Motor mount glue/epoxy

[wiljm]

I am new to the hobby, just ran my Genesis for the first time. Everything ran great except at some point the battery trays and motor mount all came unglued from the hull. What is the process for gluing it back down and what kind of glue should I use?

Sorry if this answer is elsewhere, I did searches and couldn't find a simple answer. I assume I just scuff up and clean the hull and use a 2 part epoxy. Any suggestions you can offer would be appreciated. Thanks!

[tlandauer]

wiljim,
it is not uncommon to have RTR boats with this issue. The glue gets undone for several reasons which will be a waste of time to list here.
First thing you need to do is get rid of any old glue, then clean the area with acetone, then use 100 grit sand paper and sand , sand, sand. Sanding the floor as well as the motor mount rails, any areas that are to be glued need this be done.
As for the kind of glues you have some choices but since you are new to this I would suggest get some 30 min. epoxy. it is a 1:1 ratio mix and there is no chance to mess up. Any brand will do, I use Z-Poxy, but your LHS may have other brands, get 30 min. version as the 5 min. version is too brittle after it is cured.
I like J-B Weld as well, you can get them at auto parts store or hardware store. It cures in a dark gray color, so you might not like that, as compared to EPOXY which usually cures in almond opaque.
BTW, if you use J-B Weld, it cures much slower than the 30 min. epoxy so you need to be patient.

[wiljm]

Perfect, thanks, I'll do that.

[785boats]

After all that, I also epoxy in some carbon fiber rods along the mounts & the floor to strengthen everything & take the flex out of the floor & mounts.
I do the same thing in monos & hydros too.
Works a treat.

[jetnfast]

+1 to JB weld. I used it to install the motor mount on my CF Daytona. Solid as a rock. Scuff up the mounting area to be installed and scuff up the mount surface to be installed and you should be good to go. Let it sit overnight undisturbed for 24 hours to fully cure. I also used JB weld on the stuffing tube mount and it also has been solid as a rock.

[kwiktsi]

On the cheap- 30 min epoxy or JB weld, I prefer the JB weld. A bit pricey but was highly recommended to me here and is awesome is West Systems G-Flex epoxy. Now that I have used that, I will probably never use anything else for motor mounts and such.

[wiljm]

Thanks guys. I think I have it fixed. I ended up just going with a 2 part epoxy. I squirted it into a Ziploc bag to mix it up, then cut the corner off the bag so I could make two nice big beads. It seems like it's pretty rigid.

[tlandauer]

Thanks guys. I think I have it fixed. I ended up just going with a 2 part epoxy. I squirted it into a Ziploc bag to mix it up, then cut the corner off the bag so I could make two nice big beads. It seems like it's pretty rigid.

good to hear.
Did you use the ones came with the two equal volume syringe? If not, and if I may say---it is not meant as a criticism: the two part epoxy really requires precise mixing. You may be able to do something which I can't, and that is to say without the proper mixing cups I would not be able to tell if I am doing something right or wrong. This is just a friendly reminder/suggestion.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK360&P=ML

[wiljm]

Yes, it was the two syringe style stuff.

[tlandauer]

Yes, it was the two syringe style stuff.

Great!

[gsbuickman]

+1 for 2 part epoxy, jb weld, stringers & carbonfibre.
I was doing a rebuild of an 80's mono recently. I wanted to reinforce the hull with carbonfibre, but I couldn't get into the bow to get it laid right. I ended up picking up 3 or 4 syringe style gorilla glue epoxy sets. I mixed all the epoxy in a paint mixing tray, & poured it right into the hull. Gorilla glue epoxy is runnier than most, which is what I was after.

It ended up self leveling & covered every millimeter of the bottom of the hull 1/8'' deep. I set the new motor mount in the epoxy bed, and squared the hull with a level & let it set for 24 hours. It worked awesome. The bottom of that hull was rock solid....

[flraptor07]

+1 for 2 part epoxy, jb weld, stringers & carbonfibre.
I was doing a rebuild of an 80's mono recently. I wanted to reinforce the hull with carbonfibre, but I couldn't get into the bow to get it laid right. I ended up picking up 3 or 4 syringe style gorilla glue epoxy sets. I mixed all the epoxy in a paint mixing tray, & poured it right into the hull. Gorilla glue epoxy is runnier than most, which is what I was after.

It ended up self leveling & covered every millimeter of the bottom of the hull 1/8'' deep. I set the new motor mount in the epoxy bed, and squared the hull with a level & let it set for 24 hours. It worked awesome. The bottom of that hull was rock solid....

This sounds like a awsome idea kills two birds with one stone. You might even try mixing some powdered fiberglass in with it for even more strength!

[gsbuickman]

Yrah, good idea. I didnt want to get tko froggy with a 30 year old hull that was originally a 27t brushed motor setup. It turned out nice though. I feel sorry for the guy that tries to pull the motor mount or the stuff tube......

[tlandauer]

I don't know what is the dia. of your tube, when we ditch the liner, we use .187 cable with the same 1/4" K&S brass tube. Chinese boats have a slightly different tube sizing. But yes, you can do that.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-ks-brass-tb

I personally do not think the liner adds that much more friction, if it is maintained properly, and the hull is not too large for a .150 cable, I would run the boat with the liner. It is a different story if you have a larger boat and must use a bigger cable. I run two of my boats w/o the liner and it is fine too.

[wiljm]

Thanks! I deleted my post just assuming bigger was better and was going to order bigger. Based on your reply, I'll just stick with what I already ordered. I suppose the worst that can happen is it breaks again.