Genesis upgrade HELP

[Alf r]

Hello im in the proses of upgrading my genesis, and now i ned some help (advises) :)

what i got so far, uppgarded to dual pickup/offset rudder/3/16" strut and driveline,
Turnigy Marine 180A BEC


Now i ned some help whith what Engine i shud go for ,leopard 4074 --- 4082 what Kv ?
i mostly run on 4s.. but like to try 6s laiter :) ... and be on the safe side :)

prop advise also :)

Regards
Alf-R

[Alf r]

No one's ?

[revoltrunner]

I put a 4074 2000kv with a Octura X642 prop in mine.
it runs really good on 4s.
I ran it once on 6s but I run
it on 5s most of the time.

[SD Eracer]

I have two Genesis, my first one was my "learning boat", I essentially cut my teeth on that boat. The 2nd boat I'm building now has been reinforced with carbon fiber, designed to hit 80 mph and handle it.

My first Genesis has been through the ringer with me, sunk/flooded with saltwater 4 times, burned up and smoked once, and she still looks like new and running strong. Learned a lot in the year I have owned it.

My first setup was a Leopard 4082 2200kv on 4S. Top speed was about 55mph with an Octura X642 or M445 prop. I didn't like that setup because that motor was an amp hog and really did a number on my batteries. I decided that going with more amps and lower kv was the way to go.

My 2nd setup was a Leopard 4082 1600kv on 6S. Top speed was about 65mph with an Octura M445 prop. This is probably the best all-around 6S setup you can have with a reasonable budget. Temps were low, about 120F for the motor and ESC after a 2 minute full throttle run.

My 3rd and current setup is a Leopard 4092 1730kv on 6S. Top speed is about 70mph with an Octura M445 prop. This setup is a bit harder to drive due to the torque, but very fun. Temps are a little higher, about 129F for the motor and ESC. I have about 600 laps up and down our local saltwater pond with this setup, it is solid and reliable.

Note: Before you start upping the speed on your Genesis, you must reinforce the hull to handle it. I learned the hard way, and had to fix multiple cracks week after week, but I have slowly built up that hull with fiberglass cloth and resin. It can handle a 70 mph flip now without worrying about hull damage.

Here is the setup I recommend once you decide to run 6S:

- Leopard 4082 1600kv (Note: This motor is no fun on anything other than 6S). You can use the 2200kv motor on 4S, but I feel it was more harder on the boat than running 1600kv on 6S.
- SeaKing or Turnigy 180a ESC. You bought the Turnigy branded version, which comes with better capacitor packs and costs $30 - $40 less, good choice.
- OSE 3/16th Strut
- Kintec Racing .187-3/16th single piece flexshaft. (Just remove the stock teflon liner, the .187 shaft works perfectly with the stock stuffing tube.)
- Octura 5mm to .187 two-piece collet.
- Octura M445 Prop
- Remove the off-set rudder, it slowed my boat down almost 5mph, though it did help with the handling.
- Add hatch locks, or at the very least some floatation on the hatch. That hatch will sink to the bottom and its $80 to replace!!!
- Are you using the Boat Bitz or Kintec dual intake rudder? Just note that they come with smaller than stock water fittings, which slows down the water flow. I would unscrew the water fitting you have on your original rudder, and replace one of the fittings on the dual rudder, preferably the one that goes to the ESC..
- Turnigy Heavy Duty 3S (x2) 60C/120C Batteries. They are $30 right now each, and great for running on 6S setups.
- Castle 8mm Connectors. Easy to solder on 8 gauge wire, a lot of room for growth as you up the speed and equipment.
- If you need any advice on how the reinforce the hull and cowl hatch, pm me. I would be happy to walk you through it.

Genesis 1a.jpgGenesis 1b.jpgGenesis 2a.jpg

Here is a video of my boat with the above setup:

[Alf r]

Ty a loot for the Reply

as im new whit boats i have a loot to learn :) . im not new in rc ben rcing for 20-30 years mostly plane tho.

glad im good to go on the Turnigy 180a ESC..

goot the rcBoat Bitz dual pickup/offset rudder/3/16 sett . lol did by the blue for bling. 3/16 drivline

the engine i did think bying whas the 4082-1800kv, sinse i goot 2 sets of 5500mAh - 55C - JackPower batterys.


nothing is instaled yet ..... have to do some carbon work to do first.

hatch locks what i shud get ?

