Apparition flex/prop shaft adjustment?

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  • mongo
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 13

    #1

    Apparition flex/prop shaft adjustment?

    Hi guys,
    I'm new to boating but I've been in RC for a long time.
    I got the apparition (single motor).
    I took it apart and checked everything before my first run.
    Now for the question. I've greased the flex and prop shaft with SKF bearing grease (probably not the best choice but I had it on hand), I've left the outside of the teflon tube ungreased of course.
    I also left a bit of a gap between the flex and prop shaft (3-4mm) and adjusted the motor so that it doesn't push on the teflon tube in any direction. I also made sure the teflon tube isn't contacting the prop shaft (put a bit of hot glue where the teflon tube exits the bras tubing (motor side).

    When I run it with the prop attached (not in the water) I can feel quite a bit of vibration and the brass tube gets warm near the prop shaft. It's the stock plastic propeller, I tried to balance it but my magnetic plank balancer it's accurate enough. The current draw is ~10A. Is this normal?

    The shaft and teflon tube seem to be in perfect condition otherwise.
    I just want to make sure before I put her in the water.

    Thanks guys.
  • mongo
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 13

    #2
    Update:
    I've made a few kinks in the teflon tube and that seemed to eliminate the vibrations.
    Had a few great runs and then the caps blew on the Marine 120A, the FETs seem fine though and the ESC still works. Now for the obvious question of what and how many caps to get (the stock are two 35V 390mF).

    Comment

    • Alexgar
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Aug 2009
      • 3534

      #3
      You can order a cap bank or go to radio shack or electronics store and get some more just make sure they are high speed zlh capacitors. Apparition is a great boat but might think about upgrading your flex

      Comment

      • mongo
        Junior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 13

        #4
        Thanks for the quick reply.
        I've ordered a few of these:
        http://si.farnell.com/rubycon/50zlh4...50v/dp/8127107
        and
        http://si.farnell.com/rubycon/50zlh1...50v/dp/8127085

        I'll replace the stock 390mF with 470mF (should be fine right?) and add two 1000mF on the battery leads.

        The stock flex should be fine for a while on 4S. Will definitely look into upgrading if (more when) I move to 6S.
        Any tips on what to get when I do? Preferably a shop in EU. I'd like to keep the stock bras if possible.

        Thanks Alex.

        edit: Btw the rudder seems quite lazy. Is this normal for cats? I can't get more throw without hitting the hull with the servo arm.

        Comment

        • Alexgar
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2009
          • 3534

          #5
          should be ok the 1000s on the leads should help alot. I wonder why it happened what kind of batteries and motor are you running?As far as upgrading you can order some 3/16 bushings an drill out your strut or order one already done depending on whats more comfortable to you. The stock cable probably lasted me about 12 runs.Share some pics for the rudder so i can see what were looking at

          Comment

          • Alexgar
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2009
            • 3534

            #6
            pics

            Pics
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • mongo
              Junior Member
              • Sep 2013
              • 13

              #7
              Thanks for the pictures. Nice setup!
              I'm running the stock motor, 120A Marine ESC on 4S (2x 4000 2S 40C in series).
              You're saying that the stock flex probably won't hold my setup for long?
              No wonder it turned like a Mustang, I had the servo reversed (servo arm towards the hull) .
              I reversed it now and went one hole up on the servo arm. Should be much better now.
              I think I'm running a bit wet though, it takes a while for it to pop out of the water. It doesn't porpoise at all though, so that's a good sign.
              Could you take a picture of your strut adjustment please, or just describe it to me. Also what CG are you running at?

              Thanks Alex.
              Last edited by mongo; 09-14-2013, 04:14 PM.

              Comment

              • Alexgar
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Aug 2009
                • 3534

                #8
                setup

                Current setup is a aquastar 120 with a lehner 1940/7 4s 40c with a pb ss b/s/p prop with a cog about31-32% and level struts high 40s love this boat but be sure to add flotation as they don't come with any and will sink
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • mongo
                  Junior Member
                  • Sep 2013
                  • 13

                  #9
                  I set my strut way way lover.
                  Could be why the caps blew, was probably way over the current limit running the prop submerged that deep. I'm lucky the FETs held up
                  I did remove the silly thermal pad, lapped the heatsink and put on some proper thermal paste.

                  Floaters already installed, thanks for the tip anyway. I also put one on the cover, with my luck I'd eventually lose it for sure.
                  I noticed you're cooling the motor mount. Does it do much or just create more resistance?
                  I bypassed it and run water pickup->esc->motor->outlet.
                  Attached Files

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