Motley Crew Malfunction

[Navherc130]

Anyone use an AQ 2030 (UL-1) motor in their Motley Crew? My setup was that motor, Turnigy 120 Aquastar programmable and 2 x 2s 25C 5000mah with the 42 x 55 prop from Aquacraft. Motor done and I am sure speed control done. If 2030 is only a few Kv over the 1800 Kv...and 120A esc, why the malfunction? Aside from the deans melting a little..current was still flowing. Wires at base of 2030 can all black now (I had extra shrink on it to prevent shorts) and motor cogs to death and I am sure shorted the motor out. She was cruising real good till the abrupt stop. Curiously I ran this same setup 4 days ago and all was well. Maybe my water line was clogged and caused serious overheat to melt shrink at motor can causing chain reaction? What should a safe Kv motor be above the 1800 for just a little more speed? I figured wrong in my setup and burned up a few bucks. Lesson learned, now looking for answers.

[Fluid]

That is simply too much motor/prop for the MC unless it is flying with little water contact. You were likely pulling well over 100 amps and were stressing the ESC with marginal cells and connectors. It is possible to make it work with the 2030 motor but the boat has to be running very cleanly and run time must be controlled. So what if it ran fine last time? ESC and motor damage can be cumulative, meaning you add a little more damage each time you run until - poof! A Leopard 4074/2000 and a T180 would give you decent speed and reliability....but replace the connectors! What speeds are you wanting? I get almost 50 mph with my MC and stock motor/ESC.


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[lenny]

How much run time did you get out of the cells you were using this time,
And the last few time you ran that setup ?

You could run 5s on the 1800kv motor with a turnigy or seaking 120a esc,
And 5.5 bullets all the way.
Then do some test props for temps and speeds,
I would start with a x440/3 prop.

Anyone use an AQ 2030 (UL-1) motor in their Motley Crew? My setup was that motor, Turnigy 120 Aquastar programmable and 2 x 2s 25C 5000mah with the 42 x 55 prop from Aquacraft. Motor done and I am sure speed control done. If 2030 is only a few Kv over the 1800 Kv...and 120A esc, why the malfunction? Aside from the deans melting a little..current was still flowing. Wires at base of 2030 can all black now (I had extra shrink on it to prevent shorts) and motor cogs to death and I am sure shorted the motor out. She was cruising real good till the abrupt stop. Curiously I ran this same setup 4 days ago and all was well. Maybe my water line was clogged and caused serious overheat to melt shrink at motor can causing chain reaction? What should a safe Kv motor be above the 1800 for just a little more speed? I figured wrong in my setup and burned up a few bucks. Lesson learned, now looking for answers.

[gsbuickman]

I'll agree with Fluid & Lenny. I am guessing your 2 main problems are your 25c cells & the deans connectors. I wouldn't recommend running an MC with cells under 30c, preferably 40c. Real deans connectors are rated at 60a max current. You need to replace them with 5mm bullets for smooth current flow.

I bet you were pulling 100a thru 60a deans . They acted like a dam on a river and starved the ESC and Poof, the smoke of death

As far as your motor/ESC, its a great combination. I have the same setup in my mean machine cat pushing an x445. It does alright, but still needs some tuning

[Navherc130]

I appreciate all the input. I had a conversation with my LHS to explain the C rating to me and it was of their opinion that it is initial burst/holeshot performance, but once boat is on plane at speed, current draw is (should be) the same after initial current delivery. Is a 445 prop smaller than the AQ 42x55? I assume it is. MAybe start with a 442? I just ordered 6mm bullets,& swordfish 120 from OSE parts to eliminate the deans. But was running probably just over 5 min when shutdown occured. What is a good Leopard to replace the AQ 1800 straight up? One slightly larger that won't do damage? will a 4074 fit on stock mounts and under cowling? LAke is large enough to do large ovals at full bore..which I was doing. I figure now the melted deans were the culprit in the initial electron attack. Maybe I had prop too high also? Mild porposing on straightaways at speed..you could easily hear it/see it. I thought the T120 had a temp shutdown feature. I thought wrong or too little too late? Brand new batteries. How does UL-1 get away with the 60A & 2030? Lighter boat? Thanks everyone

[Wetter]

Funny Motley crew as a band was a malfunction!
sorry had to respond, boat is rad though yea i am sorry they play crappy music once again my opinion.
personally the only flaw with the boat they get Royalties off ya.

[lenny]

LHS !

I had a conversation with my LHS to explain the C rating to me.
And it was of their opinionthat it is initial burst/holeshot performance,
But once boat is on plane at speed current draw is (should be) the same after initial current delivery.

