Kyosho jetstream 888ve, anyone have tryed that boat?

[waterproof]

Thanks for replays Tlandauer and Wetter!

I have bought it now and i was very happy! The hull is realy nice and all stickers seems to be under a clear paint so its not going to fall of.
The boat is stabile and fun, but suddently when i drive its flip around and it didnt turn around by himselv, i swim out there and pick it ut and when i open it i see its full of water! Thats explane why it dosnt turn around when it flips.

The two screews that holds the propeller mecanism have got loose and it have take much water inside the hull, the motor and esc was full of water, and the deans cable and Connector have also been under water.
Its been a short first run and im not impressed at all, this must be a quarantee case if something is damaged of the water? This boat is not ready to run right out of the Box as they said, all screews shold be glued.

Kyosho jetstream is realy nice but im not happy at all because of this issue. I hope tomorrow that i could try it again without any issues.

The only other thing i dont like about this boat is the small Hatch and small Space, its not easy to replace the battery and get into the set screw for the flex shaft.
I could recomand this boat and its worth the money if you get one that not loose the screw and take in a lot of water and beat ut the Electronic.
The paint is mutch more colorfull and nice in real, the pics on kyosho site dosent show how beauty this is :)

I could post pics and maby a video later if someone is interessed.

When the boat is on the roof with a lot of water inside because its leaks water there the screew should sit then the lipo battery and deans Connector and motor cables is full of water, how bad is it for a rc boat to get water on the deans Connection,esc and motor?

[tlandauer]

Sorry to hear your problem.
Which two screws are you refering? Yes, A picture would help. You should wait a few days and make sure everything is dried before running again, but, if you want to return for warranty , don't wait, call your Hobby Shop or get in contact with Kyosho directly and send them pictures and description of what happened!
If the ESC is not water proof, usually is bad news, the lipo battery is 50/50 at best, some people put it in a bag of rice and let the rice absorb the moisture, I did that one time and took two weeks! After that the battery was not great, it discharges fast and does not hold back the same mahs.
This is clearly a quality issue, If i were you, I will be quick about getting in touch with Kyosho.

[waterproof]

Hi.

Its looks like the esc is waterproof but it not stands that on kyosho site.
The reciever and servo is inside a water resistant box. But the motor and esc pluss the battery is placed as normal.
I could say its taking in maby a Coke can of water 333cl.

The screews that fall off is two of the four screews that is mounted in the blue aluminium part behind the boat that hold up the flex shaft and prop, i dont know what that part means in english sorry.

[tlandauer]

That blue part is the stinger.
This is unfortunate, however, with RTR boats, it is a good idea to thoroughly go thru every place before running the boat. There is always possibilities that any of the attaching points for hardware can leak water.
The usual advice for a servo that has been under water is to take the servo case apart and spray CorrosionX: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hp?prod=corr-x liberally on all the inner gears.
Do the same on the receiver.
Did anywater get into the sealed box?

[waterproof]

Not much water inside the sealed box, only a few drops.
Yes i understand, i greased the flex and put locktight on the screews and fasten everything except the string..
If i keep this boat then i will use locktight on every screew on the hull.
I could make a tread later with pics and a video of the boat later :-)

Its a empty plug on the hull to gets water out so the manufacture is prepered to get water inside the hull but i cannot understand that is safe when a electro motor and esc plus the battery connection and battery gets wet. They should seal everything and not just the servo and reciever but its not easy to do i think.

[tlandauer]

There is no practical way to seal the battery and motor in a separate compartment. Usually motors will survive a soaking, but i forgot to say that you should rinse out the motor with fresh water and spray the CorrosionX or if you don't have it, get some WD-40. Spray lots into the inside of your motor. The magnates can rust and will ruin the motor if not taken care of.
Locktite is good to stop the screws from turning loose, but it is not 100% water proof ( its purpose is not a sealent) , people use plumbers putty to seal the holes , then put hardware on and screw in the screws, I use silicone sealent but that is difficult to get off the hull if you want to paint later , also if you get that inside the hull, it is hard to remove if you need to epoxy something later, glue will not cure correctly if there is traces of silicone. ( I use it since I have managed not to make a mess of it and I know i will not be painting )
I spend alot of time before Maiden run to seal the boat, then I put the hull in a tub or pool for 10 min. to see if there is any leaks.
The plug the manufacturer provided is not to empty out water, it is for your convenience should there be some water ( unavoidable, by the way).
Hope everything works out for you, keep us posted and photos/videos are always desired.

[waterproof]

Yes i will post pics and videos after i came home and have fix the leaks.
Today i got two screews and i check every screews on the boat and tight all screews.
After 13min runtime today the boat still got to much water inside.
I guess it was 2dl/200cl/little bit under a half coke cane.
Have you no idea what i must check?

I have wd 40 crc, should i just spray every places into the motor without open it and not screew it out of the hull? Its real small room around the motor and it placed after the small hatch so its not easy to get.
What do you think of the other components like esc and battery with battery connection? Do you think the deans with water on and power cold destroy anything or have it nothing to say because its fresh water? I cannot understand that part, the connections is wet and lead power to the esc and it still works.

