What are the basic or best ajustments for HK Pursuit boat?

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  • boilo56
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2014
    • 390

    #16
    Originally posted by tlandauer
    Like gear ratio. For the same pitch, a larger diameter prop should theoretically give you more speed, but the increased size may be too big for the motor to swing efficiently and other issues such as heat, torque roll, chine walk can come into play. This is why for the Aqua Craft Revolt people say it is better to run a x642 than a M445 or M545 because the latter two have a tendency to make the hull chine walk a bit.
    Also a bigger dia. prop for the same given set up means higher amp draw, that translates to heat and heat is what kills the ESC and motor . I am only saying this in the MOST GENERAL TERMS. Selecting the proper diameter and pitch is an endeavor which requires experience and a lot of trial and error.
    My main concern was that the motor is 2400kv, and that is not a low kv to run on a 4s set up with a sport boating intention. So to be safe with your components, I suggested to start with a smaller prop.
    Ok, thanks, that is what i tought! But in your opinion, should i stay with the 1620kv motor with the MM2, to begin with?

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    • boilo56
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2014
      • 390

      #17
      Originally posted by Make-a-Wake
      Isnt the MM esc a car ESC? Is it watercooled???

      That 2400 motor looks like it should work being a 36 x 70mm. I would try the stock prop first, as I mentioned a friend ran his with it and it went quite well.

      As mentioned a great prop choice would be the x442 with that motor.

      Go with at least 5000mah 40c batts if you are running 1p(2 x 2s in series)
      Yes it is, but i made a custom watercooling for it! You can see the setup in this vid!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ptf0w6PvHM

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      • tlandauer
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2011
        • 5666

        #18
        Originally posted by boilo56
        Ok, thanks, that is what i tought! But in your opinion, should i stay with the 1620kv motor with the MM2, to begin with?

        You will find that the speed on a 1620kv motor with 4s set up to be quite slow. If I were you, I will try the 2400kv motor with a bunch of cheap plastic props starting at 40mm perhaps,http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s+Carbon+Props ,
        then you can use x442 as recommended.
        Too many boats, not enough time...

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        • boilo56
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2014
          • 390

          #19
          Thank you tlandauer, that was really, very helpful!!! Send me a bill via paypal, i,ll pay you a beer!!!

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          • Make-a-Wake
            FE Rules!
            • Nov 2009
            • 5557

            #20
            Saw your vid, that little Rio was moving, as it should with such power in it. So, same motor and ESC but 4s in the Pursuit, right?

            I would use heatshrink next time for electronics and not tape, that could be a disaster.
            NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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            • boilo56
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2014
              • 390

              #21
              Originally posted by Make-a-Wake
              Saw your vid, that little Rio was moving, as it should with such power in it. So, same motor and ESC but 4s in the Pursuit, right?

              I would use heatshrink next time for electronics and not tape, that could be a disaster.
              Yes, same setup on 4s, maybe 5s(motor limit). The tape is already gone!!! I put new wires!

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              • tlandauer
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2011
                • 5666

                #22
                Originally posted by boilo56
                Thank you tlandauer, that was really, very helpful!!! Send me a bill via paypal, i,ll pay you a beer!!!
                You are welcome, happy boating my friend!
                Too many boats, not enough time...

                Comment

                • Peter A
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2012
                  • 1486

                  #23
                  Hi Boilo
                  The stock prop is a detounged 42mm prop and should be ok with your MM2 motor. When you run do 1 minute then bring it in and check temps. If every thing is not more than warm to touch then run for two minutes etc. (others can extrapolate on specific temps for you). Just do not run your batteries down too much. Keep trying props etc and checking things until you can run happily without anything overheating.
                  NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
                  2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
                  BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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                  • Make-a-Wake
                    FE Rules!
                    • Nov 2009
                    • 5557

                    #24
                    I found my original Pursuit prop, kinda beat up from banging around in a prop box, i am showing it next to an x442.

                    It's kind of a funky looking prop, cleaverish..............De-tongued is an understatement.........

                    The second pic is distorted, its the same diameter as the x442
                    Attached Files
                    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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                    • boilo56
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2014
                      • 390

                      #25
                      Thank you guys, that helps! But now, i just received it, and i can't remove the flex... it won't come out, do you have any tricks???

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                      • Make-a-Wake
                        FE Rules!
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 5557

                        #26
                        Just put it in a vice and yank as hard as you can, then beat the end of the hull with a mallet til it either breaks or comes loose.

                        LOL......................... just kidding

                        Will it not come out of the collett? I had the same problem, it's a big ole clunky looking 2 piece collet isnt it?
                        NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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                        • boilo56
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2014
                          • 390

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Make-a-Wake
                          Just put it in a vice and yank as hard as you can, then beat the end of the hull with a mallet til it either breaks or comes loose.

                          LOL......................... just kidding

                          Will it not come out of the collett? I had the same problem, it's a big ole clunky looking 2 piece collet isnt it?
                          here is a pic of the colet.
                          IMG_20141107_194258.jpg

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                          • Make-a-Wake
                            FE Rules!
                            • Nov 2009
                            • 5557

                            #28
                            Can you get the nut off any further? Looks like it is touching the teflon tube now. You may have to cut the teflon tube end off flush with the stuffing tube and get the nut off, then use a flathead to spread the compressed part where the cable is stuck. Cant remember but can you remove the motor and pull the cable all the way thru backwards after you take the prop and drivedog off?
                            NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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                            • Bryan73
                              Junior Member
                              • Mar 2012
                              • 22

                              #29
                              Did you remove the stinger from the rear? That boat has a two piece drive shaft. Flex shaft has a square end that enters a seperate prop shaft. You either have to remove the motor or remove the stinger strut from the hull to get flex shaft out. And don't cut the Teflon tube. Just push it flush with the stuffing tube and the extra will fit inside the stinger strut at the stern.

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                              • boilo56
                                Senior Member
                                • Aug 2014
                                • 390

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Bryan73
                                Did you remove the stinger from the rear? That boat has a two piece drive shaft. Flex shaft has a square end that enters a seperate prop shaft. You either have to remove the motor or remove the stinger strut from the hull to get flex shaft out. And don't cut the Teflon tube. Just push it flush with the stuffing tube and the extra will fit inside the stinger strut at the stern.
                                I will try that, it is less work than removing the motor... And is there any place i can get the technical detail for the boat? Parts list or something like that?

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