info needed on a neu 1518 1.5d amp draw and timing in a jae21fe

[daniellewis]

Can anyone tell me the correct timing for these motors as i have been told they do not like any advance in timing the esc i have is the castle hydra 240 in a jae21fe with tp5000mah 4s.First go with the timing set standard 1 deg the boat did not get out of the water changed it to 0 little better nothing spectacular Any idea of the ideal or rough amp draw for this motor /esc as i have just finished the boat and going to start changing props i have a abc props h4 h5 h7 h10
any info will be appricated

[daniellewis]

one more question whats the difference between a y wind and the d wind in a neu motor

[Fluid]

Your motor will run about the same on 0-4 degrees advance. Above that heat increase with no noticeable performance increase. The JAE is very easy to get on plane, what prop did you use? Is the strut pressed hard down on the ski and flat? Where is the CG of the boat? A few photos of the transom and interior may help us.


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[daniellewis]

Cg is around the back edge of the sponsonsimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[NativePaul]

Good looking build Daniel well done, Unfortunately I see a few potential problems in that first picture, but don't worry they are easily rectified.

The biggest is the rudder linkage, your clevis looks like it is being forced apart by the rudder arm, if the pin in the clevis doesn't stay in the hole, these clevises can easily flex and let go of the arm which often leads to a bad day. I cant see if the clevis is to small for the horn or there is an angular misalignment, but it can easily be fixed by using either using a bigger pushrod and clevis if it is too small, or adjusting the servo linkage height to minimise angular misalignment (these hulls need very little rudder movement so it may be as simple as using the innermost hole in the servo arm) / replacing the clevis with a ball link which is more tolerant of angular misalignment.

The drive dog is quite close to the strut, flex shafts wind up and get shorter when torque is applied and if you dont have enough gap between the drive dog and the strut they will rub and pull a lot more amps which is bad for the electrics and slows you down, the rule of thumb to start you off is that you want the same gap as the diameter of your flex shaft.

I used to use bullet prop nuts, but lost several props using them so no longer do, I would recommend using a locknut instead and changing it often for maximum security, but if you really want the bullet nut, run a regular nut on in front of it and use the Bullet nut as a jam nut behind it and tighten them against eachother.

[daniellewis]

What I have done and fixed adjusted rudder arm thanks nativePaul changed the firmware on the castle hydro back to v 1.03 no advanced timing shortened some wiring 1450 prop drawing 98 amps and the rigger is now a rocket thanks to everyone who helped