need some advice with overheating

[bigkahuna]

Well call me a "newbie" call me "whatever" but in lanyman terms please, I could use some advice. I bought a UL-1 last summer and have had nothing but problems from day one, one way or another. According to one hobby shop the whole setup and advice I got from the hobby shop I bought the boat from everything is all wrong. First the receiver blew up after two runs, the servo stopped working, the stock ESC stop working and I replaced it with a Turnigy ESC, the batteries run cool as does the new ESC, but the motor gets very warm. The red wire off the motor has just about melted off the motor now after the last run. During the last run it ran pretty well it was running good but it quit after about three minutes, by the time I kayaked out to get the hydro the motor cooled down enough and I ran it in very slowing, the motor was very warm. The motor even gets hot sitting on the bench just after I plug everything in. I think the batteries are too much for the motor? This is what the #2 hobby shop said too, they also said that the motor is likely done. I'll give you my setup:
Aquacraft UL-1 stock motor 2030kv
new Turnigy 180a marine Esc timed @ 11:25
batteries: 2 X 6000 50C 2 cell
Prop: 40 X 57/3 Aquacraft
Prop shaft set at 1 1/8" from bottom
I added a larger cooling jacket from OSE as well and an extra transom cooling tube
That's about all I can think of. I'm thinking of repowering the boat with a Turnigy XK4074-B-2000kv or a Leopard 4074-2200kv. I this a good choice?
Any insight would be a big help. Maybe switching to a nitro boat and no more battery power, but I'm sure fuel boat have their problems too.
Thanks Big Kahuna

[JimClark]

how long are you running it for?
Batteries are just fine the hobby shop is giving you bad info on that one.
I would suggest that you look at the UL-1 forum as all the questions you could think up are answered there already.
Jim

[kfxguy]

I think you have:

Something binding on the flex shaft. ..maybe it doesn't have enough gap between the drive dog and the strut?

Bad connection ie cold solder joint?

Wires too long?

Crappy battery connectors?

Flex not lubed?

Defective motor (maybe find a buddy with the same motor and try it out?

If your going to replace the motor, I'd recommend a tp power motor.

[kfxguy]

And btw....lol at your nitro statement. You don't have that engine tuned perfectly....it flames out....lol...I've done the nitro and it's not fun. Sounds cool....but constantly jacking with the tune is not fun. Maybe a 2 stroke gas motor would be the better option.

[grsboats]

I don't think switching to a new motor will solve your issues.First of all try to learn with this experience what's going wrong with your set up....post a pic of it to give us more details of what probably you've not seeing.The T-180 is a bulletproof esc that stays cool even under stress of a bigger motor than yours.Batteries look ok.How long are your runs.....I don't see three minutes causing this high temp.Gill

[Fella1340]

What type/ size connectors are you using? 5.5mm bullets would be the minimum I would use on the setup. Like mentioned, pictures of the inside can provide a ton of information as well as a picture of the strut height and any observations you have, is it running wet? There's still a chance it could be the motor/bad motor wire. The guys will likely get you sorted out quick if you post the pictures. To much guess work otherwise.

[Luck as a Constant]

need some advice with overheating

Sounds like you've done everything rite. The motor could be faulty.
A 4074 2200 is overkill. The2030 stock motor is perfect for the ul1

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[RandyatBBY]

I have ran the UL-1 motor a lot in my boats. I am second it three classes in my district running that motor and ESC. The connectors on the motor to the ESC are the first thing I replace with 5.5 bullet connecors. Next I never over prop not sure on that three blade but, I run a 42X55 two blade with no problems at all.

[bigkahuna]

Thanks everyone for your input, here's a little more info. I have no driveshaft binding, proper gap between dog and strut. I had to extend the wire from the ECS to he motor so I do think its most likely a bad soldering job. What's the best way to join the wires to extend them, is it ok to use two sets of bullets in the same wire. I did use 5.5 bullet at the motor end. The big problem is that the motor starts greats warm even before it goes in the water and it starts to smell warm too.
I try and get a picture together if I have anymore problems after re-soldering. I mentioned switching to gas most likely due to frusteration
Thanks again.

[Fluid]

If the motor gets hot before you even run it then there is likely a problem with the ESC. No power should be going to the motor with no throttle input...



.

[bigkahuna]

My new Turnigy ESC 180a is brand new with only about 2 runs of about 3 to 4 minutes each tops. The stock ESC blew up after about 6 runs, the receiver blew up first, I read on a forum that the most recent models of the stock UL-1 motor may have some factory faults. Could a bad engine been the beginning of my problems. I understand that a bad motor won't have a connection with the receiver, but with the stock ESC and burnt wires? My son has a ProBoat and his runs like a champ and problem free.
Thanks Rod, bigkahuna

[kfxguy]

It is possible.....

[tlandauer]

Something is wrong, as Fluid pointed out, if you are not applying any throttle input, there should be no juice to the motor. Reading your history, it seems there is a chain of events. What did you do with the blown receiver prior to your ESC's failure?
You also said the motor smelled warm (hot), that is an indication of trouble to come, it happened to me on a brand new AC 1800kv motor , basically 2 minutes and it was shorted at the three wire exit. Not enough insulation I would say. I smelled the odor first but did not pay attention and
Is your transmitter ok? that is something you need to consider as well.
I would do a process of elimination. Get a known radio ( borrow from friend or whatever), then hook everything up and see if the motor is still warm. This happened a few years ago when my Tactic radio's throttle trim was slightly bumped but not enough to turn the motor, the motor was a little warm ( very little though), I looked at the trim and sure enough it wasn't centered.

[RandyatBBY]

What radio are you using? The reason I ask is that I have had a rash of customers using Aquacraft gold motors and UL-1 ESC with a Specrtum radio having troubles. And we have to put a little off center in put on the trigger of the radio.

[bigkahuna]

Well thanks for all the ideas to help fix my cooked wire problem ,but I was able to figure out what it was. Down inside the motor end cap the red wire if that matters at all was bare is a very small area and causing a hot spot on the casing. I put on some h.d. heat shrink, on all three wires and it has cured the problem, until something else comes up.
Something else that did come up when I ran the hydro last was it was having a hard time "hooking up" but when it did it went very well. As I said earlier my prop is a Aquacraft grimracer 40x57/3 and I have the prop shaft set at 1 1/8" from the bottom.
Any help with this? Thanks Rod / bigkahuna