noticeable if I use a brush or anything like that to apply the finishing epoxy.
              I'm using my last bit of z-poxy here but I do have the (clear) west systems 207/105.
              Would that be more suitable?

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              • srislash
                Not there yet
                • Mar 2011
                • 7673

                #37
                Wetsand,wetsand,wetsand

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                • dmitry100
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Mar 2015
                  • 1264

                  #38
                  Wet sand? You mean like water + sandpaper?

                  But how do you make it look an even glossy surface instead of matte to match the rest of the boat?

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                  • srislash
                    Not there yet
                    • Mar 2011
                    • 7673

                    #39
                    That is correct Dmitry

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                    • dmitry100
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Mar 2015
                      • 1264

                      #40
                      Trying to apply the epoxy as a finishing clear coat to match the rest of the hull, man... Was wondering on the best way to apply it or if i should be using something else as a clear coat finish

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                      • flraptor07
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2013
                        • 2451

                        #41
                        I would think the best way to do it is use a automotive urethane clear, and when you get the repair done scuff and clear the whole boat. It's almost impossible to get it right just clearing the repair.

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                        • srislash
                          Not there yet
                          • Mar 2011
                          • 7673

                          #42
                          Originally posted by flraptor07
                          I would think the best way to do it is use a automotive urethane clear, and when you get the repair done scuff and clear the whole boat. It's almost impossible to get it right just clearing the repair.
                          U-pol Clear #1. Wetsand your problem area smooth like the rest of hull and Clear over it. If the problem area needs more epoxy first, brush it on then wetsand smooth.

                          It works:

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                          • flraptor07
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2013
                            • 2451

                            #43
                            Originally posted by srislash
                            U-pol Clear #1. Wetsand your problem area smooth like the rest of hull and Clear over it. If the problem area needs more epoxy first, brush it on then wetsand smooth.

                            It works:

                            Man that came out nice, I would have never thought you could get it that nice doing a spot repair. But U-pol does make some great products, the local body shop supply store carries them.

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