I have a carbon fiber motor mount for my neu 1527 motor. I purchased this mount from ose and it has all the little holes along the bottom for epoxy to flow into. My plan is to use some wood around these holes to dam it up a bit. I will be fiberglassing the wood to the bottom of hull for strength.. my question is would balsa be strong enough for this??
Mono hull motor mount attachment.
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Mono hull motor mount attachment.
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Which epoxy are you using again?
I imagine you're damming it because you want to use a decent amount of epoxy, without having it run, correct? If thats the case I would get an epoxy additive like micro fibers or something, to bulk it so it doesn't run. Then if you want use fiberglass or cf tape to finish it off. I did something similar recently using thickened epoxy and black pigment, posted a pic that might help.
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I'm thinking about using g flex and I already have some milled fiberglass to mix inGood times had by all!Comment
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I think a few members on here have used gflex and really like it, but I can't comment as I haven't used it. For motor mounts I could see why it would make sense, but I've never had a problem with west systems 105/207. I have taped motor mounts with carbon fiber, and have left others with just epoxy. Neither has broken, so up to you.
I tend to use
colloidal silica + high density west systems additive.
Together it makes something ridiculously hard and strong. I use masking tape spaced appropriately to make a nice epoxy bead, then a putty knife to get it flat.
For me, I always use epoxy for motor mounts, aquarium silicone for battery trays.Comment
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I've been using this epoxy for several years and nothing has come loose... http://www.harborfreight.com/uick-se...oxy-68386.html (that's the wrong SKU num & price) correct SKU = 92665, it's on sale now for $1.99
I sand the surface's to be epoxied with very course (80~100grit) sandpaper to promote adhesion - sets within 5-minutes so you don't have to worry about running. Plastics, wood, fiberglass & other materials no prob.
I gather your talking about one of these 2... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-80230-b - or - http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80210 - if yes, sand the bottom of each upright with course sandpaper, run a bead of epoxy on it & attach to your hull.
After that you can run a bead of fiberglass resin or finishing epoxy on each side of each runner one at a time till it's built up to your liking.
Or go with iridebikes247 suggestion & run strips of this stuff... http://www.cstsales.com/glass_tape.html through the openings (or length wise along the base) to tie it to the hull.AQ MiniMono - CopterX 430XL 3550kv BL Outrunner + Seaking(V2) 35A on 2S VERY Fast
Pro Boat SW26v3 - 2860-2600kv + Seaking(V2) 90A on 3S, Build in Progress
Pro Boat Stealthwake 23 - Stock For Now - Brushless Down The RoadComment
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Yes, my mount is the same setup as your link. Think I'm just going to use thickened west systems gflex and I will be mixing in some milled fiberglass.. I understand prep is everything so acetone and sanding will be done before epoxy is used.Good times had by all!Comment
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I've used Marine Goop on several of my builds...works well.Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellersComment
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Denatured alcohol would be a better surface cleaner than acetone - especially if your dealing with plastics.
AQ MiniMono - CopterX 430XL 3550kv BL Outrunner + Seaking(V2) 35A on 2S VERY Fast
Pro Boat SW26v3 - 2860-2600kv + Seaking(V2) 90A on 3S, Build in Progress
Pro Boat Stealthwake 23 - Stock For Now - Brushless Down The RoadComment
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