HV CC Cap Pack

[Mulisha]

Does anyone use the castle hv cap pack cc cap pack.jpg and if so what set ups would start to need them? Any pics of them installed be helpful

Thnks

[tlandauer]

I have a F1 Tunnel, the motor is UL-1 2030kv, Seaking 120 ESC, running 4s, 5000mah/40C , I was experiencing temp @ 160*F at the two caps on the ESC, after installing this, the highest reading of temp is at 140*F. It is really easy to install and I plan to retro fit many of my boats. I have used other (Etti cap Banks), but I like this for its compactness.DSCN3333_3535.jpgDSCN3335_3537.jpg
Hope this helps.

[Mulisha]

Are they just added into the esc wires do they pop before the esc or can still blow both up?

[tlandauer]

Are they just added into the esc wires do they pop before the esc or can still blow both up?

???
I don't quite understand? Ah, Ok, I think I know what you mean, as you can see, you need to strip out about 1/4 of an inch insulation from the " +" and" -" wires of the ESC, solder the two posts on the Cap Pack to the stripped area. As far as how the sequence of destruction unfolds, I have no first hand experience! They lower the temp, because Cap Pack helps to dampen the so-called ripple voltage. It reduces the work load on the two stock caps that come with the ESC. On the Seaking 180 I have installed these versions where real estate was not critical: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=etti-e035-lv http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-e041. It is really helpful, I don't run my ESC w/o external cap packs any more.
Here was what I had to ask and some very good advices:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ffect-ESC-temp

[Mulisha]

Thanks that other link was good I will be getting a few for my boats. With install you solder them straight to the esc wire not like the new t180 that has cap bank but run wires to them?

[tlandauer]

Thanks that other link was good I will be getting a few for my boats. With install you solder them straight to the esc wire not like the new t180 that has cap bank but run wires to them?

You can do it either way, the closer to the ESC , the better. In general, I prefer direct solder the the ESc wires, but I have run separate wires ( although much thicker then the thin wires the SK 180 uses) and soldered them on the UNDER SIDE of the 180 ESC wires terminal, beware that it is hard to do that because the underside has factory solder and it is a high melting point kind, it takes alot of patience to form a good solder joint that way. You don't want to heat it up too much to damage/desolder the powere wires on top of it, but not enough heat= bad solder.
I have also ran separate wires and joined them along with the ESC's power wires , I will post pictures later.

[Chilli]

FWIW- I use quality packs, appropriate sized bullets and keep my wires as short as possible. And I don't run extra caps on any of my boats (from P-Limiteds to SAW trials boats). The last controller I blew was about four years ago and that was because I was a dummy and ran it after it got wet. If your ripple current is causing your caps to get hot, look for ways to reduce it. Then you can consider adding caps for added protection if you wish.

[tlandauer]

FWIW- I use quality packs, appropriate sized bullets and keep my wires as short as possible. And I don't run extra caps on any of my boats (from P-Limiteds to SAW trials boats). The last controller I blew was about four years ago and that was because I was a dummy and ran it after it got wet. If your ripple current is causing your caps to get hot, look for ways to reduce it. Then you can consider adding caps for added protection if you wish.

in my case there was no way to shorten the wires in the Tunnel, and actually the temp was lower than 140* F as I said in the post, that reading was not indicative of how much the extra cap pack was able to lower because the water cooler jacket had a blocked nipple.
Anyway, you are right, short wires are the way to go!

[Mulisha]

Yeah some times you can't do anything about the wire lengths. I think I will get some and see how they go. Thanks heaps

[tlandauer]

Here are the pictures: I spliced the power wires and joined the Cap bank . DSCN2974_2434.jpgDSCN2986_2446.jpg
This one has two wires that are soldered to the underside of the SeaKing 180 ESC:DSCN3401_3602.jpg

[Mulisha]

Looks good what about waterproofing them especially being in f1 tunnel?

[tlandauer]

The SeaKing 120 that came with the AQ VS1 Tunnel had liquid tape on it, but that was the one that got hot and bulged the two stock caps, I replaced a new one without adding anything to ''water proof" it. I didn't think I could to a complete job by just adding liquid tape. And if it is not sealed 100%, any moisture that is trapped inside would not evaporate , in the long run it is just as troublesome. IMO. That said, this FE was built by mtbenjamin77, his take on the radio and battery compartment survived the ultimate test: I lost signal and had my finger pulling ( w/o realizing) full throttle when the radio regained contact, needless to say the Tunnel pulled a wheelie on me, landed upside down and was in the water for 45 min., after retrieving the boat, I was amazed to find NOT a drop of water inside. Of course I taped it really well.
Anyway, I like conformal epoxy for water proofing---if there is such a foolproof way. But I haven't the material nor the know how. One of my Seaking180 has survived complete submersion in water as well, they are supposed to be water resistant but again, depending how well the factory worker has sealed the plastic case.

[Mulisha]

Never used conformal epoxy, I like the swordfish esc with both ends open you can just run liquid tape through it. Making sure you tape the hatch well is the safer way