Fluid, in this pic is that esc a Castle?? If so do you have a thread on water cooling it? I have an XL-2 that is the same inside as 240 but, not sure how I want to boatify it? HELP!
Originally posted by Fluid
No. In your SAW application you want each cap to cross the positive and negative power leads. Your caps are too big to wire all the positive and negative leads together before they connect to the power leads. Putting them all together on a pigtail will reduce their effectiveness significantly if used on your powerful high rpm setup. Here is how I did it, the result was a reduction of ripple on 6S from 3.3 volts to just one volt at 260 amps. Highly effective in increasing performance and reducing ESC damage.
Yes it is a Castle ICE200LV aircraft controller. Maybe I can start a thread on moding these, there is a lot of interest and....I love Castle controllers.
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Pretty please and can you have it done by 5pm so I can work on my esc tonight. lol
Originally posted by Fluid
Yes it is a Castle ICE200LV aircraft controller. Maybe I can start a thread on moding these, there is a lot of interest and....I love Castle controllers.
No. In your SAW application you want each cap to cross the positive and negative power leads. Your caps are too big to wire all the positive and negative leads together before they connect to the power leads. Putting them all together on a pigtail will reduce their effectiveness significantly if used on your powerful high rpm setup. Here is how I did it, the result was a reduction of ripple on 6S from 3.3 volts to just one volt at 260 amps. Highly effective in increasing performance and reducing ESC damage.
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fluid, so what you do is glue all the caps together with + and - on caps perpendicular to power leads . then solder + cap to + esc lead and - cap to - esc lead?
Sorry, I meant to do that yesterday. It looks more complex than it is. All the caps are glued together first with E6000 with the negative sides facing the same direction (important!). After the glue is dry, gather three negative cap leads together and bend their ends into a hook to surround the power wire. Do the same for the three positive leads. Then do the same for the leads on the remaining two caps. Strip short lengths of insulation from the power wires and solder the cap leads in place. Make CERTAIN that you have the correct polarity!!!! If you lack soldering skills (mine are not perfect by any means) have someone else solder for you.
Because this is an extreme case I used the 1000 uF caps. These are 63 volt caps because on 8S the 35 volt caps are marginal. You could certainly get by with the 35v caps if you won't use more than 7S. Caps with high uF ratings will not "fill" or "empty" as rapidly as smaller caps, so adding a total of 3000 uF using six 500 uF caps might be more efficient than two 1500 uF caps.
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Because this is an extreme case I used the 1000 uF caps. These are 63 volt caps because on 8S the 35 volt caps are marginal. You could certainly get by with the 35v caps if you won't use more than 7S. Caps with high uF ratings will not "fill" or "empty" as rapidly as smaller caps, so adding a total of 3000 uF using six 500 uF caps might be more efficient than two 1500 uF caps.
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Now this is good info. I have not had the time to sit down and read the premptive answer thread. The little bit I did, it had formulas and more complicated info that I didn't have time to injest. This above comment helps a bunch. So basically you want the voltage rating on the cap about 20% higher than battery voltage and 500uf caps dispense and charge faster than a 1000uf cap....for my situation, (8) 500uf, 35v caps would be ideal for my 7s setup.......... so the last thing is...should I wire then in series, parallel or series - parallel?
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
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