Look at this drive shaft set up...

[electric]

I bought a boat out of Hong Kong ARTR. It appears to be a Delta Force knock off. I thought I would share some pictures of it for the group. I have never seen a drive shaft like this before? It is a two piece item. One piece is the cable that has a square end that slides into tube and connects with the second piece. It really is quite interesting. Because it is two pieces the thrust gets transfered to where the prop is to the plastic washer but does not transfer to the cable part of the shaft and thus to the motor. Has anyone seen this before?? I can't figure out how to pull out the lower shaft. Even if the cable part of the shaft is completely out (had to pull the motor and take it out the that way) the lower second shaft does not come lose??
Other comments on the boat:
1. Hardware is nice. The rudder is setup neatly to kick up with out the use of a shear pin.
2. The glass work is good, but it could a use a bit more polishing in that is has small "scratches" in the hull.
3. I hooked up my spektrum radio and it worked the fist time! No esc work or anything.
4. The guy shipped it on the 27th and it arrivedin Texas on the 4th. Very good.
5. Cost was 299.00. think it was about 330 ish with shipping...
6. One slightly amusing thing is that the prop was made out of pot metel and was completely blunt. I might try that out sometime just for grins to see what happens.
7. The boat is 33 inch boat roughly...haven't broken out the ruler yet.
I will try the boat out this weekend and see how it runs.

[rockwerks]

I have that hardware here Im going to use. The shaft just slides out the front side after you have taken on the drive dog and washer.

[electric]

Here are a couple more pics...

More..

[electric]

Thanks. I took the set screw off, but could not get the drive dog to come loose. Why does the drive dog prevent the shaft from coming off? Do you "push" the drive shaft forward through the tube to take it out rather than the normal "pull"? hmm. I was pulling on it pretty good and it would not come out.

[rockwerks]

Thanks. I took the set screw off, but could not get the drive dog to come loose. Why does the drive dog prevent the shaft from coming off? Do you "push" the drive shaft forward through the tube to take it out rather than the normal "pull"? hmm. I was pulling on it pretty good and it would not come out.

Yes you push it out through the front where the cable enters. the DD might have to be pried off, its a very tight fit. remember this is a 2 part system the cable si not attached permentally, it slides in the prop shaft to help absorb vibration etc, if the shaft could come out the prop side it would fall out since it free floats in the strut

[electric]

Great. Not too convenient for greasing eh? Still an interesting solution to transfer the thrust off of the motor. Do you have this boat? If so, any prop suggestions?

[rockwerks]

Great. Not too convenient for greasing eh? Still an interesting solution to transfer the thrust off of the motor. Do you have this boat? If so, any prop suggestions?

Nope just bought simular hardware off of ebay for my BJ26 build (a strut version instead of the stinger). I believe there is a grease port on the side of the stinger

[Skunk Works]

Hey there,

What size cable is that? Have not seen that Stinger out there....can you give me a lead on it?

What KV rating is the motor?

Just a note. A 33" hull with that type of BL motor will run very hot. I build a 25" vee with a couple different versions of that motor (3300 and 2700KV) and sometimes it tends to run on the hot side.

[electric]

Here is the spec:
Brand New 32" deep vee ARTR set. 2726 KV brushless water cooled out-runner motor with 125A ESC. Boat hull made up hand laid fibre-glass with yellow gel coat. Recommended for use of 4-6s Li-Po or 6-24 cells Ni-mh batteries (batteriesnot included). Speed reaches up to 90km/h. Radio system not included.

Specification:

Length: 32" (excludes rudder and strut)
Beam: 9"
Motor: 2726KV out-runner with aluminum water cooled motor mount
ESC: 125A with water cooling jacket (installed)
Drive system: collet, 3/16" flexi cable, brass tube, teflon lining, teflon washer, propeller, prop nut, drive dog, aluminum stinger drive (installed)
Rudder: 130mm aluminum (installed)
Turn Funs: aluminum (installed)
Trim Tab: aluminum with stainless steel plate (installed)
Other accessories: antenna mount, water tubings (installed), magic tapes for ESC

Here is the link:

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/jhocheung_W0QQQ5ftrkparmsZ72Q253A552Q257C39Q253A1Q257C66Q253A2Q257C65Q253A12QQQ5ftrksidZp3911Q2ec0Q2em14QQ_pgnZ4

[Avanti]

you will most likely need a bigger motor.
also I remember someone saying they had a similar boat and needed to epoxy the wood in as it came out on the second run.

Good luck, it looks good.

[rockwerks]

mine is all 4mm hardware. but Ive adapted the 3/16" props

[electric]

I have a 10xl with a Hydra HV 120amp that I had planned to put in the boat. Just thought I would take it out "as is" and see how it does. I did do some additional epoxy work on everything (Motor,servo,battery) since I saw this on another thread. I did notice that they are now using a bit of fiberglass on the motor mount and the servo area, so possibly they have improved the design a bit. I am going to run it with an x440 prop I have with 4s lipo's and see how that goes. I do have two 11.1 volt batteries I can try for a total 22.2 volts 6s2p. (I think I have that right) just to see if it holds together...

[Avanti]

nice bit of upgrades ready to go in I like the way you think.

your second set up would be 6s1p or 3s2p not 6s2p this would be 12cells

[electric]

Let me try and get the straight. If I am running 2 lipo batteries and each of them is 3s1p (11.1 volts a battery) for a total of 22.2 volts then I am running 3s2p correct? Therefore if I a running two batteries that are 2s1p (7.4 volts each) for a total of 14.8 volts I am running 2s2p? I used to run Nimh and have not gotten the lipo terminology down....

[ED66677]

no! 3S2P would be 11.1V total but if each pack is 4000mAh then you have a total of 8000mAh and double run time and max amp draw available!
2S1P means you have 1 pack of 7.4V 2S2P means you have two of them but in parallel, if you whant 14.8V you have to connect them in serie!
just to recap... in serie you increase voltage, in parallel you increase (and generaly double because you have to use the same capacity on both pack) the capacity as whell as the max amp you can pull out of the total batteries installed!
keep us posted I'm really interrested to see how this high kv motor will perform on a 33" hull!!!