Which one rc boat ESC can use in out runner motor ?

[Billy Barnacle]

BOAT ESC = Waterproof!! -- Car / Truck ESC = Splashproof!!

Double check the web site. Now it reads splash proof ( not waterproof ). Do a google check for waterproof escs first!!!!!!

Don't know which website you went too, however, if you will follow either one of the links I put in my post #12 you find that it states...

Quote "SeaKing series ESC has water-cooling heat-sink and the whole ESC is waterproof" not "Splashproof."

Hobbywing calls they're car / truck ESC's "splashproof"... http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=279

The OP asked about BOAT ESC's NOT car / truck ESC's!! Think YOU need to do the checking there guy!!

For the record: I do have one of the HobbyWing 90-amp Seaking units.

I did have: one of the HobbyWing 60-amp Seaking units - see attached - that is the one I sold (on this very forum) - and wishing I didn't.

Hopefully that finally clears the air regarding exactly which brand / type / style and for what purpose ESC(s) I am referring too.

No clock winding please, I will keep my calm

[tlandauer]

To the OP:
Much as I hate to stir the pot here, and just to be clear: we are talking about the Hobby Wing SeaKing 60, 90 and 120 Amp ESC(s) here.
Just look at the pictures above, the unit is OPEN, wrapped in a black heat shrink tube. It is like a heli ESC with a cooling block. People have sealed them with liquid tape and other forms of method, but w/o end user's intervention, I would not submerge these units.

The Hobby Wing SeaKing/Turnigy 180 is "considered" water proof on the other hand, it is advertised as water proof and in my case it proved itself as being water proof, under water 30 minutes and no issues. However, the reason it is "waterproof" is that its FETS and all other innards are housed in a plastic box, this box is sealed with silicone sealant. How well the Chinese factory seals it is your---the end user's luck. There have been cases of failure reported. Hence the word "considered".

Splash or no splash, water proof or no water proof, one needs to make sure that there is no leakage in the boat!
Enough said!
BTW,
I did not mention the SeaKing 130HV ( water Proof) since this will not apply here.

[Billy Barnacle]

Hey Tim,
Like you, I am not trying to stir the pot, nor do I want to engage in trolling. Always looking to learn when the opportunity presents itself.

You said you would not submerge them without additional sealing...

Both the 60A Seaking unit pictured in post #16 and the 90A Seaking unit I still have, have been submerged as a result of boat flips and there were no ill effects to either one.

Both ends of the Seakings are sealed under the heatshrink wrapper - I modified one of the pix from post #16 to draw attention the area that I am talking about.

The reason I know about that area is because I got a little too rambunctious while removing the 90A unit from the boat (you know which one, pix were posted) after the first run and broke off one of the water pipes.

Wasn't about to throw a virtually new ESC away so I repaired it. Part of the repair involved cutting the heatshrink in that area to gain access (repaired it after), I saw plenty of sealant in that area - and added more after completing the repair.

The AQ 45A unit from SVR & AQ 60A unit they use in several of they're boats are really sealed up solid.

To date I have yet to see a legitimately 100% watertight boat, water just seems to have this nasty habit of finding a way in no matter what.

That said, what steps would you take or recommend for improving the Seaking ESC's in question?? Squeeze RTV in... Pour in epoxy... Etc, Etc

Thanks in advance

[tlandauer]

Hey Tim,
Like you, I am not trying to stir the pot, nor do I want to engage in trolling. Always looking to learn when the opportunity presents itself.

So glad that we are on the same page...
There can't be 100% water tight hull, but I wanted to point out that one should not make one's decision based on an ESC whether it is water proof or not. The measures taken to prevent excessive water entry should preclude unnecessary likelihood of electrical component failure due to water intrusion.
If someone tells me in my face that the SeaKing 180 is NOT water proof, my answer would be that it was water proof in my case and the SEALED plastic box design worked.
You are telling me in my face that in your case the water did not damage your ESC, GOOD FOR YOU!!!
I stand by my comment that I will not submerge these ESC ( SeaKing 60, 90 and 120)
Sealing these with liquid plastic is something I have seen first hand---bought a used one and that was what's on it, I can't vouch the effectiveness of that because I did not submerge it and when my boat flipped, there was no water inside!
At this price, I have not investigated nor invested the time or money to water proof them, my boats do not go fast enough to have cracked /missing hatch when such acrobatic feats are being performaned on them, I have no first hand experience and let's just leave at that.
And if I were going to "water proof" them as I said in post #17, End user intervention, here is an excellent example:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...756#post537756
That is exactly what I would do to my SeaKing 60, 90 and 120 ESC.
Perhaps you and I are both wrong in that this pot needs to be stirred real hard by someone who has more knowledge and experience than both you and I.

[lenny]

This way works pretty good to for me .

[lenny]

And testing it.

[Shun Tung]

Good video , you just use liquid tape spary is only waterproof ? Spary is it better than brush ?

Thanks!

[Southwest]

8888888

[tlandauer]

Go to OSE site and look up Hw 60 esc which reads splash proof and read a little further reads waterproof, take your pick!!!!

Exactly, take your pick and mine would be to go the extra step to make sure everything is coated as demonstrated in these tutorial videos. That's what I call User Intervention!!!

[Billy Barnacle]

Tim,
The only speedo's that I've actually "submerged" (not on purpose) were this one http://traxxas.com/products/parts/escs/nautica and the Seaking 35A unit I used for the BL conversion.

Trax unit is sealed, the SK unit has a rubber O-ring like the 180A Seaking / Turnigy unit you have to seal off the electronics {see attached} - note: cooling block is one piece unit with a rubber mat type thing between it & circuit board. I cut that boat up with a dremel tool + cutting wheel & put the remains in the recycle bin. I kept the BL motor & SK35 speedo.