[iop65]

yes that's because it's fresh water , it hardly conducts electricity

[waterproof]

Here is some pics of the boat.
The color is more strong in real, the Orange at the front is all Orange and not weakorange.

I also got a "New issue" the float sylinders is loose and it have been into the front of the motor and the motor have been like a knife to the plastic floating sylinders, it making dust of it so its small plastic dust all over inside the hull, i have clean it up but the motor and hull was almost white at some Places.
Do you think the motor could taking damage of this? i dont know if it blows out air or the particle have come inside the motor.
Look at the last pichture to see the issue i have been trough today.

The boat dosent flip over by himselv eighter With 396g battery. I think i must add just a littlebit more weight to the left side of the hull.20130813_174807_resized.jpg20130813_171937_resized.jpg20130813_171947_resized.jpg20130813_171959_resized.jpg20130813_172024_resized.jpg

[waterproof]

20130813_172129_resized.jpg Here is that i talking about that the motor cuts up the floating sylinders, it looked like i got snow inside the hull after this run

[tlandauer]

Push back the floatation and use ShoeGoo to glue them down. This is typical that these floatation foam are loose in the hull. Now, did you check the motor's temperature , if the motor is not over heated due to extra friction of rubbing with these "cylinders", then you are OK!!!
There will be no harm done if you see powder of the foam, I don't think it will get into the motor because the motor is spinning high RPM and nothing can get in!!
Lububricate your motor well! You should take the motor down and put oil into the bearings as well, since it was soaked in water.
Always check temperature, on an OUT RUNNER motor, the temperature can be higher than an IN RUNNER motor, that is OK.
I had one incident that ruined my motor: the silicone water lines got tangled up with the motor, and the friction burned the motor, I was doing full speed runs until the motor stopped, when I opened the hatch, there was full smoke from the rubbing heat! I replaced the motor and made sure the lines are not too loose and can.t bounce up and down, looking at your picture I don't see a problem, but do be careful!

[waterproof]

Hey, now I have removed the motor and dried it with a microfiber cloth and get off all the dust, where should i spray the oil on the engine? inside crevices where it is open? Or it must be opened to get to?

I add a couple of pictures so you can maybe explain where to lubricant up with crc wd 40 :)

Today I glued all the screws from inside and around the screws so nothing should take in water, later today i will put it in a bath after it has dried and see if it takes the water from some of the screws20130814_122632_resized.jpg20130814_122643_resized.jpg20130814_123106_resized.jpg

[tlandauer]

Why is there so much lint? or is that the melted plastic?
OK, Spray WD-40 into the openings ( inside crevives where it is open,no need to open the motor) of the motor, get between the magnets and the windings of copper wires but mainly the magnets. Just to purge the water. I think after this you should get some CorrosionX for later maintenance, that stuff is wonderful and thicker so it will "coat" the parts for much better protection. For now, you are good to go.
Remove the blue coupler/collet, put a few drops of heavier bearing oil on the bearing, do the same to the back one . I use normal automotive oil such as 10w-30 for that. WD-40 is a bit too thin.

[waterproof]

Yes, im going to look for corrosion x and order it.
How often should the motor be oiled? Just add some oil if it have been soaked in water?

Tomorrow i going to do a test after all screws are glued inside the hull with a power glue from locktight, today i got a t spon of water inside but i think that is normal?
But i see the gasket under the hatch is wet at the front where it is curved in shape and it's a bit hard and then tape the surfaces of the front of the hatch is arranged so that the back and sides of the Hatch is flat and its no sign to leaks there, only the front oval side of the Hatch.

As long as it does not tip on the roof, it seems like it only takes a t spon of water, is it a tape that lend themselves better than a electrician tape and tape the hatch where the surfaces are not straight? or another product to get the hatch completely blocked from water?

[tlandauer]

I don't know how the hatch is shaped, I use electric tape to tape the entire hatch, my boats have flipped many times, and because i tape well, there is usually not a drop of water inside. You have some water and that is normal, sometimes the water comes up on the stuffing tube ( between the blue coupler/collet and the cable, ) that is OK as long as not too much. One trick is to put a short piece of silicone tube ( the same as your water cooling hose) over that place---unfortunately I am out of the country and can't give you a picture, you should do a search and see what I mean.
Back to the tape: Your boat is beautifully painted, no matter which kind of tape you use ( electric or so called hatch tape), after several times the tape will lift the paint. Don't get too up set. Taping is very necessary and you should tape the entire hatch---I know i said it earlier, if it is curved, cut short pieces and tape according to curve, you don't need to force the tape to conform to the shape too much, just make sure the tape is flat and does not peel after you lay it down on the hatch and the deck.
I put oil in the bearings almost after every run, if you have soaked the motor, then you need to spray into the motor, other wise it is not necessay.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...431-Hatch-tape