Strut help

[Ken_NJ]

Building my first FE boat, it's a mono. Motor and batteries should be delivered today. If I'm using a 1/4 flex shaft, that sits in Teflon tubing, which sits in a brass tube in the boat. Does the brass tube extend into the strut-stinger? Or does the brass tube end just before the strut and the Teflon goes into the strut? Need to know this to order the running hardware.

Is it as simple as if I'm using 1/4 flex, just order the 11/4 strut and I'll see how it goes together?

Any pics of that area would help.

[tlandauer]

Are you using a 1/4 cable with a 1/4 stub shaft? that will make a differerance when you order, since there are step down stub shaft that will accept the more popular 3/16 props.
Also the strut and stinger have different configurations.
On a stinger the brass tube extend thru the mounting plate of the stinger. It does not go beyond the adjustable barrel.
On a strut ( I am speaking on a 3/16 set up that is) the brass tube goes all the way thru the bore, then the floating bushing is seated inside the tube.
As you have already decided to use Teflon liner, it's going to be a big tube. 11/32"
5/16" tube when no liner is used.
Need to know the dia. that the stinger and strut will accept.

[Ken_NJ]

If I use the step down cable-shaft (1/4 flex-3/16 shaft) I'll have more props to go with. So let's say I'll go with that.
I have not decided to use the Teflon liner just yet as I've seen most boats on here do not use it. Should I not use it at all? And I have not decided on a surface or submerged just yet. Leaning towards submerged.

So for the stinger, the 3/16 spec would be for the dia of the stub-shaft? And this is what I would need to use the step-downed cable-shaft (1/4-3/16)?
On the strut, the brass tube goes through the strut-tube. Do the bearings that come with the strut fit inside the brass tube?

[tlandauer]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-1290\
You would still have to order a stinger or strut that was designed for 1/4" stub shaft, the step down is only for the prop and is at the end where the threds is located.
On the 3/16 strut I used, the floating bushing comes in the package. It inserts and free spins ( many people misunderstand this ) in the brass tube that is extended thru the bore of the strut.
I was spesking on a 3/16" set up i used, not saying anything you should do.
I have used the liners and also some set ups w/o the liner. On my 1/4" set up ( DF 45 Sniper) I have no liner, and it runs fine, you have to decided ultimately.
I am a bit foggy as to your referance to submerged drive vs. surface drive. I thought all the set ups we are talking about are surface piercing props. Sub. drive would mean the prop exits at the bottom and not using either strut or stinger. May be i am missing something here.
I am sure someone who has more knowledge will help you more than i can, just replied though you might be anxious to get some feed back.
Cheers.

[Ken_NJ]

That was the step down shaft I was looking at.
Not sure if I was using the correct terminology. When I said submerged that would be with the shaft coming out of the bottom of the hull. So I would need a strut like this attached to the transom.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-010-250
Then the 5/16 stuffing tube would exit the bottom of the boat, have a bend, and run all the way though the bore of that strut. And that description would be with no liner. That correct?

BTW, this is for a 80's era Dumas FG 45" inch hull: http://s11.photobucket.com/user/ken_...w/Kamma?sort=9

[tlandauer]

Well, I thought you were saying a "conventional" set up which is to mount the stinger on the transom, if you use a strut, the brass tube would still be exiting thru the transom. The bracket would mount high and the bore of the strut would be even at the the "V" . Some make a "wet chamber" set up so you have vertical adjustability. Do a search, I remember Tyler G ( Race Machenic)---not sure I spelled his user name correctly has a fabulous build on a mono that uses that set up.
Yes, a sub drive means the brass tube would exit on the bottom then curve but it precludes the use of a stinger, unless I am missing something which is often the case.

[Ken_NJ]

I'm probably not explaining myself properly. Thanks for sticking with me, forgive me I'm a scale model boat builder.

What I meant was, flex shaft exiting from the bottom of the boat going to this.... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-010-250 which would be mounted on the transom. So the tube in that strut would be below the V of the bottom. Is that any better? Is that conventional, or what would this be called? I was looking for a picture, oddly enough cannot find one.

Or I can use a stinger mounted on the transom with the flex cable exiting at the bottom of the V.

I'm not looking for speed breaking records on this boat, just want to have fun with it. I know the standard seems to be using the stinger on larger boats. I tried finding info that explained the difference between the two but did not come up with anything.

[tlandauer]

Well, before I make a fool of myself, I would venture to say that unless it is for scale appearance consideration, I have not seen a set up where a strut is mounted in such a way that the stuffing tube exits the bottom and curves then connects to the strut. Unless it is a catamaran or hydro or out rigger. I understand for sale look but wouldn't you want some other hardware for that total look? One or a few who built a Cracker Box might have done that, but that's another story...
As got FE setup, both stinger and strut exit at the bottom of "V" out of the transom. For handling reasons the exact point of the exit maybe a few millimeters above the keel ( to prevent chine walk). But as I say, with a wet chamber there is a lot more vertical room for adjustment.
Also some place their strut a bit on the starboard side to counter the torque that is generater by the power system , if you look at Proboat's Impulse 31 you will see that.

[Ken_NJ]

Tried looking for a picture online. Only came up with this, http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...chmentid=51108 although it is a cat, it is what I am describing. The shaft coming out the bottom of the hull forward of the transom, then with a slight bend going into the strut. On a deep vee, the hull would be riding on the water surface, but the prop would be totally submerged so that the whole prop is turning in contact with the water. Not like using a stinger where only part of the prop is underwater.

And I found you can also use a strut this way, http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...B2350S&Index=5

[tlandauer]

The picture you posted is what I was refering, the brass tube goes out at the bottom of "V" with a strut holding it. I understand what you are talikng about.

[Ken_NJ]

So is that way old school? Everyone seems to use a stinger with the shaft coming out of the transom.

[tlandauer]

So is that way old school? Everyone seems to use a stinger with the shaft coming out of the transom.

Stinger or strut.

[tlandauer]

You know, surface prop set up is more efficient and with the absence of the tube below the keel , there is less drag. Also you get the benefit of a trimmable prop, you can adjust the angle of thrust. http://www.seafury.com/a/About-Surface-Drives
Of courese we can't discount the differences between life-size boat and model boats, nonetheless...
On a Cat or hydro, once the hull planes, the tube is out of water. There is air under the tunnel which lifts the hull out of the water and the rear of the hull ( prop) is sitting" on the water. Take a hydro for instance, it is refered as a 3 point hull , only the front two sponson ride pads and the prop is in contact with water.