The Seaking 60A or 90A speedo's have never actually "submerged" (that I'm aware of), what I was referring to was exposure to water from when the boat flips upside down and floats till it gets rescued. Typical flip to rescue time's are 30-minutes or more.

Lenny,
Have you tried that method with the Seaking 60, 90, 120 amp units discussed in previous posts?? If I remember right you used the 120A unit in your Rio EP BL conversion...

Curious what would / will happen if I cut the {black} heatshrink off my 90A Seaking unit. It's out of warranty, that went away with the broken water pipe, so that's not an issue.

FYI: Here's another thread on the subject of coating R/C boat electonics... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...formal-coating

Anybody have an opinion about this stuff??... http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-V...formal+coating

Thanks to those who stayed civil, as you can tell, I'm doing my best to do the same, despite continued heckling.

[Billy Barnacle]

Go to OSE site and look up Hw 60 esc which reads splash proof and read a little further reads waterproof, take your pick!!!!

Just to clear the air, it's been my experience that vendors often times have mis-leading / conflicting info about a given product. Not picking on Steve, Jan or anybody else, just sayin...

Personally I've found it best to go the manufacturer's website for {tech} info about they're product(s). If take a look at my previous posts you'll find the links went directly to HobbyWing's website for the products in question.

Regarding "splashproof", "waterproof", this proof, that proof, I like Darin's answer... see post #4 here... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...756#post537756

"They are advertised as "water-resistant" I imagine for warrantee reasons, but they are, for all intensive purposes, already water-proof..."

That said, I'm glad Tim & Lenny posted info on coatings, I took that stupid radio box outta my boat, so now the electronics have to be waterproof, specially the Rx, F balloons.

[Southwest]

Gentlemen, reading the escs on OSE say anti splash proof for the Hifei escs. The Swordfish 240 says encased in rubber to make is water resistant but not water proof. MR. OZ, I would read various sites like here and HK, HP, and others say the same. The best way too water proof a esc is to use Corrosion-X and let dry in window sill for A FEW DAYS. Conformal coating on esc will work on esc but not rxs. Reason on rxs is it coats the rx pins and cannot make contact till you use Corrosion -X which removes the coating on pins to allow contact. I did this on my rxs and thought C-X might help and it work great. I also use pcv pipe for motor coolers with 1/8" and use conformal coating and seals great which dries in 12 hours. Old timer here. BTW c-x on rxs works like Tactic and HK rxs.

[Billy Barnacle]

Gentlemen, reading the escs on OSE say anti splash proof for the Hifei escs. The Swordfish 240 says encased in rubber to make is water resistant but not water proof. MR. OZ, I would read various sites like here and HK, HP, and others say the same. The best way too water proof a esc is to use Corrosion-X and let dry in window sill for A FEW DAYS. Conformal coating on esc will work on esc but not rxs. Reason on rxs is it coats the rx pins and cannot make contact till you use Corrosion -X which removes the coating on pins to allow contact. I did this on my rxs and thought C-X might help and it work great. I also use pcv pipe for motor coolers with 1/8" and use conformal coating and seals great which dries in 12 hours. Old timer here. BTW c-x on rxs works like Tactic and HK rxs.

...Conformal coating on esc will work on esc but not rxs...
I've been reading up on the subject of conformal coatings for most of the afternoon because of Tim's post #19 & the vids Lenny provided links to in posts #20 & #21.

Also checked out this thread... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...formal-coating

In the first vid Diesel talks about coating a Tactic TR-324 Rx, that's the brand I use for my surface models - Spektrum for air.

The consensus seems to be that conformal coating is not an issue with Rx's provided you mask off the pins prior to applying the coating.

Most of us have spare Rx connectors from electronics that went bad, just plug them onto the pins, then apply the coating.

Another method that seems like it should work would be to cover the pins with heat shrink tubing. I plan on coating the Rx (probably the ESC too) for my boat; guess I'll find out what the best method of protecting the pins is at that time.

[lenny]

Yes,
And yes spray is better.

One of my boats with no tape on the hatch,
Now look and see all the water that was in the hull when I pulled the drain plug at 5:14.
Than I just put the drain plug back in and go again all day long like that.

Good video , you just use liquid tape spary is only waterproof ? Spary is it better than brush ?

Thanks!

[lenny]

Yep.

Tim,
The only speedo's that I've actually "submerged" (not on purpose) were this one http://traxxas.com/products/parts/escs/nautica and the Seaking 35A unit I used for the BL conversion.

Trax unit is sealed, the SK unit has a rubber O-ring like the 180A Seaking / Turnigy unit you have to seal off the electronics {see attached} - note: cooling block is one piece unit with a rubber mat type thing between it & circuit board. I cut that boat up with a dremel tool + cutting wheel & put the remains in the recycle bin. I kept the BL motor & SK35 speedo.

The Seaking 60A or 90A speedo's have never actually "submerged" (that I'm aware of), what I was referring to was exposure to water from when the boat flips upside down and floats till it gets rescued. Typical flip to rescue time's are 30-minutes or more.

Lenny,
Have you tried that method with the Seaking 60, 90, 120 amp units discussed in previous posts?? If I remember right you used the 120A unit in your Rio EP BL conversion...

Curious what would / will happen if I cut the {black} heatshrink off my 90A Seaking unit. It's out of warranty, that went away with the broken water pipe, so that's not an issue.

FYI: Here's another thread on the subject of coating R/C boat electonics... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...formal-coating

Anybody have an opinion about this stuff??... http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-V...formal+coating

Thanks to those who stayed civil, as you can tell, I'm doing my best to do the same, despite continued heckling.