Trying To Avoid and Electrical Mess

[rickwess]

Here's what I'm trying to connect:

• 2x 6S LiPo's
• Swordfish Pro 200A ESC
• BEC
• Capacitor Bank (optional?)

The motor part is obvious, but it will either be a LP4082 or NEU1521.

My first question is if you think the cap bank is required? I expect the max current draw to be 140A.

My second question, as the title states, is how to avoid the all electrical connections looking like a dogs breakfast? I was thinking about building a couple of terminal blocks that each of the above can just plug into. Solder the connectors together, then pot them with epoxy into a small box made from CF or 1/8" ply. Here's a basic drawing with top and side views. An extra set of bullets would need to be added if a cap bank was being used.

Terminal Block.JPG

I'd love to see pics of other set-ups.

[ray schrauwen]

What is the application? Mono or Hydro or cat?

I use UBEC's but, I also use a separate small 2S lipo of LiFe pack to avoid wire mess. What KV?

If you have the $$ for a Neu 1521 I suggest that or TP Power as they seem to be a bit nicer than Leopard.

Cap bank depends on how hard you plan to push the setup or how hot of a wind you use.

[rickwess]

Sorry............Boat is a DF35. I'm leaning more towards the LP4082 1600Kv.

The main question was about the mess of wires. Trying to connect 2 batteries to an ESC and a BEC with a possible cap bank.

[Doby]

More connections= more resistance....not usually a good idea.

[rickwess]

More connections= more resistance....not usually a good idea.

For sure.

With a 2 battery set-up though, I'm already committed to a parallel adaptor between the batteries and ESC. The terminal block idea doesn't add more connections between the batteries and the ESC than what I'd have to do anyway. It just allows for a neat and clean tap for the BEC and cap bank.

[properchopper]

Not sure this helps as it's in a cat which has the batteries spread out in the sponsons, but

DSC04861.JPG DSC04862.JPG DSC04859.JPG

[rickwess]

Not sure this helps as it's in a cat which has the batteries spread out in the sponsons, but

It does. I'll have to locate the batteries on either side of the keel so it will effectively be a similar layout. To keep the CoG close to 30%, I'm thinking they will be pretty much right beside the motor. Either that or the motor will need be mounted far forward. I'd like to keep the flex cable shorter though.

[steveo]

Not sure this helps as it's in a cat which has the batteries spread out in the sponsons, but

[ATTACH=CONFIG]107051[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]107052[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]107053[/ATTACH]

Super clean layout, where did u get the clips holding ur parallel wires nice touch. I have to say I did the same type of motor mount glue in method but not enough glue area and motor mount popped loose just a heads up I know your boats are fast hate to see you have redo any nice work

[properchopper]

Super clean layout, where did u get the clips holding ur parallel wires nice touch. I have to say I did the same type of motor mount glue in method but not enough glue area and motor mount popped loose just a heads up I know your boats are fast hate to see you have redo any nice work

Thanks for the compliment - my very early builds years ago gave new meaning to the term "bowl of spaghetti" look but over time I found cleaner layouts are worth the time during the build stage so working on/upgrading later on is less hassle.

The TOP SECRET/CASSIFIED ultra-slick wire holders are just simple automotive spark plug wire separators which come in a set for 6 cyl or V8 cars - I found these on ebay. Work nicely to route waterlines as well :

DSC05035.JPG

If you look closely to the right-most picture of the Cheetah you'll see another O-C trick to hide the esc wire ; it passes through rectangular brass tubing (painted grey) to hide/route the esc trigger wire - slick if I do say so myself

After bouncing an entire motor/battery tray rail setup loose with hobby store epoxy, it's West Marine 24hr. cure GFlex and stuff ain't never coming loose again

[rickwess]

After bouncing an entire motor/battery tray rail setup loose with hobby store epoxy, it's West Marine 24hr. cure GFlex and stuff ain't never coming loose again

I like the boxing in of the rails so you can easily build up the epoxy. I assume there are holes in the bottom of the rail to allow the epoxy to flow through. At this point, the hull will fail before the joint does.

[properchopper]

I like the boxing in of the rails so you can easily build up the epoxy. I assume there are holes in the bottom of the rail to allow the epoxy to flow through. At this point, the hull will fail before the joint does.

Always drill holes sometimes (but not always ) I get them in a straight line)

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