Dumas Deep Vee Brushless

[crispyspa]

I was given this hull about a year ago along with a Graupner drive. I installed the drive and proceeded to blow the motor because I overvolted it by 12 or so volts. LOL
I bought an Aquastar 2200kv motor and some aluminum parts and set out....I get about 4-5 minutes of run time and the batteries get real hot. Last known amp draw was 107 before the esc left us. I'm pretty sure it was defective.



The specifics:
Turnigy Aquastar 2200 kv brushless motor
Castle 200a ESC Hydra ice2
Octura x440 prop
Turnigy Nanotech 65-130c 5000mah batteries.
6lb 7oz without batteries.
1lb for each battery (2)

Here is the maiden run:

I think I need to prop down, but being a Noob, I have no idea what I might need. I started at the x440. I looked through the list of Octura props and I just cant settle on what I need. Smaller diameter prop? Less pitch?

[crispyspa]

Here are more pictures.

[Doby]

What voltage are you running?

[crispyspa]

What voltage are you running?

6 cell lipo 22.2 nominal bout 25 max.

[Fluid]

Way too much voltage for that Kv. I would not use over 4S with that motor for normal use. I set several SAW records with a 2200 Kv motor on 6S pulling north of 300 amps.


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[crispyspa]

Way too much voltage for that Kv. I would not use over 4S with that motor for normal use. I set several SAW records with a 2200 Kv motor on 6S pulling north of 300 amps.


.

Got a YouTube channel I can see those runs?
That motor is only rated for 5 cells, but I figured what the heck, right? It did seem kind of stupid on 6 cells. I have an M440 prop on the way, but I have no idea how it'll work out what to expect for heat out of the batteries. Some guidance would really be a big help. I still haven't heard from Castle about my speed control.

[crispyspa]

What and where are you getting for speed controls? The biggest one I know of is a swordfish 300 a.

[crispyspa]

Well, the Castle is repaired thanks to the wonderful folks at Castle. I do want to add capacitance to the circuit so I started digging and found these. A pair of 200v 1000 microfarad 85 deg. C. And a pair of 200v 560 microfarad 85 deg c . I'm thinking one of the big ones would be sufficient, but I wanted to run it by the great minds here first.

[crispyspa]

Another picture

[crispyspa]

Well, got the big one in there, seems to work but it hasn't hit the water yet.

[crispyspa]

On the advise of Castle, I opted to remove the big cap and put in a four 220uf cap bank. I ran the boat the other day with a cnc 38mm prop and 4 cells.

[high-tech]

Nice job... You will have it cherried in no time... You need to make a tape down hatch to keep your electronic dry, its very important.

You are getting really good rpm, the boat seems a little loose on the water. We adjust the attitude or angle by sliding the batteries a little more forward and that will let the hook in the hull do its job.

That hull was designed with a hook (its towards the transom) and when the Center of Gravity (CoG) is perfect that hook acts like a set of trim tabs and lifts the hull out of the water and keeps it's attitude proper

[crispyspa]

Thanks. Everything is waterproof, except the batteries. I'm not to worried about it.
I removed the hook because I thought it was a defect. This is my first mono hull.

The motor and batteries were still getting really warm...I mean really warm, so I've replaced the 2200kv motor with a Turnigy AquaStar 4084-1050KV with a Turnigy 180 ESC and went to an Octura X450 prop. It has yet to be tested.

[crispyspa]

I should be testing it out on the 16th or 17th of October and have a video up a few days later. I'm really curioius about the change and what it does.

[danielplace1962]

When using a one piece welded stub cable in the round collet you do not want to use thrust washers contacting the strut at all. It needs a gap back there otherwise it will be trying to rip your cable apart every time those
thrust washers make contact between the drive dog and the strut. The thrust should be on a thrust bearing installed between the collet and the engine mount.