Props for my Genesis to go 100 kmh+

[Cpt. Joe]

Okay,
thank you very much for your posts! Now i have a lot of qualified inputs for my project.

My summary:
- no new prop is needed, money saved
- props have to be detounged
- strut has to be raised, that means also i have to set the rudder offset, otherwise the props will touch the rudder holder
- back of the rudder has to be flattend: maybe i can put epoxy on it and filing it flat, i will see
- maybe i have to set the COG new

A lot to do, go ahead Cpt. Joe!!!! But that makes our hobby a real hobby.

Again, thank you all for your help!

I will be back! With new questions, and/or the result.

Cheers
Cpt. Joe

[Cpt. Joe]

Okay,
thank you very much for your posts! Now i have a lot of qualified inputs for my project.

My summary:
- no new prop is needed, money saved
- props have to be detounged
- strut has to be raised, that means also i have to set the rudder offset, otherwise the props will touch the rudder holder
- back of the rudder has to be flattend: maybe i can put epoxy on it and filing it flat, i will see
- maybe i have to set the COG new

A lot to do, go ahead Cpt. Joe!!!! But that makes our hobby a real hobby.

Again, thank you all for your help!

I will be back! With new questions, and/or the result.

Cheers
Cpt. Joe

[Chilli]

I hate to pile on but on but try to sharpen the rudder blade a little better. I don't know if it's the picture but it took like a chisel tip.

The good new is you have allot of free speed and you are learning. It's just going to take a little sweat. A mph here and two mph there add up. Looking forward to the results!

[Cpt. Joe]

Optimizations dones, so far.

Hello,

I am back again. Want to show my results concerning your tips and recommendations.

What I have done:
- raised the strut 4mm parallel to waterline
Foto-02.06c.jpg
- removed the additional rudder water pickup, sharpened and "polished" the rudder
- offset the rudder, because with the raise of the strut my Prather 230 didn't fit in line with the rudder
Foto-02.jpg
- changed the servo rod to carbon
- secound water pickup is placed behind the prop now
Foto-02.06.jpg
Foto-02.06b.jpg

Can you see any faults or mistakes i produced with my "optimizations"?
I am open for you thoughts and inputs.
Thanks in advannce.

Cheers
Cpt. Joe

[TristanJones]

I didnt have any luck with that drive dog, otherwise it looks ok to me.

[Mike Caruso]

Hello,

I am back again. Want to show my results concerning your tips and recommendations.

What I have done:
- raised the strut 4mm parallel to waterline
[ATTACH=CONFIG]99937[/ATTACH]
- removed the additional rudder water pickup, sharpened and "polished" the rudder
- offset the rudder, because with the raise of the strut my Prather 230 didn't fit in line with the rudder
[ATTACH=CONFIG]99935[/ATTACH]
- changed the servo rod to carbon
- secound water pickup is placed behind the prop now
[ATTACH=CONFIG]99936[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]99938[/ATTACH]

Can you see any faults or mistakes i produced with my "optimizations"?
I am open for you thoughts and inputs.
Thanks in advannce.

Cheers
Cpt. Joe

Hi Cpt. Joe,

Nice work try using a wider flat file smooth cross or double cut type file to make the sides of the rudder true. If no file use a smooth flat surface and sand paper work slow until you get both sides are very flat. From the pictures it looks egg shaped not flat. Keeping it fun that's my plan also.

Happy boating.

[Fluid]

Hello, I am back again. Want to show my results concerning your tips and recommendations...

Photo #1: Looks better, start there. You may need to go higher due to the sponson deadrise, if so cut off the corner of the strut bracket for prop clearance.
Photo #2: I'm not a fan of propwash water pickups because of the extra drag and the frothy water they supply, but yours looks good.
Photo #3: There needs to be a gap the width of the flex cable between the drive dog and the strut.
Photo #4: Lose the silly prop nut and get a real lock nut like these: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-8135



.

[Cpt. Joe]

Hello Fuid,
sorry, but i don't understand your comment on photo #3, my english is not so good:
does it mean, the drivedog don't has to be so close to the strut? There has to be a gap of mm? Do you have a picture for better understanding for me?
Thanks in advance.
Cpt. Joe

[Cpt. Joe]

Hello Tristan Jones,
what's your recommandation for a better drivedog?
Thanks in advance.
Cpt. Joe

[Cpt. Joe]

Hello Fluid,
Photo #2: I am also not a fan of propwash water pickup.
I have a 2 line cooling system installed (motor, esc).
I wish to have a dual water pickup rudder but the only one i found that fits a genesis is from rc boat bitz. But shipping costs of a rudder for $20 of $23 is a way to much for me, so decided to make this pickup till I have a better solution.
Tips where i can get a dual rudder pickup maybe to convert it to fit the genesis are welcome.

Cheers
Cpt. Joe

[Fluid]

...does it mean, the drivedog don't has to be so close to the strut? There has to be a gap of mm?....

Yes, there needs to be a gap of about 4mm between the drive dog and the strut. When the flex cable is under load is shortens, so without the gap there is lots of friction.

Tips where i can get a dual rudder pickup maybe to convert it to fit the genesis are welcome.

Some can be found here:http://www.rossisales.com/ruddernew2.html
But really, you don't need two pickups. So little heat is removed from the ESC that a line running through the ESC and then to the motor is about as efficient.



.

[martin]

Photo #1: Looks better, start there. You may need to go higher due to the sponson deadrise, if so cut off the corner of the strut bracket for prop clearance.
Photo #2: I'm not a fan of propwash water pickups because of the extra drag and the frothy water they supply, but yours looks good.
Photo #3: There needs to be a gap the width of the flex cable between the drive dog and the strut.
Photo #4: Lose the silly prop nut and get a real lock nut like these: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-8135



.

Fluid re prop pick ups with more drag, does the type i believe you have used yourself where the brass tube comes out of the transom on the left side looking from the rear & the tube is bent 180degrees. So their is not so much interfering with the water leaving the prop, or is this type of pick up just as bad as the ones positioned dirctly above the prop. Thanks Martin.

[Fluid]

Fluid re prop pick ups with more drag, does the type i believe you have used yourself where the brass tube comes out of the transom on the left side looking from the rear & the tube is bent 180degrees. So their is not so much interfering with the water leaving the prop, or is this type of pick up just as bad as the ones positioned dirctly above the prop. Thanks Martin.

Any water pickup causes drag. The worst are the ones which stick down well below the bottom of the hull in the water. Perhaps just as bad is the prop wash type; many think this causes no drag at all, but they are very wrong. The water hitting such a pickup is traveling considerably faster than the boat is traveling, so it is hitting the pickup with more force and slowing the boat.

Another big problem with the prop wash pickup is that the water it catches is not all water - it is full of air, which does not cool efficiently at all. So you have more drag and less cooling, overall a bad thing. I used them years ago when we did not have rudders with pickups, but I have not done so for over a decade. Rudder pickups cause the least drag and supply the most efficient water flow. Pickups mounted flush with the hull bottom work about as well, but they have to be placed where they will always receiver water. Mounted too far forward they will starve for water as the boat airs out.



.

[ozzie-crawl]

I think the op has set the flex up the same as when it had the 4mm drive were the dog (teflon washer) push against the strut, hence the no gap.
Maybe some body could post a picture as i dont have one on my phone.
Could this be the main reason for low speeds and heat ??? To me it would seem this would be locking the drive system up and not allowing full rpm while adding a lot of load on the motor.