overheating .20 whiplash

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  • Marc-André Voyer
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 4

    #1

    overheating .20 whiplash

    Hey guys, i built a wood whip this winter and have been having problems with battries conctors and esc overheating.
    i run
    -36 72 2200kv leopard
    -120a esc hobbywing
    -2 2s onix 5000mah 5.5bulet conectors
    Ive tried diffrent props 3 pladle 440 2padle 442 prather 220
    flex is smooth
    guys at the club have no idea so any help is appreciated thanks
  • Fluid
    Fast and Furious
    • Apr 2007
    • 8012

    #2
    Several things to check:

    - I believe that motor is a 'D' wind, so you should be running very low timing, 0 to 5 degrees max
    - How much of a gap is there between the drive dog and the strut?
    - How long are the wires between the ESC and the packs?
    - How long do you run the boat each charge?
    - How many amp hours do you put back into the packs after a run?
    - Is the boat running freely, or is it stuck to the water?


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    • Marc-André Voyer
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2014
      • 4

      #3
      I will drop the timming thanks...
      the gap is 1/8 maybe a lil more
      The wires are original length i did not had
      i run 6-7 laps on a regular course
      i charge my battries at 6amp
      the boat is pretty tight on water

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      • Fluid
        Fast and Furious
        • Apr 2007
        • 8012

        #4
        - I would increase the gap to 5mm just to make certain there is no contact between the drive dog and the strut. That can cause a lot of drag and increase amp draw.
        - Make the wires as short as pracrical, ideally no more than 20 cm total from ESC board to pack body.
        - Sorry, I was not clear. How many mAh do you put back in the pack after a run - 3300 mAh? 4100 mAh?
        - A tight running boat will draw more amps and be slower. Try loosening it up by raising the strup 2mm at a time. Make sure the strut is flat on a table, not angled up or down.

        .
        ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

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        • Marc-André Voyer
          Junior Member
          • Jun 2014
          • 4

          #5
          I put between 3000 mah and 4000mah each charge...
          my wires are shorter than 20cm all together
          the drive dog is at 6mm from strut
          now u say lift the strut... what should of been my start point?
          Thanks again...

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          • siberianhusky
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Dec 2009
            • 2187

            #6
            How are the solder joints? Can't add much to what Fluid says ( He knows more about rc boats than most of the people on here put together!) but a bad solder joint will heat up the connector and could cause the esc to heat up,
            They should all be nice and shiny as well as smooth, if they are dull looking, lumpy or kind of crystalized they need to be redone.
            I have the same boat almost ready to hit the water, just need an ESC, running a Castle 1515 2200kv in mine with a pair of 4s 4000mah packs. Be interested in hearing what the suggested setup is.
            If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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            • HydroMike
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2011
              • 334

              #7
              http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post555042 this is the 2nd run with a m445 and temps was around 115°f and it was tight to the water. as far as the set up mine was strut was at 3/4 flat now I just ordered another prop from dasboata (Chris) h-7 see how it goes this time hope this helps

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              • HydroMike
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2011
                • 334

                #8
                Oh forgot to mention this setup is using the UL-1 setup

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