Do you have any video's of the boat running with that setup before the melt down ?

And the boat airing out is a good thing to lower amps and drag of the water,
The deans and to much run time on those cells did you in.

What were all the temp running at on that setup ?

30c to 40c is what boat setup need to be happy.

42mm is smaller.

5.5 bullet connectors are the way to go on total setup.

4074 would fit but you do not need it in that hull.

[Fluid]

Motley crew as a band was a malfunction! sorry had to respond, boat is rad though yea i am sorry they play crappy music once again my opinion.
personally the only flaw with the boat they get Royalties off ya.

Motley Crew is not a band, it is a boat racing team. Perhaps the poster would benefit from reading glasses?

I had a conversation with my LHS to explain the C rating to me and it was of their opinion...

There's your problem, listening to the LHS 'experts'. Their opinion doesn't matter, what matters is reality. Your setup was doubtless averaging well over 100 amps, and 25C/5000 mAh packs are maxed out. Add in the Deans and a lot of small gauge wire and the result is inevitable.

I gave a motor recommendation in my post above. The UL-1 is a hydroplane, which runs faster and with less drag than any cat or mono. AquaCraft understands this - that's why the 1800 Kv motor in the Crew and the 2030 in the UL-1.


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[iop65]

LHS experts !

most of them would sell anything they have in stock and haven't got any clue what they are selling

i can understand that they can't be experts in eveything but at least they you should know that a 25c lipo and deans are not able to deal any reasonable current;it will heat up everything ( wires/connectors/ lipo's/ esc)


25c lipo's and deans are for cars or planes

like fluid writes :your biggest problem is listening to that expert :-)

oh , maybe another thing : i suggest you get that boat running like it should with the stock motor/power before throwing in faster stuff ,you're talking about porpoising now....
i find it rather pointless bying good stuff without knowing how to use it,you seem to know little about props too ....learn before buying

just my 2 cents

[Timmy]

The band is spelt Motley Crue anyway. so no need for royalties. anyhow, kickstart my heart was and still is a great song...philistine.

[properchopper]

LHS experts !

most of them would sell anything they have in stock and haven't got any clue what they are selling

i can understand that they can't be experts in eveything but at least they you should know that a 25c lipo and deans are not able to deal any reasonable current;it will heat up everything ( wires/connectors/ lipo's/ esc)


25c lipo's and deans are for cars or planes

like fluid writes :your biggest problem is listening to that expert :-)

oh , maybe another thing : i suggest you get that boat running like it should with the stock motor/power before throwing in faster stuff ,you're talking about porpoising now....
i find it rather pointless bying good stuff without knowing how to use it,you seem to know little about props too ....learn before buying

just my 2 cents

WELL SAID !! You hit upon something that just PERFECTLY describes so much of what happens in the early stages of FE learning/evolution. How often does one see posts which go something like this : " I just ordered a (insert any popular rtr) and I want it to gofaster, what mods are indicated?" This before ANY in-the-water time is spent learning the basics. Whatever !!

MC / AQ 2030 / T-120 / 4S2P Dinogy 65C/130C 4000's / tweaked M445 stator burner
2012 NAMBA Nats Second Overall P-Ltd Cat - SCSTA P-Ltd Cat 2013 High Points Champ

FWIW I'm stepping down to the 1800KV motor for next season-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezGYkCaaj2U

Zi6_0567.jpg

[Navherc130]

Whoa...I never claimed the hobby shop dude was an expert. Wow you guys can bust balz. Which is alright, because I bust others all the time. I'll go back to the 1800KV and upgraded connectors and better batteries. I just made the wrong assumption that a 120A esc with only 230 more KV spinning at roughly 30K and change would be OK. I mean who would not make the honest mistake....AQ 60A esc comes with deans, so how is a new guy to know. However, maybe I should have figured the deans were the weak link and not considered the prop. AQ recommended that prop as best general performance with stock setup. As I said, I figured the 120A esc with only a few more KV in the grand scheme of things would work. Maybe it would have with 2-3 minute run. BTW did not get batts from LHS...conversation was after the fact when I did some albeit incorrect fact-finding. I burned up the boat shorly after our talk, but never mentioned run times. I did not think 2030 was really overkill. Like I said...lesson learned. Its all good. Ciao.

[Timmy]

Yea, I think some peoples are being a bit harsh. Trial, error and experimentation is a big part of our hobby. Maybe try hxt90 connectors instead. They're tough, cheap and really easy to solder.