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Hi - I have an orange and black 25" hull from Head of the River to build as a non-racer (Sportboat). After thinking it through and reading everthing in the forums I am considering to go with a Fiagao 540 12L with a bit over 2000 KV, (2) 7.4 3000 MAH (2 cell) Lipos in series, 120 Amp Castle ESC, 2 MM wire drive with carbon fibre tube from Etti, Etti adjustable motor mount, Thrustwasher at motor, 5mm to 2mm coupler from Hopf - with a long stand-off bracket for rudder. No trim tabs - just turn fins. No strut - just tube coming out of transom at desired angle with 3/16 prop shaft using threaded 4mm graupner carbon prop (start at about 38MM). Any and all opinions as to this set-up are appreciated. I am assembling my parts now and have them all now except motor and ESC. Is there a cheaper ESC out there (programmable) that would be OK? - Can I get away with no adjustability (No strut)? Thanks - Steve
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no fins!
IMHO, 3S would be enough, 4 will be very fast!
if you don't want to spend a too much in the ESC go for a Mystery, I have a 80A that I got for 10euro on ebay and it's still working fine after several 100A burst! the 100A version is 120A capable! -
Hi Ed - Thanks for the advice about the ESC - You said "No fins!" - What do you mean - SteveComment
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well, I have the 29" version and she handles very well so that turn fins are not necessary!
btw my 80A Mystery is moded, waterproofed and watercooled, I just received the 100A and I will make a waterblock, same as for the 80A, same principle as computer watercooling block, will try to post something about it!Comment
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Just got the Mystery 100A
OK Ed - I got the Mystery 100A ESC for less than $30. delivered! - I am awaiting a pistix from Offshore as well - What about the best water cooling method for it - Thanks - Steve - all opinions welcomeComment
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Just got the Mystery 100A
OK Ed - I got the Mystery 100A ESC for less than $30. delivered! - I am awaiting a pistix from Offshore as well - What about the best water cooling method for it - Thanks - Steve - all opinions welcomeComment
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some use aluminium blocks, either home made or purchased, some use aluminium plate and tubes attached toghether with JB's weld, you can do the same with brass plate and brass tubes and solder them, I made mine with 5mm thick plastic in witch Dremel did a 3mm deep 6mm wide path, this part is glued to an aluminium plate with RTV silicon (red), two fittings and it's done!Comment
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Cooler
I get it Man - Thanks - SteveComment
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mine is made based on PC's waterblock idea like this http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=105
I found it easy to build!Comment
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last one... here's the one I'm preparing for the Swang 100Amp esc.
The most difficult here is to build and attach fitting to the plate, if the plate is made of copper or brass you can solder a pair of brass tubes. The one I have on the 80Amp esc has different dimension but is based on the same idea, the plate is in aluminium so there's a little brass pad on top of it where the fittings are soldered, for this one I will use two home made fittings that are going to fit in the chamfered holes.Comment
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Thanks for the ideas Ed - SteveComment
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