"Turnigy Heavy Duty 3S (x2) 60C/120C Batteries. They are $30" ,that whasent expensive !! ... hmm why not go for 1600kv :)

ur probbely going to get a Pm :) ty for the help

here im runing my in stock settupp only a TFL 5B 12*42 prop

a bitt jumpy CoG wrong ?



Regards
Alf-R

[MG1234]

I split the seam on the front and knocked a little hole in the front nose ,what glue would you use to glue the seam back ? Great info on motors and props ,

[kwiktsi]

I am running the 4082 1600 as well in mine and I do have to slightly disagree with the "no fun on 4s" comment. It all depends what you want to do and if you are running alone or with others. My Daytona runs low 40's with a 4s2p setup with tons of run time and fun for sport running laps with others. Not the fastest setup but still fun. That said, I rarely run it on 4s lol. I have had similar results as you- I ran 62 with a 642 but that was before the offset rudder bracket let me bring the prop up more. I haven't tried the 642 since, but it has been 67 on an m545. As for running laps with others, its not as stable at this speed in "race water", but sure is fun as hell easing through the turns and then just destroying my friends down the straights :D.

[SD Eracer]

Ty a loot for the Reply

hatch locks what i shud get ?

"Turnigy Heavy Duty 3S (x2) 60C/120C Batteries. They are $30" ,that whasent expensive !! ... hmm why not go for 1600kv :)

ur probbely going to get a Pm :) ty for the help

here im runing my in stock settupp only a TFL 5B 12*42 prop

a bitt jumpy CoG wrong ?


Regards
Alf-R

The hatch locks I used are Keith Bradley's hatch bolt kit, if you don't run in saltwater they should be fine, otherwise the base bolts attached to the hull are not stainless and will rust unless you spray them with Corrosion-X or paint them before installation.

Your boat looks very good, I can hear a little but of porpoising sometimes which could be a few things. Assuming your strut angle is neutral, I would first put some weight to the front, are your batteries all the way forward?

Also, what is your strut angle? Is the strut flush with the top of the strut mount? If so, you may want to drop it about 1/2 to 1 mm if moving the batteries forward isn't enough.

I split the seam on the front and knocked a little hole in the front nose ,what glue would you use to glue the seam back ? Great info on motors and props ,

I would first fix the outside with some epoxy and either fiberglass cloth or mat. You can use some tape to create a rough shape of the hole in the nose and then fill it with epoxy. Once it cures, you can sand it down to shape and paint it to match.

You can use epoxy to glue the outside seam shut. But you must also reinforce the inside of the hull. Again, I would use epoxy and fiberglass cloth to reinforce the crease from the inside. You will need to remove the 3 white foam floatation pieces to access it, and some long brushes and tools to resin and lay the fiberglass sheets for the repair.

Or you can just fill the front cavity with some structural foam.

I am running the 4082 1600 as well in mine and I do have to slightly disagree with the "no fun on 4s" comment. It all depends what you want to do and if you are running alone or with others. My Daytona runs low 40's with a 4s2p setup with tons of run time and fun for sport running laps with others. Not the fastest setup but still fun. That said, I rarely run it on 4s lol. I have had similar results as you- I ran 62 with a 642 but that was before the offset rudder bracket let me bring the prop up more. I haven't tried the 642 since, but it has been 67 on an m545. As for running laps with others, its not as stable at this speed in "race water", but sure is fun as hell easing through the turns and then just destroying my friends down the straights :D.

Well, no fun after 6S that is Of course I'm more about SAW runs than a good balanced sporting boat.

I should have mentioned that I was able to gain about 5mph running a air dam at the front of my Genesis. This allowed me to put the strut to neutral without the boat flipping over. Prior to the air dam, I was running the strut down about 1mm.

The 545 for some reason makes my boat too hot. I haven't had good luck with that prop on this boat, at least with the 4092 1730kv motor. The 545 wasn't faster than the M445, just hotter. But maybe its how well I balanced and sharpened it?

