The height of the strut wont necessarily cause an inefficent setup but more of just a poor running boat, actually if the strut is lower it will run lighter and a little faster? also reset the timing settings down to 3-5 degrees???
Sprint Cat 40/80 failures..?
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Here is some quick vids of the first runs on a slightly choppy day, before the first failure....
X452-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09SpeEncUUc
455 with an odd blowover-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jblctP4xvkE
I think Pags is onto something. If the esc was running at 80% then that would cause both, excess heat build and a slow boat. Doesn't explain the motors going though, unless the esc was taking them out.Comment
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The tp motor is cooked, I can't test anything with that. I am well aware of the sf calibration issues, I went back and forth with hifei on that for a couple weeks when I found the issue last year with this first 240+. When I was getting it repaired, they refused to acknowledge the issue until the day I caved and agreed to pay for the repair. The following day she emailed me updated software for the 300 and the 240. You can see the data logging shows 100%, as the controller software has been updated. If anybody wants this update lmk and I can try to email it btw.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2My private off road rc track
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As far as calibration, see my last post.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8Comment
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If the strut is too far down, it can't lift the hull far enough......
3-5 deg for a Y wind? I can give it a try......
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2My private off road rc track
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If the prop is down lower yes more blade in the water but less boat, which causes more amp draw????? I dunno??? Im grasping at straws w/ the timing thing it's just stuff I would try?We call ourselves the "Q"Comment
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The prop to low, on a sprint cat will cause a lot of porpoising. What happens is you get to much lift at the transom and it's trying to counteract the lift that you're getting from air being packed in the tunnel, therefore giving you a bouncy, unstable ride. Which also means more amp draw, and less speed.Comment
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Just an update here. I got my Neu 1527 back with a new stator. The old one was purchased through Castle, and had 13 AWG wires that were soldered inside, which seemed very small for this motor, and that is where it let go(the solder joint inside). The new stator uses the winding wires with no solder joint, I like this better. I have upsized the cooling lines, drilled out the jacket nipples and removed some material from the nipple bolt, and removed the thrust bearing. I have now run it with my old SF240hv(no data logging) about 10-12 times, 3 min each, strut ranging from 5/8"-3/8", with various props-DT'd X452, X455, 447(3), and a 646(3), 450(3) with tongues. Temps have all been fine, 130 max on motor, 150 max on ESC. I have only gotten mid 40's for speed though, and it has still porpoised a bit, but it's not terrible, but there is obviously a good amount of slip there. The roost is nice and flat too. I haven't played with the strut a whole lot, I was more interested in trying a few props to pick one to start working with. All of the props were just roughly B/S/P, now I will spend some time making them nicer, starting with the 450(3), as that seemed to have potential. I also need to get some work in on the ride pads, but with a better worked prop, and some experimenting with strut depth and angle, I think I'll be on my way.
Still no definitive answer on what caused the failures, as nothing real major has changed, but she's running reliable now so maybe I'll never know, could have just been a streak of bad luck. Thanks to those who contributed to my brainstorming process, I'll update when I get some better speeds, though I'm still always open to suggestions.......My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8Comment
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Wow, I've never heard of a Neu motor without the stator wires coming out of the motor, I assumed you meant that they were roughly equivalent to 13g in your OP, not actual 13g soldered inside the can. All my Neus have exposed stator wires and I see that as one of the bigger advantages of real Neu over Castle Neu as well as the vented endbells for better cooling.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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Wow, I've never heard of a Neu motor without the stator wires coming out of the motor, I assumed you meant that they were roughly equivalent to 13g in your OP, not actual 13g soldered inside the can. All my Neus have exposed stator wires and I see that as one of the bigger advantages of real Neu over Castle Neu as well as the vented endbells for better cooling.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2Last edited by kevinpratt823; 07-18-2014, 09:58 PM.My private off road rc track
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