I have a Lep 3674. Wanted to mount it on a os outboard leg. I had a 3650 that fit perfectly. I have the adapter that was bought from ose. Problem is, and I'm sure there is a easy fix but I am green to electric, so need help with a solution. The collet fits on the motor shaft but is to long so there is a gap between the mount adapter. The collet is up as far as it can go on the motor shaft. Just too long. The sensible thing to do is cut down the motor shaft but I want to make sure befor I do any cutting. If it's needs to be cut is there a standard length that should be cut? Or the other solution would be a adapter or spacer for the adapter if there is one. Thanks.
OS outboard leg bump in the road.
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It's not uncommon to trim the length of the motor shaft on FE tunnel leg conversions, at least not for the last 5 FE tunnels I've built. For me it was more to get the proper flex fit/ end play. The 3674 is taller which means a slightly higher CG and shimming it up higher to make things fit further raises the CG and the "top heavyness" . Use a Dremel cutoff wheel & cover the motor bearing with tape to keep it isolated from the cutting dust2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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Ok it's done. The collet set screws just cover the flat spot. There is no room for the flex shaft to have play. It's right there. If it binds I'm screwed. Also the prop has some resistance. So more of the shaft needs to go. If I cut anymore one of the set screws will tighten above the flat spot. The other will be on the flat part. Is it ok to just have one set screw tighten on the flat part. Or is a file in order.Doesn't matter, real or RC, boats are just a hole in the water where you throw your cash.
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Yes, That 's what I have to settle for on some of mine, you can always use a grinding disc to 'lengthen " the flat spot. Either way, make sure you use blue thread lock compound on the set screws especially the one that has the flat spot.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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