[kwiktsi]

I never tried an m445, so I couldn't tell you. I have noticed that things run a bit warmer than I'd like, but "OK" with that prop. I did use a CNC 45 (which is I believe a 1.5 pitch compared to the 1.4 of the octura) which worked well and bit hard on acceleration, making the boat a blast to drive with others. It was an animal coming out of the turns into the straights but I never gps'd that one. My detongued 642 ran about 63 mph with the strut about 1/16" from the bottom and a TFL 44 was about 58mph with the strut up where I run it on the 545, might have gotten more if I dropped it a touch. I have an ABC prop here I am trying for saw runs but the boat blew off on the first run with it and then started raining, so I haven't been able to dial it in and get a number on it. "Faster than the 545" is about all I can tell for sure :D.

I run the strut about 1/4" with a slight up trim with the 545 and it works very well. I may need to take the positive trim out and maybe add some negative with the ABC prop, we'll see. It was the first time the boat blew off on me, so I'm thinking I'll have to.

[SD Eracer]

... It was the first time the boat blew off on me, so I'm thinking I'll have to.

Try an air dam, works wonders for me. I use to have to run my strut down over 1mm, it it still would occasionally blow over. Once I installed the air dam, I was able to go neutral on the strut and it rarely blows over, my speed also increased because of my strut angle.

I posted a couple of pics of my air dam. This is the Kintec carbon piece for the UL-1, I cut the length to fit the Genesis and then used Scotch outdoor double sided tape to mount it. Half the year running exclusively in salt water, no issues with it falling off.

Just to try it out, use an ordinary drinking straw for an air dam and hatch tape it to the hull, about 2.5 inches from the tip. If you like it, you can get a more permanent solution.

Air Dam.jpg

Air Dam 2.jpg

[MG1234]

So it's not a fin or flap it a flat bump,to disrupt the air under the boat ,2.5" from front of hull? Or from the tips? Om gonna try it ,I stuck on a plastic Spartan prop ,stock motor on 6 s ,wow it's fast ,jumps out of the water with torque roll then flies ,fastest boat yet for me

[SD Eracer]

So it's not a fin or flap it a flat bump,to disrupt the air under the boat ,2.5" from front of hull? Or from the tips? Om gonna try it ,I stuck on a plastic Spartan prop ,stock motor on 6 s ,wow it's fast ,jumps out of the water with torque roll then flies ,fastest boat yet for me

I think that will work as well, just something to disrupt the air will work, the Kintec carbon air dam worked well for my UL-1, so I thought why not for the Genesis. Yup, about 2.5 inches or so from the front.

"Jumps out of the water with torque roll, then flies...", yup that is the perfect discription of a 6S Genesis with a single drive. Narrow hull with a lot of power is hard sometimes to get on a steady plane from a start, but once on plane it flies.

If you check TheShaddix previous post, he built an amazing dual-drive Genesis. Amazing carbon fiber work, dual 40mm Leopard cans, easily a 90mph boat. He actually build my new Genesis hull for me, see his work below...

Genesis 1.jpg

Genesis 2.jpg

[Bagoboy]

HI am Kevin Joseph I am also looking to strengthen my genesis hull is 12''x 16'' carbon fiber cloth a good fit to do the inside, and how do I apply it,also what is the length of .187-3/16 shaft.

[SD Eracer]

The proper way would be to remove the motor mount, battery trays, and sand the inside with 80 grit sandpaper. Then do a proper layup with carbon fiber cloth and finishing resin.

Here is good instructions how to do that: http://www.kbbforums.com/carbon-fibe...ial-t1041.html

However, if you just want to strengthen the current hull without removing your motor mounts and trays, you can do that by cutting strips (using the method in the link above), and laying it out on the hull using resin to apply it. It won't be as strong this way, but it will help. I used that method on my first Genesis, but using far easier to work with fiberglass cloth, beefing up the hull considerably. Many flips at over 65 mph without any damage to the hull. I also reinforced the tips and tail with epoxy resin, pouring in a couple of ounces on each tip.

The length of the shaft I am not sure, just order the 3/16th Genesis flexshaft from OSE or Kintec, and cut to length with a dremel and cutting wheel. Leave about 5-7mm of gap from the drive dog and the strut.

[Bagoboy]

hi kevin again thx for your reply great information, what is the name of the resin and where do i purchase it.