internal access genesis

[moneypit]

Hi All

whats the best war to get tho the rudder bracket nuts internally on the genesis. do you guys use any special tools to reach in? otherwise how can i make this easier? can i install a thread and glue it in ?

Andrew

[tlandauer]

Hi, I use this little thing to hold the nut and get started: http://www.micromark.com/gripster-ho...tool,6734.html
Then a regular nut driver depending whether you are using metric or imperial system. http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN2806

[flraptor07]

I just take the socket that fits the nut and put a little piece of tape in it and put the nut in it then put the socket on a extention that's long enough and thread it on the screw. simple simple!

[NativePaul]

I reinforced mine with carbon then re-drilled the holes and tapped threads so no nuts are needed. I have had a similar issue on other boats and not having that spring clamp tool or a set of nut drivers, I have either slipped the nut into the end of a piece of fuel tubing, or tacked it onto the tips of a spanner with cyno. the fuel tubing is hard to use as it is so wiggly, but being flexible has its advantages in that you dont need a straight shot at it so that servo mount you glued in (or whatever) can't stop you getting to it.

[moneypit]

Thanks team some great ideas will give it a go.

Native Paul what did you do exactly to go "nutless"

[NativePaul]

First I filed out the holes for the rudder a little with a small rat tail file to clean them up and roughen the surface, then I stuck hatch tape over them on the outside, I cut 2 strips of carbon that covered the rudder mount protuberance and about an inch and a half into the hull, one bow tie shape for the vertical and the other straight for the horizontal, I painted the inside of the rudder mount and hull around it with a small amount of laminating resin and waited a couple of hours for it to tack up, then put the strips in place, I cut a whole bunch of carbon tows about 1cm/.5" long and filled the cavity with them and poured in laminating resin and agitated with a blunt stick, poked the tows down as best I could with the same blunt stick, I left it standing on its transom to dry, when dry remove tape from outside and sanded flat. I lined up the rudder and taped it in place, I lightly used a 3mm drill by hand through the rudder mount holes to make the centres for the holes, took the rudder off, drilled down 15mm (tape wrapped round drill bit) with 2.5mm drill, tapped the 2.5mm holes M3, screwed rudder on with a small dab of cyno about 10mm way down the M3x15 screws to serve as threadlock (actual theadlock weakens many plastics, no idea if it effects epoxy but thought it best not to risk it).

[moneypit]

Ok so in simple terms you thickened / strengthened the rear of the transom and created a thread in the transom for the rudder mount.

I am repairing the transom now as I hit a stick and cracked the hull so will give this a go. Will strengthening fiberglass work? Or will it need to be cf?

[NativePaul]

I didn't try it as I have CF doing nothing, but I would have thought so, just make sure you use decent epoxy laminating resin not epoxy glue or you won't be able to tap it.

My hull was cracked and split too, which it why I did it. I would probably just glued a piece of ply in, filled the holes, redrilled, and used nuts if I didn't need to repair the transom anyway.

[ls1fst98]

i used fuel tubing/wc line, cut a short length, like an inch, slip one end over a screw driver, other end slip the nut in, not you can get it started then use the right socket on an extension to tighten all the way.

[montymike]

I use hemostat to hold nut simple...