My 2 cts is use present cooling system as 85 deg. pond water compared to 130 deg. motor temp. which is 45 deg. difference and live with it. I was reading on some forum where long rubber water lines have some flow resistance and to use aluminum tubing to make flow smoother. This would work where long lengths of aluminum could be used. Short lengths would increase resistance at each connection. Best to use the largest lines possible from point A to point B.
New cooling gimmics
Collapse
X
-
I didn't do the conversion, but your right 1 cup a minute.... That presents the next question: what is the optimum flow rate to maximize cooling the unit. That number is going to vary based each individual cooling system... material.... mass... chemical make-up of water...
Wait this is starting to sound like work!
I would never use a pump because I'm never in the situation where my stuff doesn't have time to air-cool between runs, but I could see salt water guys liking that water jacket piece (if they happen to run 36mm motors).Comment
-
New cooling gimmics
Definitely a good way to make a mess inside a boat or Rc car.
I can't see any practical use for that thing.
I'll keep mine simple and clean, the way it's always worked for me.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThere's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...Comment
-
Haven't been here in a while and this was the first thread that popped up curiosity. Lol!! Is all I can say,, looks pretty cool!! Haha. Sometimes when everything is running right and I'm having no problems I might dabble with some sort of cooling other than the unlimited cooling abilities of the water I'm in. It would surely take some amount of running away and give me something to take the hammer to :)Comment
-
Back in the old days I used to carry a cooler can with ice for in between heats. But a nice little inline pump would be good for the GF's runabout she insists on putting along with.Comment
-
For a science fair I helped my son to make a setup to test what rate of flow was better for cooling. Turns out that more is not better, slower flow rates cooled better.
My solution to cooling between heats is to use a 5 litre pressure (weed) sprayer plugged into the cooling. Works a treat.
I didn't do the conversion, but your right 1 cup a minute.... That presents the next question: what is the optimum flow rate to maximize cooling the unit. That number is going to vary based each individual cooling system... material.... mass... chemical make-up of water...
Wait this is starting to sound like work!NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.Comment
-
Ok ?
So you came up with more heat transfer with the slower flow,
I did that by using a smaller out let in my exit line a long time ago on my Rio mod.Last edited by Doug Smock; 03-30-2014, 09:40 PM.Comment
-
For a science fair I helped my son to make a setup to test what rate of flow was better for cooling. Turns out that more is not better, slower flow rates cooled better.
My solution to cooling between heats is to use a 5 litre pressure (weed) sprayer plugged into the cooling. Works a treat.Comment
-
-
Comment
-
For a science fair I helped my son to make a setup to test what rate of flow was better for cooling. Turns out that more is not better, slower flow rates cooled better.
My solution to cooling between heats is to use a 5 litre pressure (weed) sprayer plugged into the cooling. Works a treat.
The simplest and easiest to logically understand is:;
If you have a hot something hot, (your motor) and you pass a stream of water over it, (your cooling lines) how long do you think it will take to cool?
Verses,,, throwing that hot motor in the lake??
Doesn't get much simpler to understand than that, right??
In our boats, electrics, the laws of physics can not be broken, bent, or manipulated to any degree. More water flow at any temp lower than the object being cooled will always lower temp better. Think of heat as a criminal trying to escape. Heat is always trying to dissipate into its surroundings. Like a crafty criminal looking for anywhere to hide, the heat is trying to find a hiding place, somewhere lower temp. Now different surroundings enable this faster (more efficient) than others. Air is one, stagnate, not so good. Lots of air flow, better. Copper/aluminum have properties that allow heat to dissipate faster and farther than other metals. Anyway it's an old outdated guess that keeps this idea alive. Some people still believe warm Water put into ice cube trays will freeze faster than cold water put into ice cube trays. :)
Good luck and just trying to give some factual information that will only benefit your builds in the future. :)Comment
-
BRP has been using closed loop cooling on their 4-tec engines since they came out. It works well and I haven't heard any issues with it's effectiveness in warmer lakes. The heat exchanger is a metal plate mounted flush with the hull.
If I remember correctly Dave @ HRC said he measured the water pressure from a water pick-up is in the 15 psi range. These micro pumps would need to be able to push that much liquid through a closed loop system to provide equivalency.Comment
-
I seem to remember this argument too, I think part of the reason is the inclusion of discussion when there is a radiator. It seems to me that the more chance ( longer distance of coil with more fins) the heated liquid travels in the radiator and let the coils and fins do their work ( dissipating heat) , the better the cooling result will be obtained. But this is based on a closed loop system.
We constantly pick up water from the lake and so it is no doubt that the more volume/flow rate , the more efficient the cooling will be. I realize 85* water is not the most effective temp to cool a 130* motor. But as said, it will still bring the heat down.
The gadget that HK sells is cool, in my opinion one would have to provide constant air flow for the fins/coil to realize their potential. Such a system would have a penalty on the weight, especially a race prepped boat, unless, as my favorite saying goes "Am I missing something?"...Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
-
That old warm water to make ice faster cracks me up every time. It conflicts with the thermal dynamics I was required to learn for the day job.
As part of the day job I have to perform hydraulic calculations through piping. I can tell you this. The straighter (less curves or bends) that your cooling system has the faster the water can move.
About 10 years ago on the red board I asked if there was a point at which the tubing could have so much going on that the water would be rendered useless. Back then we traveled through the speedo, through a cooling coil, through a pair of brush coolers and then finally out. It was a hydraulic nightmare. The consensus was that I was over thinking it. Use the biggest tube you could get and move on.
A closed system like the HK setup doesn't makes sense to me for a boat. No air movement for the fins to do their thing. I still like the pump idea though. I don't care about the cooling ability under power. I want the capacity to cool at rest. Pump it from the lake. I may screw with this on one of my bigger boats because I can. Probably a bit higher capacity though than 1cup/minute.Noisy personComment
Comment